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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 09:14 AM
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Default Lifter tick

Just recently I've noticed a rather pronounced ticking that would seem to be coming from my lifters...excuse my ignorance, but how serious is this? Will I just need to set the valve lash and be on my way? I didn't think the car was running a solid lifter set-up, but I suppose I didn't have any evidence one way or the other...
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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 09:19 AM
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you can reset it and then keep an eye on it. Might never have been right, but could also be a lifter spring getting weak/pumping down.
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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 10:31 AM
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Before you go after the lifter noise check to see it isn't just an slight exhaust leak where the header meets the heads. I've been caught on this a few times. The leak can make such an annoying metallic sound and all you have to do to fix is is tighten a header bolt or replace the header gasket. A length of heater hose material held up to your ear while it's running may be able to define the problem.
just a thought 75ZZ4
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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 72Tornado
Just recently I've noticed a rather pronounced ticking that would seem to be coming from my lifters...excuse my ignorance, but how serious is this? Will I just need to set the valve lash and be on my way? I didn't think the car was running a solid lifter set-up, but I suppose I didn't have any evidence one way or the other...
Any recent work/changes in that area (ie. replaced valve covers)?
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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by TedH
Any recent work/changes in that area (ie. replaced valve covers)?
Nah, nothing like that. The only thing that's been done recently is some timing work...
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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 11:50 AM
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The fuel pump can give you a noise identical to a noisy lifter. Try and locate the source of the noise. What I thought was a noisy lifter on my 68 turned out to be the fuel pump.
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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 12:00 PM
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Definetly check the header gaskets first. I have gotten bitten by that once thinking it was a lifter. If its not gaskets, just pull the valve cover and set the valves with it running. Maybe one of your lock nuts is loosening up and losing adjustment on the rocker arm. Its no biggie.

What did you decide to do about your motor or motor work?
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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 12:00 PM
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Use a long screw driver or wood dowel and with engine idling,listen to your valve covers first...you can quickly isolate source of noise...
Rich
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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 01:16 PM
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Thanks a lot for all the suggestions guys! I'll probably try the rubber hose method first, will definitely check it out tonight

Originally Posted by ajrothm
What did you decide to do about your motor or motor work?
I'm 99.9% sure I'm going to get a 383 built from T&L. I read the comments on the shop and their work in the other thread, which only made me feel better. I'll probably go with the hyd roller...425+hp for $4000 is definitely a great deal. I'll be ordering the engine in a couple months and can hardly wait!
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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 02:13 PM
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Isn't their 383 only $3600? 425hp is not bad for $4000, especially if thats breaking in and dyno tuning YOUR engine. Or you can get a ZZ383 from GM for $4800 but thats no dynoing or tuning etc. Is that carb to pan for $4k?
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Old Jul 24, 2006 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ajrothm
Isn't their 383 only $3600? 425hp is not bad for $4000, especially if thats breaking in and dyno tuning YOUR engine. Or you can get a ZZ383 from GM for $4800 but thats no dynoing or tuning etc. Is that carb to pan for $4k?
Yeah, the 383 starts at just under $3600 but the hyd roller option brings it up to a little under $4000. The carb isn't included, but if I send it to them they'll tune it to the engine for free
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