Front coils Help!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 423
Likes: 3
From: New Port Richey, FL
Front coils Help!
I'm trying to remove my front coil springs on my
76. I bought two pickle forks from Harbor Freight and tried to use them to separate the ball joints from the spindle housing. I pounded them in all the way(about a half inch gap), and the spring still won't bust loose. I don't have an air compressor or impact tools , which makes this a very tough job for sure. Any suggestions please?
76. I bought two pickle forks from Harbor Freight and tried to use them to separate the ball joints from the spindle housing. I pounded them in all the way(about a half inch gap), and the spring still won't bust loose. I don't have an air compressor or impact tools , which makes this a very tough job for sure. Any suggestions please?
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,461
Likes: 2
From: Allen TX
You are going to have to remove the spindle totally to remove the spring. The easiest tool I have found to get the ball joints out of the spindle is one of these separators.
Make sure you have the bottom arm supported by a jack because once those ball joints let loose the spring will want to pop out. Then you can slowly lower the jack until there is no tension left on the spring.
Make sure you have the bottom arm supported by a jack because once those ball joints let loose the spring will want to pop out. Then you can slowly lower the jack until there is no tension left on the spring.
Racer
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 450
Likes: 0
From: Alexandria Va
Here's what I did. I put a floor jack under the spindle and lifted it, the spindle, about one inch from where it naturally hangs. Then I whacked the spindle where it connects to the upper A-Arm. You need to hit it where the A-Arm slides into to spindle. The A-Arm popped loose and then I lowered the jack until the spring fell out. I also chained the spring in case it popped out.
Oh yeah, make sure all cotter pins are out and castle nuts are loosened but not off. This will keep the A-Arm from completely separating.
Hope this helps.
Oh yeah, make sure all cotter pins are out and castle nuts are loosened but not off. This will keep the A-Arm from completely separating.
Hope this helps.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 10,362
Likes: 5
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Pickle fork won't do it. Use a good sized hammer and hit the spindle where the BJ goes through it. This temporarily elongates (makes it eggshaped) the hole and forces the joint out of the tapered opening.
Leave the nut on the joint, just loosen it. Leave the floor jack under the spring so there's tension on the BJ. Smack it hard and it will pop loose. *****BE SURE YOU HAVE A FEW THREADS ON THE NUT ***** to cover your butt.
Leave the nut on the joint, just loosen it. Leave the floor jack under the spring so there's tension on the BJ. Smack it hard and it will pop loose. *****BE SURE YOU HAVE A FEW THREADS ON THE NUT ***** to cover your butt.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 423
Likes: 3
From: New Port Richey, FL
Originally Posted by chris75stingray
you could use a spring compressor
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Livermore California
Originally Posted by brian76
Chris75, I bought a spring compressor today, but didn't think of using it! I was going to use it to install the new springs only. So what you're saying is to compress the old springs to the point that they'll just come out without pounding the ball joints loose?
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Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Originally Posted by SanDiegoPaul
Pickle fork won't do it. Use a good sized hammer and hit the spindle where the BJ goes through it. This temporarily elongates (makes it eggshaped) the hole and forces the joint out of the tapered opening.
Leave the nut on the joint, just loosen it. Leave the floor jack under the spring so there's tension on the BJ. Smack it hard and it will pop loose. *****BE SURE YOU HAVE A FEW THREADS ON THE NUT ***** to cover your butt.
Leave the nut on the joint, just loosen it. Leave the floor jack under the spring so there's tension on the BJ. Smack it hard and it will pop loose. *****BE SURE YOU HAVE A FEW THREADS ON THE NUT ***** to cover your butt.
They usially pop right apart, but you have to hit it HARD with a BFH.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 147
Likes: 0
From: Lafayette IN
I used a pickle fork and 4lb sledge and just whacked on em til they came loose.
And you don't need a spring compressor, at least I didn't on my SB '79. A floor jack and a bit of muscle will do the trick on installation.
And you don't need a spring compressor, at least I didn't on my SB '79. A floor jack and a bit of muscle will do the trick on installation.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Why spend all that time and energy whacking when this little $19 gadget from JC Whitney will pop them loose in about 30 seconds with almost no effort (it's the one on the left)?
My "pickle fork" bottomed out on the stud before the joints came apart, anyway.
My "pickle fork" bottomed out on the stud before the joints came apart, anyway.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Most spring compressors don't fit very well, I built my own :
It's about $15 at HomeDepot, just get the better quality allthread. I got the cheap stuff, it works but grade 5 or 8 material would be safer.
It mounts thru the hole that the shock mounts to.... when you lower the control arm the spring remains compressed and then you release the tension by loosening the nut on the allthread...
It's about $15 at HomeDepot, just get the better quality allthread. I got the cheap stuff, it works but grade 5 or 8 material would be safer.
It mounts thru the hole that the shock mounts to.... when you lower the control arm the spring remains compressed and then you release the tension by loosening the nut on the allthread...
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 423
Likes: 3
From: New Port Richey, FL
Originally Posted by I'm Batman
Why spend all that time and energy whacking when this little $19 gadget from JC Whitney will pop them loose in about 30 seconds with almost no effort (it's the one on the left)?
My "pickle fork" bottomed out on the stud before the joints came apart, anyway.
My "pickle fork" bottomed out on the stud before the joints came apart, anyway.
Racer
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 445
Likes: 1
I recently replaced my front coils and didn't remove the BG's. We attached a spring compressor, unbolted the lower control arm from the frame and swung it out of the way and removed the spring. With the #550 coils I put in we did not even need the compressor. Used a floor jack to get the control arms back into position and bolted them up.
7th Gear
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Honolulu Hawaii
Following the Haynes Manual, I just changed my front springs by removing the shocks, disconnecting the sway bar, compressing the spring, and unbolting the lower dogbone (pivot cross shaft). The compressed spring came out easily. I compressed the new one and stuck it in place and bolted up the dogbone.
After removing the shocks and the sway bar, it take only about 1/2-3/4hour for each spring.
You need one of the spring compressors that installs inside of the coil spring. Ecklers and the other websites sell it. I borrowed a Snap-on spring compressor from a Mechanic. The Snap-on spring compressor costs about $189, but is well designed and easy to use.
After removing the shocks and the sway bar, it take only about 1/2-3/4hour for each spring.
You need one of the spring compressors that installs inside of the coil spring. Ecklers and the other websites sell it. I borrowed a Snap-on spring compressor from a Mechanic. The Snap-on spring compressor costs about $189, but is well designed and easy to use.