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Coating Inside of Frame Question

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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 08:16 PM
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Default Coating Inside of Frame Question

The Frame (1969) has already need acid dipped and I'm planning on picking it up from the powdercoater's this saturday. My question is... Is there anything I can/should do to the inside of the frame to protect it from rusting. If so what do you use and how do you apply it?

Thanks in advance,
Carl
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 08:27 PM
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whatever paint/coating you can get inside is a good thing. Forget about foams, they hold moisture
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 09:19 PM
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Eastwood sells this kit. I've been meaning to do this for a while but haven't gotten to it. A co-worker of mine used it and said it seems like decent stuff.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...ProductID=1119
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 09:23 PM
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I used the eastwood kit ,it is a cheap gun (broke on me) but got it to work ,sprayed por15 on the inside of frame,got most of it covered.
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 11:08 PM
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Thanks for the replies
The eastwood kit looks good in theory but all 4 customer views on the undercoating system state that the gun broke during use. Is there another company who makes a similar but better quality kit?

Last edited by Corvette69w427; Jul 27, 2006 at 11:11 PM.
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Old Jul 27, 2006 | 11:19 PM
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Ziebart makes a bees wax that they spray inside the frame-they also have a "Penetr-Oil" process

Last edited by ...Roger...; Jul 28, 2006 at 08:50 AM.
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Old Jul 28, 2006 | 08:47 AM
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Ok its not bees wax only looks like it.Its their "top side rustproofing" and its amber in color and they use it inside doors and it does not block exit holes.Plus its only $59.95
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Old Jul 28, 2006 | 10:37 PM
  #8  
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Default Long Frame Restoration Explanation

I am working on a bare 76 frame that sat outside in the Florida weather for 6-9 months. All the paint and grease was gone and the frame had what I'd call a coating of surface rust. There were some areas that were slightly pitted. I started by using a 4-inch grinder with a wire wheel and a wire brush on the exterior of the entire frame. Then I got the garden hose out and set the nozzle on "Jet" and scrubbed the exterior of the frame and hosed out the interior as best I could. I was supprised at how much crud came out of the inside of the frame. Used a rubber mallet on it to make sure I had all the loose stuff out of it and hosed it out again.

I bought a Gilmour, 2-gallon, green, plastic, pump up garden spayer at Home Depot or Lowes. I looked at every sprayer they had and bought the one with the longest brass wand on it.

Filled the sprayer with 1/2-3/4 gallon of product called FOZZ. Its a rust remover, rust preventative, and a metal primer. Its the consistancy of water maybe a little thicker. I got it at a place that sells structural steel and it comes in gallon jugs.

Pumped up the pressure on the sprayer and stuck the wand in every hole of the frame as far as I could and in all directions that I could, then pulled the trigger until product came out some other hole. The wand had an adjustable nozzle and I had it set on a wide spray pattern.

I was working on a bare frame, off the car, and I did this with the frame right side up, and again with it upside down. I was working in the driveway and I have a lot of white stains on the concrete where the product dripped out.

Make sure you get into the very rear section of the side rails and the base of the kickups. The rearmost 6-inches or so of the side rails have a baffled compartment that is sectioned off from the rest of the side rail. The only access into this area is from a small hole in the rear plate of the side rail and from the #3 body mount hole. That's the part of the frame that usually goes bad first.

This worked very well and I got complete coverage inside the frame rails and all the cross members.

This product will leave a white residue when it dries so use it before you paint or coat the exterior of the frame. The white residue is not chalky and does not affect painting the exterior of the frame.

The sprayer should work with any product that is relatively thin.

I brushed on the FOZZ followed by 2-coats of Eastwood's Black Rust Encapsulator on the outside of the frame. I thinned the Encapsulator with lacquer thinner as instructed on the can. I could have used the sprayer and coated the inside of the frame with the thinned Rust Encapsulator, but I don't think its necessary. It would probably look better if the exterior was sprayed with a top coat, but it looks decent, its coated inside and out, and I'm calling this good enough. This is not going to be a chromed up show car. This is going to be a nice basic looking rubber bumper C3 with an old school 396 in front of a turbo 400 in front of some 3:70 gears.

I was originally going to use one of those Eastwood undercoating guns like others have discussed, but as soon as I unpacked it, I could tell it was junk. I put it right back in the box. The garden sprayer works well, you don't need an air compressor, its way cheaper, and you can use again if its cleaned out when you're finished with it.

Between the sprayer, the Fozz, the junk undercoating gun, and the Rust Encapsulator I've got maybe $100-$150 invested in it.
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Old Jul 28, 2006 | 10:56 PM
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I used the garden sprayer but just the wond and hand valve. I used a pressure tank used for flushing a/c units. Filled it with POR 15. Thined out about 10% just a word of caution put plenty of cardbord under the frame or the Por 15 will be there for ever on the floor. I am not knocking powdercoat but. I have seen that if it gets scratched and it goes unseen the rust will weep along under the powdercoat and start to peel off. Much like termites you don't know it till the damage is done
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