Well I guess I should have read your link to you engine specs first because you already have the 300HP cam installed. Why don't you just try retarding it 4 degrees to start with and see if that helps you out, if not, it didn't cost you anything except some time.

 

Now that sounds like an educated opinion. So I take it the lower LSA and milder intake spec's would be better for the low compression and automatic, and the higher lift and duration make the exhaust flow mo better? I could understand the theory behind that. So should I retard this cam 4* as well?

 

I suggest they're all opinions ... I sure ain't no "guru" ... and you're getting sound advice & reasonable opinions from more than just my camp ... but you're understanding the "theory" correctly. Theory behind & use of DCR is 100% rock solid ... but in practice, one must first possess valve timing specs for the specific cam/profile ... I sure don't have that info for a whole host of cams ... so, for simple combos I can rely on my experience.

BUT, here're published 0.050" valve timing specs for the Clevite 229-2205:
IO 7* BTC, IC 27* ABC, EO 56* BBC, EC 12* BTC. ICL 100*, ECL 124* ... (ICL+ECL/2 = LSA or LDA) ... here LSA = 112*.

I would install the 3 cam(s) I suggested (for your combo) at the centerline suggested on the cam card that comes with cam. It's probably fair to say more ill-informed cam-pickers choose too much cam than too little. On a street car, too much cam'll make it a dog in routine traffic.

BTW, the summit C&L kit is priced around $70 total. Summit's not cheap on most stuff ... but it's hard to beat price of summit-branded cam kits. Also, you should strongly consider a fresh set of drop-in valve springs ... a $25 set of "Z28" springs will work well. Suggested cam profile likes about 105-110 # on seat & 270-280 # open. An good example of a "Z28 spring" is Elgin P/N RV943X ... star has em for a buck each ... need 16 ... star 1-800-625-9454. G'Luck!

*edit* for comparison:
*250 hp "353" universal motor has 14088839 cam .383/.401 194*/202* 112 LSA
*290 hp "529" motor has 962/L82/L46 cam .450/.460 222*/222* 114 LSA
*summit 1103 cam .442/.465 214*/224* 112 LSA ... and it's $70 for cam w/ lifters.

 

Thanks everybody again for all the info. I'm thinking I might go ahead with the Lunati Voodoo kit. The Summit thing scares me a bit...to sell them that cheap they must be made in China.....I only want to do this once..

I was not originally planning on pulling the heads...but If I can get a bump on CR by changng the gaskets, then as suggested I might as well pull them and change the springs and check and reseat the valves etc...I'm going to go with some roller rockers as well..


Thanks again guy's for all the help...

 

No, they're not made in China or similar ... it's simply good marketing ... they sell them at little profit because they typically fill same order with many other adjunct parts ... those parts at considerably greater margins. Summit cams' quality is as good as any of the name brands ... but with limited selection. However, if you require a voodoo profile ... then you pay for Lunati.

-edit- There's a buncha guys here & thousands at tracks with "forged stroker cranks" ... betcha dollars to donuts that if they paid less than $600 for that new forged stroker crank ... that crank is Asian.

 

The Summit ones are probably made by Melling or another major cam manufacturer. Roller rockers will be a huge waste of money on a 8.5:1 motor. Also remember that GM advertised CR is probably a good 1/2 point above actual. Personally the Lunati will be a big disappointment, with the CR you have to work with. If you want to make some power, I would tear it down and simply R&R the pistons with a set of 2 valve relief Sealed Power Hypers. They weigh almost the same as the stock ones therefore you won't have to rebalance it. They will give you some decent compression to work with.