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Well......while trying to see if I could get enough air pressure into the oil pressure guage to see if it worked (since it show no pressure but It does with a tester gauge), I must have grounded something on the cluster (I believe the amp gauge), and POP. Smoke behind distributor! Looks like I might have lucked out and only the fuse link blew. But now my amp gauge doesn't work. Power to both terminals, but it doesn't move the needle when running, or even off when I turn the lights on. It just stays in the center. It's amazing how much money we can spend just by being stupid!
By the way.....can anything else cause the amp gauge to stop working? Before I order the gauge, I wonder if something else could be causing it not to work. Like I said, full battery powe to both terminals.
My old shop teacher told me never to buy a voltmeter that didnt have a fuse. If you have to replace it try to find one with a fuse; I can't tell you how many times I've popped the fuse from being careless...
From: Wilmington DE, Drive it like you stole it, 68 327 4 speed coupe
Originally Posted by ctrain22
By the way.....can anything else cause the amp gauge to stop working? Before I order the gauge, I wonder if something else could be causing it not to work. Like I said, full battery powe to both terminals.
the ammmeter ( dont start) guage has a wire that runs from the guage to a jumper that ties into you starting/ charging circuit. right here is where your problem is. its a black wire connected to a orange jumper of a heavier guage, that ties into the wiring that runs between your horn relay and your starter. thats the circuit path you need to run down
tim
Last edited by sweethence; Jul 28, 2006 at 09:55 AM.
If you unplug the gauge, you can check it with a vom on high range. If the gauge reads open, you have burned the winding in two. If it reads a short, the gauge is ok.
Is it possible to unplug the gauge and hook up an aftermarket (autogauge/stewart warner) gauge to the plug to test?
Sure...you can also use an ammeter if you have a Volt-Ohm test Meter (VOM) which can measure amps. There won't be much current flowing through those wires...perhaps 500 milliamps at most I think...I haven't actually measured it. The OEM ammeters are calibrated to read an approximate amperage based on the circuit it's connected to. Aftermarket meters may not read exactly like the old one...depending on how they are calibrated, but you should be able to see something on the other meters even if it's just a small needle deflection.
Ammeters are very delicate instruments...if they get a current spike then they are toast, unless they have a built-in fuse as Richieboy pointed out.