halfshaft u joint question
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: port orange fla.
halfshaft u joint question
Could someone tell me what size/type bolt this is ?
wheel bearing went.
and also can the wheel bearing assembly be taken out/ replaced, without taking the T.A. out? --- thanks
wheel bearing went.
and also can the wheel bearing assembly be taken out/ replaced, without taking the T.A. out? --- thanks
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2005
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the bolt takes a 9/16'' wrench, it is fine thread,1/2'' threaded diam.
you will need to take out the trailing arm since there will be the need to press out the old bearing and you will need special tools to re-install the bearings. you can buy the tools or rent them from corvette america I think. The best bet is to remove the trailing arm and take it to a corvette shop to have it set up.
you will need to take out the trailing arm since there will be the need to press out the old bearing and you will need special tools to re-install the bearings. you can buy the tools or rent them from corvette america I think. The best bet is to remove the trailing arm and take it to a corvette shop to have it set up.
Thread Starter
Instructor
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From: port orange fla.
Originally Posted by big_G
The bolt circled is an " inverted torx", size E-10.
the bearing assembly is pressed into the trailing arm? I thought the bearing get pressed into the assembly - witch i will get as a unit.
Last edited by mr mctavish; Jul 31, 2006 at 02:00 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,831
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From: Austin TX
You're correct - the spindle and bearings are contained in the bearing support. That's part of the assembly you can buy. Here are the instructions from Van Steel fro removing the assembly:
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...BearingRemoval
http://www.vansteel.com/index.cfm?fu...BearingRemoval
Pro
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From: Nottingham
Although one of those "inverted torx" type sockets might fit on there, it's actually a 12-point, 1/4 inch socket that you need. I can tell you this for sure, as I've only just finished doing this myself. I'm not sure off the top of my head if the torx bits have 12 points, have a feeling not. You need to do everything you can to avoid rounding these little buggers off, so I'd stick with the 12-point to be honest. Half inch ratchet and a good six inch, (or even longer) extension makes it easy to go at them straight.
The bearing assy is a tight fit in the trailing arm, not helped by 25 years of rust. I did mine on the bench with the T/A off, but they can be seperated from the T/A whilst it's still on the car, if that's what you prefer.
Theo
The bearing assy is a tight fit in the trailing arm, not helped by 25 years of rust. I did mine on the bench with the T/A off, but they can be seperated from the T/A whilst it's still on the car, if that's what you prefer.
Theo
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
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From: Austin TX
You're welcome!
One thing worth mentioning - I'd really soak the four nuts that hold the assembly to the trailing arm. I use PB Blaster. If one of those bolts get messed up it'll be a PITA to replace it on the car. They're pressed into the arm and kinda hard to get to.
One thing worth mentioning - I'd really soak the four nuts that hold the assembly to the trailing arm. I use PB Blaster. If one of those bolts get messed up it'll be a PITA to replace it on the car. They're pressed into the arm and kinda hard to get to.
Thread Starter
Instructor
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From: port orange fla.
I was trying to avoid clamping,jacking and releasing spring. we all know that,and as we all know, 'there is no easy way".
yesterday those u joint bolts stopped me cold. everything I had was a sloppy fit-- so their soaking for today. tomorro is tool hunt day.
Does van steel have a local over the counter store?
My son was driving it at the time, noticed the problem and was able to get it to his boss'es house ---- it's stuck in his driveway. so...... i have to fix soon.
yesterday those u joint bolts stopped me cold. everything I had was a sloppy fit-- so their soaking for today. tomorro is tool hunt day.
Does van steel have a local over the counter store?
My son was driving it at the time, noticed the problem and was able to get it to his boss'es house ---- it's stuck in his driveway. so...... i have to fix soon.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 7,831
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From: Austin TX
Originally Posted by mr mctavish
Does van steel have a local over the counter store?
I'd call and ask for Dan - he's a good guy and active on the forum.
He might be able to send you one and have you send the core later.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Austin Texas
Originally Posted by theoUK
Although one of those "inverted torx" type sockets might fit on there, it's actually a 12-point, 1/4 inch socket that you need. I can tell you this for sure, as I've only just finished doing this myself. I'm not sure off the top of my head if the torx bits have 12 points, have a feeling not. You need to do everything you can to avoid rounding these little buggers off, so I'd stick with the 12-point to be honest. Half inch ratchet and a good six inch, (or even longer) extension makes it easy to go at them straight.
The bearing assy is a tight fit in the trailing arm, not helped by 25 years of rust. I did mine on the bench with the T/A off, but they can be seperated from the T/A whilst it's still on the car, if that's what you prefer.
Theo
The bearing assy is a tight fit in the trailing arm, not helped by 25 years of rust. I did mine on the bench with the T/A off, but they can be seperated from the T/A whilst it's still on the car, if that's what you prefer.
Theo
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 3,547
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From: Carbondale Pa.
Originally Posted by theoUK
Although one of those "inverted torx" type sockets might fit on there, it's actually a 12-point, 1/4 inch socket that you need. I can tell you this for sure, as I've only just finished doing this myself. I'm not sure off the top of my head if the torx bits have 12 points, have a feeling not. You need to do everything you can to avoid rounding these little buggers off, so I'd stick with the 12-point to be honest. Half inch ratchet and a good six inch, (or even longer) extension makes it easy to go at them straight.
The bearing assy is a tight fit in the trailing arm, not helped by 25 years of rust. I did mine on the bench with the T/A off, but they can be seperated from the T/A whilst it's still on the car, if that's what you prefer.
Theo
The bearing assy is a tight fit in the trailing arm, not helped by 25 years of rust. I did mine on the bench with the T/A off, but they can be seperated from the T/A whilst it's still on the car, if that's what you prefer.
Theo
Pro
Joined: May 2003
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From: Nottingham
As someone else confirmed above, the 12 point 1/4 inch bolts are the stock ones, they came in at some point after the swap from U-bolts to straps as the UJ holding method. But it's totally feasible that someone's put torx bolts in after the fact. I guess you just need to make totally sure you're using the right one of those two socket options, because the last thing you want to do is round them off!
Good luck with it.
Good luck with it.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
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From: Connecticut
So THATS what causes the rear wheels to go out of whack!
I always wondered what caused this problem.
That has to make a hell of a racket.
For ages there was a white Stingray around my area with both rear wheels doing just what yours is doing
I used to see it almost daily
It was almost as ratty as the woman that drove it..drove it year round too, snow rain ect.
I do remember the LS-4 tag on the hood so it had to be a 1974....no chrome
Sure wish I could run into her again as that would be a great parts car............ hmm.... havnt seen her or the car in a few months
I always wondered what caused this problem.
That has to make a hell of a racket.
For ages there was a white Stingray around my area with both rear wheels doing just what yours is doing
I used to see it almost daily
It was almost as ratty as the woman that drove it..drove it year round too, snow rain ect.
I do remember the LS-4 tag on the hood so it had to be a 1974....no chrome
Sure wish I could run into her again as that would be a great parts car............ hmm.... havnt seen her or the car in a few months
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 176
Likes: 1
From: port orange fla.
Originally Posted by Bob Onit
So THATS what causes the rear wheels to go out of whack!
I always wondered what caused this problem.
That has to make a hell of a racket.
For ages there was a white Stingray around my area with both rear wheels doing just what yours is doing
I used to see it almost daily
It was almost as ratty as the woman that drove it..drove it year round too, snow rain ect.
I do remember the LS-4 tag on the hood so it had to be a 1974....no chrome
Sure wish I could run into her again as that would be a great parts car............ hmm.... havnt seen her or the car in a few months
I always wondered what caused this problem.
That has to make a hell of a racket.
For ages there was a white Stingray around my area with both rear wheels doing just what yours is doing
I used to see it almost daily
It was almost as ratty as the woman that drove it..drove it year round too, snow rain ect.
I do remember the LS-4 tag on the hood so it had to be a 1974....no chrome
Sure wish I could run into her again as that would be a great parts car............ hmm.... havnt seen her or the car in a few months
I thought I had heard the swissshing sound of a scraping bearing just once, over the sound of the flowmasters and the tops being off. but i din,t hear anything wrong after that. It went quick. The right side went 2 years ago..... I had it done at a shop and said go ahead and do both sides.. mech said nah... the right side looks good it should last for years.. he was very buesy at the time.
