Barry has a great sticky write up on timing, but it makes everything so confusing, especially to newbies.

Please, anyone correct me if I'm wrong, as I'm still learning myself, but...

Timing 101 for Dummies (like me):

1.) Buy a good dial back timing light.

2.) Make sure you hook it up properly with it on the number 1 plug wire.

3.) Loosen the distributor bolt, but don't move the distrib.

4.) Crank her up.

5.) Unhook vacuum from carb, and plug both the carb, and the vac line.

6.) Adjust rpm idle up if it tries to die on you.

7.) Take a timing reading at idle, and adjust to around 12* at idle by moving the distributor. If it tries to die on you, you are going the wrong direction. (Set the dial back timing light on 0, aim at the balancer/timing tab, and slowly turn the **** until the balancer 0 lines up with the tab 0, and read what you have for the initial timing).

8.) Once you have the initial set at 12*, rev the engine up to 3000 rpm and see what reading you have. If it reads over 36*, then turn the distrib. until it will not go over 36* at any rpm, but you want it to come in before reaching 3000 if possible. (To check the 36* timing, set the dial back on 0, get a buddy to bring the rpm's up to 3000, and start turning the dial until the 0's line up, and read the light. Or, if you have a timing light that shows rpm, I like to set the light on 36*, rev the engine up until until the 0's line up, then hold it at this point, and read the rpms to see where this is occuring. You may have to do this numerous times with small adjustments to the distrib. each time)

9.) Tighten down the distrib. bolt, and replace the vac. line. Your idle may raise up quite a bit now, so adjust it back down between 750-850 rpm at idle.

That's the basics.......now if you can't get the timing to come ALL in just before 3000 rpm, and say it's up around 3500 rpm......

1.) Change out your springs (they are probably to stiff) to the next smallest size you have.
2.) Rev. the engine up and see if you now have all in before 3000 rpm. If not go to the next smaller spring size.
3.) Rev it past 3000 rpm a few times to make sure it's not advancing beyond 36* or you will likely suffer engine damage.
4.)If you still are not able to get all in 36* before 3000 rpm while try all the spring you have, you may want to retard the timing, until you can find a happy place that your car runs the best.

Other case....Let's say you timing of 36* is coming all in around 2400 rpm. Now in this case we want to only try a spring change, without moving the distrib. timing, if possible.

1.) First change the springs to stiffer/heavier spring.
2.) Rev her up and read the light to see where, and if you still have a full 36*'s coming in before 3000 rpm. If you do, and it's around 2800, leave it alone, and tighten everything up, then go drink a beer.

NOTE 1:***YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE TO MOVE THE DISTRIBUTOR WHILE MAKING THE SPRING CHANGES. THE SPRING CHANGES ONLY AFFECT THE TIMING CURVE, NOT THE ACTUAL TIMING. You may have to move the distributor by retarding the timing, if you are having problems getting all 36* before 3000 rpm, if the heaviest springs don't allow it to come in before 3000 rpm.

NOTE 2:***Not all older engines can take the advanced timing without resulting in other problems. Your car may run worse because of low compression, low horsepower, or it's just plain wore out. In those cases, you probably want to be a bit conservative with your initial timing, and just leave it at that. You may also experience overheating from running advanced timing. Your carb may need to be rejetted and the circuits changed to adapt for the higher timing. An example of this is stumbles at WOT where your carb is not letting enough gas in to account for the increased timing change. In these cases, if you don't want to mess with the carb, then just retard the timing until this is resolved, and this is where you run it.

Please be very careful on your test drive, and listen closely for pinging and detonation. Some engines take the advanced timing well, and others don't. You may have to reduce your timing, to get it to run well, and others may be able to run 38*.

 

Gosh-I didnt think you were ever going to get to the beer part!

 

I had to have one just reading it

sounds like you got it

 

Clear, concise, accurate and BRIEF.

Very well done!

 

Nice write up! Mine comply's! Refreshments all around.

 

You know, it takes a while to sink in. I don't think anyone should ever mention the word springs, until someone learns how to get there timing adjusted first, where the can get all in 36* before 3000 rpm.

 

geez, the entire idea on mine was to make it EASY to understand for newbies plus complete so they understod the reason why they were taking each step! sorry you found it confusing.......

 

Very nice write-up.

Turn distributor clockwise for retard & counter clockwise for advance.

An alternative to the adjustable timing light is timing tape on the harmonic balancer. Apparently it is possible for your balancer to slip however, so verify your balancer zero mark really is zero first.

If you have an aluminum intake do not over tighten the distributor bolt as it is easy to strip the intake threads.

 

Barry, your write up is excellent. I prefer the KISS method. (Keep it simple stupid). Your write up is for people with a bit of car experience, not dummies like me. Not knocking you article a bit. It's very informative. Your writeup makes them (hopefully understand timing), while in mine, I'm trying to get them to do it, without thinking, which is how many of us operate!! A lot of people don't care to know why or how it works, they just want to know how to do it........Your write up greatly help a lot of this sink in for me.........

I'm definetely not trying to steal your thunder, but when I continue to see people trying adjust there timing by changing out springs without ever turning the distrib., we have a problem.

 

I adjusted the timing on my new(er) 350 crate engine to the factory specs of 8* before TDC (with the vac advance line plugged) and the engine seems to be holding back on power when I hit the gas. Idles and cruises fine, though. When you say to adjust the initial timing to 12* is that advanced or retarded (btdc or atdc) ?

 

12* BTDC. You will be advancing the timing. Do this: Set the dial back timing light on 0, aim at the balancer/timing tab, and slowly turn the **** until the balancer 0 lines up with the tab 0, and read what you have for the initial timing. In your case advance the timing by turning the distributor (motor will speed up) a little at time while checking to see when you get it close to 12*.

 

OK, so both write ups are good and concise...I have a n00b question though.

Why set your initial timing at idle say for 12 deg and then go and turn the dizzy to get 36 deg all in? why not go straight to the 36 deg part or is the 12 deg bit just to get motor running in first place say after a rebuild? If you turn the dizzy to get 36 all in, that will affect the idle timing wont it?

Also..on my timing tab, there are a series of points, like a comb but no markings how do I decide which is 0? I thought it was middle but then I saw a pic of a tab with markings on and it seemed to be perhaps 2 points from the middle....

 

I have no idea on what step 7 is refering to. Why not set the light to 36* (or whatever the target value). Rev the engine until no more timing is coming in. Adjust the distbutor so the line on the balancer lines up with the 0 mark on the tab. Turn the ligh back to 0*, let the car idle and that will give the initial timing for future reference. The only other thing to do is to adjust the springs (if needed) to get all the timing in at around 3000 rpms. As a note. with stock springs, the engine may have to be reved too high to see the total timing. In this case, change the springs sooner than later.

 

 

My timing method:
Put in a black and silver spring.
Advance timing until the engine pings, then back it off until it no longer pings. After all, that's what a modern computerized engine does.

 

You are very well correct. You can do that. But for noobies, it's best they get a hang of setting the initial to really know what they are dealing with. Other than that, it serves no useful purpose.

 

Hey folks.......stop with the emails and pm's. I'm not a timing guru. I actually don't know crap about it other than what I have tried on my own car and through reading some very good info. available thru this site. I just tried to write some simple steps to get you on your way, and I suggest you read Barry's, Lars, and the others articles to fully understand timing.

I guess it isn't so simple, is it? Not simple to explain anyway.

 

You forgot to mention what happens when you hook the advance back up
Now we should be seeing 48-53 degrees. @ about 2,700 RPM...Correct?

 

Okay, I turn the floor back over to Barry to answer all timing questions. It's rather easy to do, but damn it's hard to explain in a concise manner. Actually it's impossible. Read Barry's sticky at the top.......please.....

 

YEP...........from my understanding anyway.

Barry got drilled on his post, why should I have expected in different, only I asked for it. I wanted y'all to post corrections, but in the end, you end up with with Barry posted to start with. Just ain't that simple to put in writing, is it?