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Removing Smog Control

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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 09:35 AM
  #1  
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Default Removing Smog Control

My son just bought an 81 and his county doesn't require an emissions test for cars 25 years old. Obviously the pump needs to go and much of the emission valves and hoses. Should he change or rebuild the Q4 carburetor? Is the stock manifold decent for street? Any recommendation on headers? How about distributor and control module?

Compression check indicated 175 lbs on 6 cylinders, 165 on the other two.

He's not intending to race. The car will be used for daily transportation.

Appreciate any comments or suggestions,

StreamDancer
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 10:03 AM
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[QUOTE=StreamDancer]My son just bought an 81 and his county doesn't require an emissions test for cars 25 years old. Obviously the pump needs to go and much of the emission valves and hoses. Should he change or rebuild the Q4 carburetor? Is the stock manifold decent for street? Any recommendation on headers? How about distributor and control module?

If everything is hooked up correctly and the car is running good why remove it? Your not going to see any great horse power gains..
I would leave the engine as is and add a set of hooker headers & true dual 2 1/2 inch exhaust w/a pair of performance mufflers. This setup will give you 25 more ponies and make the car sound like a corvette should.
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 10:08 AM
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if you remove the smog pump, Ill take it of your hands.
Ill even pay for shipping.
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 10:10 AM
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first and best $$ spent. The carb should only be rebuilt if its not working, if the car is running ok, just clean it up and go
If you do go with the headers, be sure they put the O2 sensor back in the new pipe on the drivers side, it is one of the main inputs to the ECM to control the AF mixture, along with the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and other items.
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 02:42 PM
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i don't know if you're ready for something like this. i took all of that out of my car and had to take the computer off too, changed the distributor, carb, and a lot of hoses need to go and it's a PIA to trace them. converter lock up switch too is needed. like what most people are saying, if it's working fine, i would leave it.
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 02:58 PM
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Unless you're pretty decent with mechanical knowledge, I wouldn't tinker with all of that stuff right off the bat. Learn a little more about it THEN decide if you want to remove it. Easiest gain in power and gas mileage is to yank the stupid stock exhaust and go with sidepipes. It's actually easier to do sidepipes than it is to do true duals to the back, on an '81. That crossmember is a little bastard, unless you change it. Sidepipes will also keep heat away from your rear spring and keep it living longer.

Honestly, the first thing you should do is rebuild the suspension and replace the shocks and springs.
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 03:23 PM
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The AIR injection pump is the only thing you really want to pull if you go with headers and duals. It comes off with 3 or 4 bolts which you will have to replace on the waterpump. The control valves all come off in one piece and then cap 2 vac lines on the carb.
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Old Aug 8, 2006 | 07:11 PM
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The car is computer controlled. Do not remove the emissions stuff unless you know what you are doing. The computer will be going full rich at all times, fouling plugs and reducing drivability.

Not to mention burning up the cat convertor.

Don't mess with it. If he's not racing then why would you wanna change it?
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