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I have an opportunity to purchase a 4-bolt 400 SBC block w/crank (standard bore) and I'm wondering if ther is such thing as a 400/4XX Stroker similar to the 350/383 set-up. If so, any comments and/or recommendations on parts?
I have an opportunity to purchase a 4-bolt 400 SBC block w/crank (standard bore) and I'm wondering if ther is such thing as a 400/4XX Stroker similar to the 350/383 set-up. If so, any comments and/or recommendations on parts?
Seems counter-intuitive but it's true ... 4bolt 400 is weaker than a 2 bolt. 4bolt not the best ... but not bad at all. Keep the hp under about 450 it'll be fine in a street car. Do buy a set of ARP STUDS P/N 134-5601 for the main caps ... about $65-$70.
Probably won't go back up w/ std bores ... just build a thirty-over, long-rod (6") 406. A set of Wiseco ProTru forged dished (-20cc) pistons P/N PT019H3 includes ringset ... I've seen em on ebay from $400-$525. A set of 6" Scat capscrewed rods P/N 2-ICR6000 ... ebay $200-$225. A pair of Brodix aluminum IK200 64cc heads about $1000/pr. A small base circle hydraulic flat tappet cam about $150. This'll put static CR at about 9.8:1 ... great for pump gas w/ alum heads. Performer 2101 intake'll work just fine w/ a freshened Qjet. Look around for a link to TWO articles I think appeared in chevy hi-po rag ... titled Impersonator 1 & Impersonator 2 ... both are fairly basic & streetable 406 buildup that made about 450 hp without breaking the bank. G'Luck!
415, 421 are a popular kit. 434 is stretching it for a 400 block but many have been done.
the 3.875 strokers are the way to go with a 350 or 400 block. IMO - I would never buy another stock block. You have to put a bunch of time and money into them. It's more cost effective to just buy a Bill Mitchell 415 or 427 short block.
Probably won't go back up w/ std bores ... just build a thirty-over, long-rod (6") 406. A set of Wiseco ProTru forged dished (-20cc) pistons P/N PT019H3 includes ringset ... I've seen em on ebay from $400-$525. A set of 6" Scat capscrewed rods P/N 2-ICR6000 ... ebay $200-$225. A pair of Brodix aluminum IK200 64cc heads about $1000/pr. A small base circle hydraulic flat tappet cam about $150. This'll put static CR at about 9.8:1 ... great for pump gas w/ alum heads. Performer 2101 intake'll work just fine w/ a freshened Qjet. Look around for a link to TWO articles I think appeared in chevy hi-po rag ... titled Impersonator 1 & Impersonator 2 ... both are fairly basic & streetable 406 buildup that made about 450 hp without breaking the bank. G'Luck!
Now there's a GREAT everyday street motor with no issues.
Very close to what I'm building except AFR 210's and a Crower Hydrol roller.
Here are those articles Jackson was talking about. Read both, because the second is an extension of the first. http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/te...que/index.html
[QUOTE=jackson]Seems counter-intuitive but it's true ... 4bolt 400 is weaker than a 2 bolt. 4bolt not the best ... but not bad at all. Keep the hp under about 450 it'll be fine in a street car.
jackson,
i was just wondering why you believe this is true. not flaming, just wondering (and learning).
Seems counter-intuitive but it's true ... 4bolt 400 is weaker than a 2 bolt. 4bolt not the best ... but not bad at all. Keep the hp under about 450 it'll be fine in a street car.
jackson,
i was just wondering why you believe this is true. not flaming, just wondering (and learning).
thanks,
kbosland
Most builders agree with this. Evidently, drilling out the metal for the extra bolts weakens the crank support in that area...
406 is a pretty popular size for 400 block cars. All of my Vettes have 400/406 engines.
sbc400: my best take on why OE 2 stronger than OE 4
my best take ... others please add if you've got more or better info:
400 has 1/8" bigger bore than 350 ... and since bore centers are same ... 400's bigger bore also cuts into the bulkheads more... the bulkheads are what the main bolts/studs thread into ... the 400 bulkheads are a bit weaker than 350 bulkheads. The outboard (4bolt) bolts thread into an area of 400 bulkhead that's not so strong ... unless it's a 2bolt converted via "splayed" outboard bolts ... splayed bolts are angled away from crank-bore centerline. Of course, the 400 block has less meat between the bores at the deck too. Unless you're building an all out race motor ... the 4bolt 400 is fine. Regardless if 2 or 4 ... and before sinking any $ into machinework/parts ... check that 400 block REAL CLOSE for cracking.
Seems counter-intuitive but it's true ... 4bolt 400 is weaker than a 2 bolt. 4bolt not the best ... but not bad at all. Keep the hp under about 450 it'll be fine in a street car.
jackson,
i was just wondering why you believe this is true. not flaming, just wondering (and learning).
Thanks for all the good info you've provided. I'm sure emeightch is gaining some good feedback as am I. bashcraft--you said you broke one. can you give a little more detail? was it abusive or in a race application? the reason i'm so interested is b/c i too have the chance to buy a 400 4-bolt and am interested in building a 406 or big inch sbc. also, i am currently taking an engines class at my community college and have been talking to the instructor about this topic. it's not a hi-po class--just introductory. we do get to tear down an engine and put it back together though. it's definitely fun and i'm learning a lot.
If it were me, I'd stick to a 406 config,..grinding is required for stroking and grinding will weaken an already stressed design. Recall,..no 400's were ever used as a performance engine from Chevy,..simply a high torque, low RPM mill designed to get mom's station-wagon rolling (literally!).
If more cubes are desired than 406, I'd go afternarket for a block.
bashcraft--you said you broke one. can you give a little more detail? was it abusive or in a race application?
It was in a drag car. A destroked 400, 4 bolt block with a 350 crank, 377 ci. After about 20 runs, the webbing cracked from the from main journal up into the front cam journal. It ran very good until it broke.
Recall,..no 400's were ever used as a performance engine from Chevy,..simply a high torque, low RPM mill designed to get mom's station-wagon rolling (literally!).
I'm not certain but I believe when Chevy was using the 400 there were no performance engines. They were low performance, smog engines and the 400 was a way to increase the torque of the small block.
Also, would the same 2-bolt vs 4-bolt philosophy be the same for a 350 block? Should I just stroker the 2-bolt 350 I have?
No ... philosophy not same ... I explained why earlier in this thread re: bulkheads. Best stroker value ... 383. Go ahead & use the 2bolt 350 block ... DO stud the mains w/ ARP studs.
I'm not certain but I believe when Chevy was using the 400 there were no performance engines. They were low performance, smog engines and the 400 was a way to increase the torque of the small block.
SB-400's were introduced on 1970 model cars,..which is the same year of new LT-1, and L-46's were carried over from 1969 into 1970. I'd consider those performance engines. Then from 1973 on, the L-82 was the performance SB, which always had more HP than the SB-400.
The General never put a big solid-lift cam with 11:1 compression in a SB-400 then dropped it in a Camaro or a Vette with a 4-speed and 3.73's out back. The failure rate would have exceeded tolerances. Instead the General dropped 350's and BB's in their performance Chevy's because they knew they could take the abuse. Ask yourself, why did Chevy put BB 396's (which actually displaced 402ci) in early 70's Camaros instead of their new SB400? Why didn't the Vette ever get one of these mills with a nice cam and some compression? The reason?,..potential failure rates and warranty costs.
This coming from a guy who has a 406 in a 69 Camaro,..with a 270H, AFR-195's, 10:1, RPM and a Q-jet with 3.73's and an M-20. Damn good motor,..pulls hard to 6000. Just me, but I wouldn't build a stock 400 block past 500 HP.
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