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Tach Cable replacement

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Old Aug 12, 2006 | 09:09 PM
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Default Tach Cable replacement

My tach cable (not the casing) recently broke near the tachometer. Anyone know if one can only replace the cable inside of the casing while it is in the car?
Or do I have to remove the tach cable and replace as a unit?
Thanks
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Old Aug 12, 2006 | 09:56 PM
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You can replace the cable but it is put in the housing from the tack head end so you won't find the job any eaiser.
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by LYLE
You can replace the cable but it is put in the housing from the tack head end so you won't find the job any eaiser.

I was afraid someone was going to say something like that!
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 01:04 AM
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To remove the broken part you release the cable housing from the tach (theres a little clip you push in with your thumb) and pull it out with the rest of your hand (much easier with a helper pulling on the sleeve)
If the square part of the cable is accessable at the tach end you just pull it out of the tach then run your new inner cable through the casing.
You definately need to lubricate it (I use cable lube, I have no idea what it is made from) and then just re insert it into the tach first, then to the distributor... not a tough job.

I would recommend using a brand new cable and sleve so you wont be doing it again in 3 months
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 02:29 AM
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Does yours have A/C?
I agree something that one would not want to do more than once in a lifetime. Can't wait to get at the heater core next!
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 02:34 AM
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If you are adressing me.... yes, it does have AC
The duct work is very simple to remove.
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 03:49 PM
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Does that need to be removed to get to the Tach cable?
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 04:05 PM
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Can you pull the cable out of the housing at the distributor end? If yes, I dont know why you couldnt replace it from that end. While its been years since I replace mine, I thought thats how I did it.
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by PaulH
Can you pull the cable out of the housing at the distributor end? If yes, I dont know why you couldnt replace it from that end. While its been years since I replace mine, I thought thats how I did it.
His cable broke close to the tach so he has to remove the broken piece

Does that need to be removed to get to the Tach cable?
I suppose you could do it without removing the duct but its very simple ...one screw If I remember and It makes it a heck of a lot easier to get at.
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 11:07 PM
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I used a tach cable from Corvette Central, it self-destructed after about an hours run time(during a resto, car never left the driveway!)
Locate a GM cable if you can, I believe Carters in Livermore has them
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 682XLR8
I used a tach cable from Corvette Central, it self-destructed after about an hours run time(during a resto, car never left the driveway!)
Locate a GM cable if you can, I believe Carters in Livermore has them
Is your distributor aligned so there isnt a severe bend in the tach cable?

That is usually the reason for a short lived tach cable
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 11:28 PM
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Hello,
depending on where your cable broke, and how long the casing is, there is a way to repair this until you can do it the right way.

The tach cable is similar to what a coax electrical cable is. There is a cable within the casing. If you cut the casing back to expose approx. 1 inch of the cable itself, you can then install a square peg on the end of the tach cable. The end of the casing can be uncrimped, and then reinstalled on the end of the black casing.

I found this square peg at my local parts store. It was listed as a speedometer cable repair kit. All I needed was the silver square peg that will go over the cable, and then crimp in place.

kdf
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Old Aug 13, 2006 | 11:30 PM
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I clocked the distributor to take the bend out(I had heard about this problem beforehand), and it still destroyed itself. Then again maybe I just got a bad cable.....
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Old Aug 14, 2006 | 12:29 AM
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Originally Posted by 682XLR8
I clocked the distributor to take the bend out(I had heard about this problem beforehand), and it still destroyed itself. Then again maybe I just got a bad cable.....
Well........ you did all that could be done
Maybe a faulty cable

OOPS almost forgot.... you need to use cable lube as well
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Old Aug 14, 2006 | 11:22 AM
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Tried to re-clock it. But when I did, the vacuum advance can hits the bracket that holds up the distributor shielding during timing. Just my luck...where the car runs swell I can't put the shielding bracket back because of the distributor vacuum advance.
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Old Aug 14, 2006 | 11:38 AM
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Mine came close when I first clocked it, but now that I'm running a different motor(no shielding yet) and have been playing with the timing, I may have to get creative when it comes time to re-install the brackets
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Old Aug 14, 2006 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Streamline
Tried to re-clock it. But when I did, the vacuum advance can hits the bracket that holds up the distributor shielding during timing. Just my luck...where the car runs swell I can't put the shielding bracket back because of the distributor vacuum advance.
For what its worth, my can is in between the firewall and the bracket (behind the bracket, not in front of it)
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Old Aug 14, 2006 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 682XLR8
I used a tach cable from Corvette Central, it self-destructed after about an hours run time(during a resto, car never left the driveway!)
Locate a GM cable if you can, I believe Carters in Livermore has them

I bought a NOS Tach cable (original true tach cable...not the upper speedometer cable for a 79 and up with cruise part# 88959470) from GM dealer for 10 + 8 shipping.

Carters price $100...what a deal...THANKS BUT NO THANKS KEN CARTER! I hope you haven't had to purchase anything from him. Everything he sells is way overpriced. Unfortunately all of the corvette shops in the Bay area are all greedy bast*ards! I do not even consider buying anything from them. I use to live a hour from Carlisle,PA. Too bad nothing like that here locally.
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