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1976 Rear Spring Help

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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 08:07 AM
  #1  
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From: bethlehem pa
Default 1976 Rear Spring Help

I need to replace the rear spring on my 76. My plan is to stay with a steel spring. I also plan on replacing all the dryed out rubber bushings etc. I could use a little help on where to get the parts and also any installation pointers or pit falls that I may run into. I have looked over Van Steel's offerings and am leaning toward them. Anybody have other vendors for me to look into? It is not my plan to replace the front springs at this time, with a new rear spring will the tail end sit high and if it does is it a problem? Is there any fit problems with after market springs?

Larry
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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 09:39 AM
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From: freehold NJ
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Be sure to use a c-clamp or vise grips on the spring when jacking each side up so that the jack doesn't slip off. I just rebuilt my spring. You can buy an 8 inch bolt kit with new bushings to lower the car as I did. It had looked Jacked up before. you can buy the spring and bolt kits at Zip or Ecklers or Midamerica. You can also get an upgraded lighter sping from Summit.
It's not too hard a procedure when you just replace the spring. When rebuilding mine, I put in the plastic liners and that meant I had to buy longer bolts that go into the diff.
Any other questions, holler.
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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 11:43 AM
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Van Steel, a supporting member, has a great video you can order. They have all the parts, etc. I went thru them for a complete replacement of trailing arms, half shafts, pumpkin and bushings. I returned my parts to them for credit after they sent me replacements. Did the whole job in a weekend. That was about 6k miles ago and everything is holding strong.
Good luck...
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Old Aug 19, 2006 | 11:21 PM
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I just did my spring a couple weeks ago. The old one was flat.

I was able to remove the spring with the rear y pipe still on the car. Since I was also replacing the rear end cover I ended up pulling the y pipe before I finished and I used a jack to hold the new spring in place for reassembly. I pulled the spare tire tub and it gives you alot of room to work.

I bought my parts from Muskegon Brake. I used 8" bolts and the rear sits just a little higher than it did before. I think it looks better.
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 01:32 AM
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http://www.guldstrand.com/vettemain.htm

Quality steel springs here...higher in cost than the $100 versions, though....
Rich
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 09:43 AM
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From: bethlehem pa
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Thanks everyone. What I don't get is the reference to 8" spring bolts. Is the thickness of replacement rear spring different from the stock sping?
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 10:20 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by 76greenlar
Thanks everyone. What I don't get is the reference to 8" spring bolts. Is the thickness of replacement rear spring different from the stock sping?
No that's not it ... look at the geometry of your rear end and you'll see. Longer bolts at each end of the horizontally-mounted leaf spring will lower the car.
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 11:58 AM
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From: New Cumberland PA
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Originally Posted by 76greenlar
Thanks everyone. What I don't get is the reference to 8" spring bolts. Is the thickness of replacement rear spring different from the stock sping?
If the replacement steel spring was manufactured to the oiginal OEM specification, the factory length bolt will work fine. I had my 7 leaf spring repaired about 15 years ago, most of the leafs were broke and replaced. Used the same hardware to reinstall it.
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 12:20 PM
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If there are no broken leafs in your original spring you can have it re-arched, painted, and reasembled with new liners and a new bolt.

I've done 3 cars this way and never had a ride height problem.
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Old Aug 20, 2006 | 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 67-73-76
If there are no broken leafs in your original spring you can have it re-arched, painted, and reasembled with new liners and a new bolt.

I've done 3 cars this way and never had a ride height problem.
True...but locally here a spring shop wanted $250 to re-arc spring off the vette...so I bought a new Guldstrand 7 leaf.....
Rich
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