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I am running the Autozone calipers with the stainless steel inserts. The lifetime warranty is great. I have had two to fail, one was my fault and they replaced them both. I might upgrade to Wilwoods one day, but I couldn't be happier with the stock units for now. I have a hydroboost that I will install this winter and should make these stock calipers even better. I would like to loose some more weight off the front and going to aluminum calipers will help! But that is for another project in the future.
Bernie
I believe they are worth it, for sure, with no doubts. Just not for me. I can buy 4 new S/S calipers for $275, and I don't need adapters to mount them.
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So what you really meant is what calipers are cheapest not which are best.
If you do a search you'll find the Autozone or similar el cheapo rebuilt calipers will leak and have to be returned on average 1 or 2 out of 4 purchased.
Norval,
you say you don't need afermarket brakes. I feel the same way about that monster blower sticking out of your hood. Is it DOT approved? Not required for the street. The speed limit is 55/65 anyway.
Last edited by turtlevette; Aug 20, 2006 at 11:24 PM.
anyone have a link for the wilwood calipers and needed adapter plate for an early c3??? i want to see the price diff b/w the wilwoods and a set of 4 o-ring calipers from VB&P.....
Durango, where did you score a hydroboost for $50???? I need one too!!!
you say you don't need afermarket brakes. I feel the same way about that monster blower sticking out of your hood. Is it DOT approved? Not required for the street. The speed limit is 55/65 anyway.
No the blower is not DOT approved but Friday night I got caught in traffic and my luck I got stuck right beside a cop and he actually paid little attention to me. I was nervous but he basically ignored me.
I put on a set of performance friction pads and went out and did 3 hard panic stops from 100 mph, one right after the other pulling brakes as fast as I could, getting lots of heat into the pads and the 3rd stop actually felt better then the first 2 but it did eat away at the rotors.
I run Wagner premium organic pads and for that one panic stop they will match anything else, sure with repeated panic stops they will fade but as a street car how many panic stops are you doing in a row???
With the hydroboost I can effortlessly lock up the 4 wheels but again how often do you do that?? A good driver doesn't need to be constantly hammering on the brakes ON A STREET CAR.
As for needing a blower and 540 cubic inches again it is not needed but it is so nice to feel that flow of power.
Once youv'e been blown you won't go back
So what you really meant is what calipers are cheapest not which are best.
If you'll go back to post #1, I said this:
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
I want to know what is the best, cost effective caliper to use with the Hydro.
That would mean I want the best of the cheap calipers available. The cheapest would be used, un-built, non S/S calipers pulled off a junk yard car sold on Ebay or at a Pick and Pull.
At Autozone, for $63.99 a caliper, I get sleeved, lifetime warranty calipers. That seems like the best I'll get for under $100 per wheel after I add in braided SS lines.
A good driver doesn't need to be constantly hammering on the brakes ON A STREET CAR.
As for needing a blower and 540 cubic inches again it is not needed but it is so nice to feel that flow of power.
Once youv'e been blown you won't go back
Spirited driving in the mountains would do it. You might lose your brakes in that situation.
I don't get how you can run that thing without getting into all kinds of trouble.
The other benefit of smaller wilwood calipers is that you can run a wide variety of wheels without worring about caliper clearance.
The end of straights is the only place on the track i gain on the faster cars. I can brake deeper.
anyone have a link for the wilwood calipers and needed adapter plate for an early c3??? i want to see the price diff b/w the wilwoods and a set of 4 o-ring calipers from VB&P.....
lowest cost fronts is the Laguna at $450, for $510 you can get the bigger/ better and only slightly heavier Talladega.
The BlackHawk Rear kit is $465.
These kits are up to 9lbs per wheel lighter than stock. and come with new brackets, mounting hardware and stainless flex lines. Everything but fluid...
I recommend Valvoline Synpower DOT4 brake fluid BTW. Gooood stuff
Hmmm, I disagree on the rigidity point but have no proof.
I think I will have to get my dial caliper out and do a test.
I THINK that the stock calipers are anything but rigid. This opinion comes from pad wear on the track. The pads on stock calipers wore into a football shape. Thinner on the ends and thicker in the middle. about 1/16" difference.
This tells me they are flexing bigtime. My Superlight 4's don't do that.
I agree, I have the same suspicions. Why else did the J56s come with additional brackets?
I agree, I have the same suspicions. Why else did the J56s come with additional brackets?
Marck by additional brackets do you mean a reinforced caliper bracket?? I know the racing version of the caliper had 2 pins, not the single like we have and also the bracket was braced something like this
This is my bracket that I enlarged and then reinforced for the 14 inch rotors
lowest cost fronts is the Laguna at $450, for $510 you can get the bigger/ better and only slightly heavier Talladega.
The BlackHawk Rear kit is $465.
These kits are up to 9lbs per wheel lighter than stock. and come with new brackets, mounting hardware and stainless flex lines. Everything but fluid...
I recommend Valvoline Synpower DOT4 brake fluid BTW. Gooood stuff
While this is a good deal it still is $1000 american and don't you require double brake lines?? Both in and a return line?? This is double plumbing and something that would bother me.
Spirited driving in the mountains would do it. You might lose your brakes in that situation.
I don't get how you can run that thing without getting into all kinds of trouble.
The other benefit of smaller wilwood calipers is that you can run a wide variety of wheels without worring about caliper clearance.
The end of straights is the only place on the track i gain on the faster cars. I can brake deeper.
I would have to drive about 3000 miles to find a mountain? We have a number of nice hills but the roads go straight over them. So no mountains for my car.
As for getting away with it?? I don't know either. I do go out as often as possible towards evening and like to run SECODARY roads, not the main expressways , secondary roads, no traffic and just run fast to get the addrenaline rush.
Benefit from small calipers for variety of wheels? I have a nice set of 10 inch wide 18 inch rims. Why would I want to change tire?? I have about $4000 CDN in my rubber and rims so I won't be changing back and forth.
Do you really think a little 12 inch rotor will outbrake my 14 inch set?
Look at the difference in leverage between the 2
Keith, That was a common pad wear problem due to the pads bending. The J56 pads used inconal steel and the top 1 inch was bent over at 90degrees to try to keep the pad from bending. That's why they had to mill the top ears off the caliper and use two cotter pins to hold the pads.
Norval, The J56 had an additional cast iron bracket that went from the two steering arm bolts to the lower caliper mount bolt.