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Don't come crying to me when you do a few autocrosses and get a spongy pedal that goes all the way to the floor.
Don't get me wrong...I love the technology involved with making high performance racing breaks, and I respect what they can do for a car under more than harsh breaking conditions...but I don't race. I don't autocross even. I town cross. I cuise back roads and shady smooth coutry black tops. I goose it occasionally, but never when I have to make a hard stop at the end. Sometimes I race light to light...but again, I do mostly street driving. Spending more than $100 per wheel is not a cost I feel is worth it. I bought this car in '99. I drove it for 4 years before I had to change the breaks. I then found out, when I had to drill the rotors that I was driving on original, stock breaks...almost 30 year old breaks. Sure, I could tell at that point...but consider how much better they will be for me with new calipers, new SS lines, and a Hydroboost pushing a rebuilt master. That's the cherries as far as I'm concearned.
EVen tough I sell big expensive fancy brakes I do admidt that the stock brakes are very good. Better than most anything on modern cars ( except for the high $$ sports cars ) and perform just fine in normal driving.
I'm not trying to change anyones mind. Just offer some personal opinions and options. I drove mine for about 5 years without changing pads or bleeding. It wasn't untill I did some severe highspeed autocross that I decided to upgrade.
I started Corvette Engineering to offer what I feel is a good deal on great brakes.
Hopefully I'm not too pushy. I'm hoping Twin Turbo Or Norval Or MrVette etc will tell me to shut the H*** up if I get anoying.
While this is a good deal it still is $1000 american and don't you require double brake lines?? Both in and a return line?? This is double plumbing and something that would bother me.
I don't think it's required, but the Talladegas and Daytonas support it if you want the recirculating brake fluid. I'm not sure about that, but that was my take from CE's site.
A better name for them may be self bleeders.
They are used with valving that causes the fluid to pump through the caliper and return to the master clyinder on each pedal stroke. This keeps the fluid in the caliper cooler and less prone to boiling. Also if any air does get into th system it is quickly pumped back to the master clyinder...
A better name for them may be self bleeders.
They are used with valving that causes the fluid to pump through the caliper and return to the master clyinder on each pedal stroke. This keeps the fluid in the caliper cooler and less prone to boiling. Also if any air does get into th system it is quickly pumped back to the master clyinder...
Very smart design. Too bad it's not cost effective for street use. I'd love to run a set of those.
Very smart design. Too bad it's not cost effective for street use. I'd love to run a set of those.
More cost effective then buying autozone calipers and replacing them every year or two. I've been there, done that. I'm using VBP stainless sleeved calipers on my '82 and have had better luck, but I'm using Wildwoods on my '72 without the recirc lines. I've experienced the spongey stock brakes after they heat up, and I've heard enough testimonials about the Wilwood to convince me that won't be happening. If it's good enough to race with it's definitely good enough for the street. Can never have overkill when it comes to brakes.