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Looks like I have a problem with the "run" resisitor wire on my 69, its supposed to provide 9v or so to the coil to keep the engine running, but it seems to be getting very hot (melted the insulation) and only delivering less than 1 volt.
I am trying to trace it to replace it, it appears to go under the power booster at the firewall.
Has anyone replaced this wire before??
where can I get new "resistor"wire ?
cheers,
Nick
Last edited by lvrpool32; Aug 20, 2006 at 08:56 PM.
Have you changed to an HEI distributor. I had this same problem when I switched to HEI, melted the resistor wire. After research found the HEI must have a new coil wire ran that is not a resistor. The wire runs to the fuse block below the booster. If you need to change it there is one bolt in the center of the fuse block. Pull the bolt and the engine half of the fuse block will come off.
Im not sure because of the year, but did your car come with a resistor wire alone, or did it run to a ballast resistor that mounts somewhere around the steering column. If you've got a ballast resistor it might be the cause of your bad wire.
Nick, I have an old wire harness that has the ballast resistor wire still in it. You can splice it back into your wire harness if you want. Let me know
When finishing up my engine install this spring, since there was no "obvious" ballast resistor, I purchased an MSD ballast resister and placed it between the ignition and the coil. Everything works well, but, Bullsharks comment makes me wonder if the resistor isn't already in place. Is the original br visable, or is it buried somewhere in the wiring harness?
Hmm.. has me thinking..I have a petronix flame thrower coil...I wonder if this has an internal ballast?..
also if I cant find the resistor wire..I could always run a regular wire and add a ballast resistor at the coil.
Hmm.. has me thinking..I have a petronix flame thrower coil...I wonder if this has an internal ballast?..
also if I cant find the resistor wire..I could always run a regular wire and add a ballast resistor at the coil.
Nick
The wire that has the white nylon weaved insulation and hooks to the + terminal of the coil is the ballast resistive wire. That wire probably saved your bacon by limiting the current to the short you have, probably down at the starter soleniod. There are two wires coming off that + terminal at the coil. one is the ballast resistive wire and the other goes down to the I terminal on the soleniod. I am not familiar with the petronix coil but I would be surprised if it does have a internal ballast. Does it look like the standard cylinder type coil with two terminals?
Bullshark
Last edited by Bullshark; Aug 21, 2006 at 10:10 AM.
I had made a diode wire from the starter to the coil (I have a hi torq mini starter with no "r" terminal, so I had made the diode wire to provide 12v's at cranking) this wire got fried, the diode's blew so 12v was flowing back to the starter.
I made another and the car will start, fine, just wont run...which made look into the resistor wire from the ignition, which is getting very hot...and not rpoviding the right voltage.
I am taking the alternator to autozone at lunch to have the diode pack checked.....and will try and replace the ignition resistor wire tonight.
Nick, do you still have the stock distributor with points? Or did you install a petronix type sensor system? If you did, and that went belly up, that could be the problem??
Bullshark
Oh, just saw your last post. Yep sounds like you may have melted some wires in the harness or toasted an ignition switch
Last edited by Bullshark; Aug 21, 2006 at 10:54 AM.
Nick,
As stated above, I do have two old spare parts wire harnesses off a 69 and 70, so if you need anything from it just yell, I also have a couple of ignition switches laying around somewhere
Just generally speaking, what years had the external block ballast resistor, and was this replaced with the resistor wire in later models.
kdf
I have been asking the same questions lately. Mine all works, but I am just trying to figure out HOW! I am running a flamethrower coil but it is firing stock style points.
I believe the pertronix flamethrower coil is supposed to be able to run on 12 volts.
Don't quote me here, but I think the 68 and newer use a resistor wire, not a seperate ballast resistor. 67 and older had a ballast resistor visible and inline between the firewall and the ignition coil. I don't know, is the wire made out of wood to provide extra resistance?? The 68 service manual is annoyingly ambiguous, because it describes 2 resistance wires but it is not clear to me if they are describing all ignition systems or only the optional transistorized ignition system.
Hmm.. has me thinking..I have a petronix flame thrower coil...I wonder if this has an internal ballast?..
also if I cant find the resistor wire..I could always run a regular wire and add a ballast resistor at the coil.
Nick
Pertronix Flame Thrower Coil does not have an internal ballast resistor...I'm running one on our '67 Jaguar and had to add an external ballast resistor to do the job with our breakerless dist.
I have been asking the same questions lately. Mine all works, but I am just trying to figure out HOW! I am running a flamethrower coil but it is firing stock style points.
I believe the pertronix flamethrower coil is supposed to be able to run on 12 volts.
Don't quote me here, but I think the 68 and newer use a resistor wire, not a seperate ballast resistor. 67 and older had a ballast resistor visible and inline between the firewall and the ignition coil. I don't know, is the wire made out of wood to provide extra resistance?? The 68 service manual is annoyingly ambiguous, because it describes 2 resistance wires but it is not clear to me if they are describing all ignition systems or only the optional transistorized ignition system.
I do think it started with the 68. My 70 LT-1 with transistorized ignition has both a coil ballast resistive wire and a resistive wire in the TI amplifier wire harness. I guess it saved them the cost of a resistor on the amp card
Bullshark
It's not wood, but probably some extra lightbulb filliment they had laying around the factory
Last edited by Bullshark; Aug 21, 2006 at 12:21 PM.
OK. just took the alternator to autozone and alternator checks out fine.
So its down to the 12v resistor wire.
I guess this is fed from the ignition switch...anyone know what color wire from the ignition switch povides the source??
I ask, because my wiring diagram tells me the yellow wire is the wire from the starter to the coil for 12v starting and the red/purple color is the resistor wire form the ignition..but its the other way round on my car.
I ask, because my wiring diagram tells me the yellow wire is the wire from the starter to the coil for 12v starting and the red/purple color is the resistor wire form the ignition..but its the other way round on my car.Nick
Nick, my memory isn't what it used to be but, I believe my 69 and 70's are the same way. I will have to check tonite when I get home, if someone else doesn't chime-in in the meantime.
Be sure to check all wires in the bundle, you may have melted insulation on adjacent wires
I ask, because my wiring diagram tells me the yellow wire is the wire from the starter to the coil for 12v starting and the red/purple color is the resistor wire form the ignition..but its the other way round on my car.
Nick
Nick, I just checked the wire harnesses off a 69 and 70 and it sounds like your wiring diagram is incorrect. The wire from the + coil terminal to the "R" terminal on the starter solenoid is a redish purple wire shielded with a white/ or yellow (can't tell for sure on this old harness) nylon cloth type insulation shield. The ballast resistor wire is insulated with a white high temp cloth shield insulation and has a faint black stripe on it. It goes down to the firewall connector and is inserted in the external firewall connector with a male spade lug type terminal. I think it picks up the switched +12 v ignition power on the other side of the firewall connector.
Hope this helps
Bullshark
Last edited by Bullshark; Aug 21, 2006 at 08:13 PM.
OK..well i traced the wire back to the terminal on the firewall, checked the spade right there and I am getting 12volts with the ignition on, but only 1 volt at the end of the resisitor wire.
I replaced the wire with a 12g wire, and I am going to convert to a pertronex ignitor II, which means I can dump the points, the condensor and use 12volts straight to the flame thrower coil.
My buddy also gave me a Mallory Hyfire IV ignition box/rev limiter which I may throw in.