Brake problem
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 2,390
Likes: 2
From: New Castle DE
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
That's how you get air trapped in the system. The manual suggests couter clockwise from the left rear.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 460
Likes: 0
From: Point Pleasant NJ
seems to me like the secondary seal is going/went bad in the master cylindar.
this happened in my 70 chevelle, manual brakes.. it lets fluid seep past the seal... this means you have little to no pedal but plenty of fluid... but usually with this you "might" be able to pump the brakes up for a little then it will go back to the floor.
anyone can step in to correct me... but i am pretty sure that is what it sounds like.
this happened in my 70 chevelle, manual brakes.. it lets fluid seep past the seal... this means you have little to no pedal but plenty of fluid... but usually with this you "might" be able to pump the brakes up for a little then it will go back to the floor.
anyone can step in to correct me... but i am pretty sure that is what it sounds like.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by lil75vette
seems to me like the secondary seal is going/went bad in the master cylindar.
this happened in my 70 chevelle, manual brakes.. it lets fluid seep past the seal... this means you have little to no pedal but plenty of fluid... but usually with this you "might" be able to pump the brakes up for a little then it will go back to the floor.
anyone can step in to correct me... but i am pretty sure that is what it sounds like.
this happened in my 70 chevelle, manual brakes.. it lets fluid seep past the seal... this means you have little to no pedal but plenty of fluid... but usually with this you "might" be able to pump the brakes up for a little then it will go back to the floor.
anyone can step in to correct me... but i am pretty sure that is what it sounds like.
Sounds very solid.
That's why I always recommend a rebuild kit for masters. They are cheap, $25 or so, and takes only an hour to do. Better to be safe right?
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
Brake problem update
Update...bled the brakes this afternoon. No change in pedal and the brake light is still on. Ugh. I'm going tackle the master cylinder now. Is rebuilding the existing cylinder better than purchasing a new one?What degree of technical expertise is required for the rebuild? I'll check the threads, but wondering particularly about any special tools required. Also -how might a leak behind the master cylinder under the dash be dealt with?
Thanks all for your input and patience. I'm a beginner and have much to learn. The only thing that keeps me going with the car is this forum.
Thanks all for your input and patience. I'm a beginner and have much to learn. The only thing that keeps me going with the car is this forum.
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Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by jberman
Update...bled the brakes this afternoon. No change in pedal and the brake light is still on. Ugh. I'm going tackle the master cylinder now. Is rebuilding the existing cylinder better than purchasing a new one?What degree of technical expertise is required for the rebuild? I'll check the threads, but wondering particularly about any special tools required. Also -how might a leak behind the master cylinder under the dash be dealt with?
Thanks all for your input and patience. I'm a beginner and have much to learn. The only thing that keeps me going with the car is this forum.
Thanks all for your input and patience. I'm a beginner and have much to learn. The only thing that keeps me going with the car is this forum.
All you'll need is a pair of snap-ring pliars, a rag or two, some parts cleaner, and an hour or so.
Buy the kit at any local Oreilly, $25.
Take out the snap ring that holds in the plungers, and start taking them out. There will be two plungers. Keep track of what order the parts come out in and their direction.
The instructions that come with the kit are hard to follow, so just pull out the plungers, and you'll see which rubber gaskets are in the kit for you to change. Just change them, clean the bore the plungers came out of, and re-install them.
It's really very easy, just go slow and remomber how everything went.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 460
Likes: 0
From: Point Pleasant NJ
i think i paid a total of 35 or 40 dollars for my new(remanufactured) one.
you can goto any autozone... o'reilly's... almost anyplace and get one. I am pretty sure they were not vette specific. For the extra 15-20 bucks... it is worth not having to second guess if you rebuilt it correctly. Although i haven't had any problems with my re-build it was suggested to me from the forum that i dismantle the rebuilt to check to make sure there was no rust or pitting in the cylindar... BUT on the off chance that happened ... everyone i have heard that ended up with a bad one got a replacement for free..
i would go with a rebuilt. easier... no guessing and you will be able to do it no problems.
It is as simple and bench bleeding the new one(buy the bench bleeding kit for master cylindars... comes with two small hoses and nipples that screw into the new master for 4 bucks) bench bleed ... remove both brake lines(try not to spill any fluid it will instantly remove paint... remove two bolts and replace!
goodluck!
...
you can goto any autozone... o'reilly's... almost anyplace and get one. I am pretty sure they were not vette specific. For the extra 15-20 bucks... it is worth not having to second guess if you rebuilt it correctly. Although i haven't had any problems with my re-build it was suggested to me from the forum that i dismantle the rebuilt to check to make sure there was no rust or pitting in the cylindar... BUT on the off chance that happened ... everyone i have heard that ended up with a bad one got a replacement for free..
i would go with a rebuilt. easier... no guessing and you will be able to do it no problems.
It is as simple and bench bleeding the new one(buy the bench bleeding kit for master cylindars... comes with two small hoses and nipples that screw into the new master for 4 bucks) bench bleed ... remove both brake lines(try not to spill any fluid it will instantly remove paint... remove two bolts and replace!
goodluck!
...
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Yeah sure...get the reman one. I just trusted myself enough to do the work myself. The remans sit ont he shelf for a while, and do get rusty. It's a hard call for the small amount of extra money but overall it just comes down to what you want and what makes you happy.
