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Has anyone replaced the brake line that goes from the front (proportioning valve) to the rear - without taking the body off!
is it possible to do without body removal? 74 vette
Thanks
This is relatively easy if you have a bolt in transmission (automatic) cross-member. Support the trans on a jack and remove the 6 cross-member bolts, lower a couple of inches to get the new brake line above the cross-member. Some flexing of the line downward in the middle will need to be done to insert the line in the front and rear of the car prior to locating it above the cross-member.
I changed all of the brake lines to stainless steel, without removal of the body on my 72.
I don't know if this can be easily accomplished without a bolt in cross-member.
Why my 4-speed car has the bolt-in cross-member is a mystery, as my build sheet says it came with the 4-speed.
I've heard that the non-stainless lines are softer metal and bend more easily - and that it is possible to install them without the removable cross-member. This is second-hand information though, perhaps someone else will chime in. The stainless steel lines did not bend that easily.
I still have to change the 3 fuel lines and have been thinking about trying it with the non-stainless lines, but I also have to replace my rear body mount reinforcement plates, so I have done it yet. Need to perform a body lift sooner or later.
Has anyone replaced the brake line that goes from the front (proportioning valve) to the rear - without taking the body off!
is it possible to do without body removal? 74 vette
Thanks
I replaced all the brake lines (with ss) and proportioning valve last month on my 74 L48 auto. I'm a novice and it took me one day to remove and install the lines/blocks/hoses and another 2 hours to bleed. Did this in the driveway on jack stands.
The line from the proportioning valve to the rear block is held on by several clips/bolts, some of which are a bit difficult but not impossible to get to. An offset wrench will help a lot. I didn't have one so I made one from an old wrench.
You'll have to wrestle with the line once you feed it in. Follow it from the valve and look up along the rail - you'll see it along side of the fuel line. They are not exactaly bent the way the one you'll remove was, and they are stiff. In fact, mine was shipped bent and needed to be straightened. Be careful not to kink.
When I installed the new line, I connected it at the rear block, started to install the clips, and found that the line extended way passed the proportioning valve connection. Had to remove those darn clips, adjust the bend(s) in the line to fit, and reinstall. I used good quality line wrenches to remove/install the lines.
I'm doing mine now. The hard part is getting the clips off. These clips hold both the brake line and the fuel vapor recovery line. The bolt which holds the clips onto the frame is located above the lines so a wrench can't be used to remove the bolts, and the body is too close for a standard socket. I simply used a hack saw and wire cutters to cut the clips so I could remove the lines and then get to the bolts. I will be trying to install the lines with the clips upside down so that the lines are farther up and the bolts are easy to reach. If that doesn't work then I'll be grinding a 1/2" socket for a 1/4" drive ratchet so that I can get those bolts back on.
Has anyone replaced the brake line that goes from the front (proportioning valve) to the rear - without taking the body off!
is it possible to do without body removal? 74 vette
Thanks
I replaced all of the brake lines with SS on my 69 4-speed. Didn't have to remove, cut, raise, or tweak anything. It took my son and I a few hours, but it wasn't too bad at all.