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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 10:38 AM
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Default Engine temperatures

Around 80F outside what are you running engine temps BB guys with headers?

I´m around 200-205F in stop and go traffic. 195-200F on freeway...

70F or less outside I think my engine runs maybe 10 or even 20 cooler...
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 11:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Vesa
Around 80F outside what are you running engine temps BB guys with headers?

I´m around 200-205F in stop and go traffic. 195-200F on freeway...

70F or less outside I think my engine runs maybe 10 or even 20 cooler...

You're okay. That's high, but acceptable.

Try popping your hood, and driving with it popped...not opened, just popped.

If that improves your average temps then you have a heat pocket building up inside under the hood, and a scoop and vent might help significantly.
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Vesa
Around 80F outside what are you running engine temps BB guys with headers?

I´m around 200-205F in stop and go traffic. 195-200F on freeway...

70F or less outside I think my engine runs maybe 10 or even 20 cooler...
That is where my 69 502 runs in 100 F in SO Calif.......4 row copper/brass radiator, 5 blade clutch/fan no A/C...Hedmon headers.....your temps sound ok to me...
Do you have an Aluminum radiator or Copper brass ??? (I'm doing a survey)

Rich

Last edited by rihwoods; Aug 24, 2006 at 12:58 PM.
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by rihwoods
That is where my 69 502 runs in 100 F in SO Calif.......4 row copper/brass radiator, 5 blade clutch/fan no A/C...Hedmon headers.....your temps sound ok to me...
Do you have an Aluminum radiator or Copper brass ??? (I'm doing a survey)

Rich
Good to know that they are around ok. I have no A/C anymore. I also have hedmans. I have the all original stock copper brass still there...2 years ago it had a leak and I took it out and a shop repaired it and flushed it...next time it starts leaking I will buy a new aluminium since i´m planning a shafirroff 540 engine now...
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
You're okay. That's high, but acceptable.

Try popping your hood, and driving with it popped...not opened, just popped.

If that improves your average temps then you have a heat pocket building up inside under the hood, and a scoop and vent might help significantly.
Good idea I will try that. I now have L-88 hood so no air is going out through the hood - just some goes in for the carb...
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 01:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Vesa
Good idea I will try that. I now have L-88 hood so no air is going out through the hood - just some goes in for the carb...

A friendly tip...if air can't get out...air can't get in either.
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 01:22 PM
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This is my 69 hood..did a "yarn" tuft test recently....the yarn gets "vacuumed" into hood opening when vette is moving...at idle,yarn blows towards windshield...

Driving..


Parked..engine at idle(900 Rpm)



Rich

Last edited by rihwoods; Aug 24, 2006 at 01:27 PM.
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 01:38 PM
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I think offhand, you would benefit greatly from a front air dam/scoop and a vent at the windshield edge of the hood. Air in / Air out. Physics.
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
I think offhand, you would benefit greatly from a front air dam/scoop and a vent at the windshield edge of the hood. Air in / Air out. Physics.
Be interesting to see if someone volunteers to test venting (exhausting air) at rear of hood..(I have not tested 78 by poping hood yet and not going to add holes anyway).Just have data/temp results for the 69 hood......think a forum member already modified/vented stock 79 hood at windshield..maybe he will share results...

Rich
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by rihwoods
Be interesting to see if someone volunteers to test venting (exhausting air) at rear of hood..(I have not tested 78 by poping hood yet and not going to add holes anyway).Just have data/temp results for the 69 hood......think a forum member already modified/vented stock 79 hood at windshield..maybe he will share results...

Rich

Do you remember who it was? I'm gonna add holes, but no one will ever see them. They'll be on that leading edge rib on the underside of the hood that seals down on the top edge of the firewall.
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 02:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
A friendly tip...if air can't get out...air can't get in either.
I mean i have a true L-88 hood with cold air chamber so it takes cold air from front of the windshild and the chamber goes directly into carb...And in a original L-88 hood there is no holes or vent where the hot engine air could get out...
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 02:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Vesa
I mean i have a true L-88 hood with cold air chamber so it takes cold air from front of the windshild and the chamber goes directly into carb...And in a original L-88 hood there is no holes or vent where the hot engine air could get out...

Ahh...I understand now. Sorry bout that.
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by rihwoods
This is my 69 hood..did a "yarn" tuft test recently....the yarn gets "vacuumed" into hood opening when vette is moving...at idle,yarn blows towards windshield...

Driving..


Parked..engine at idle(900 Rpm)



Rich
So you dont have the frech air chamber under the hood. Even when you have it (like I do) the manouvers of the air is similar in speeds lets say over 40mph - the air goes in really high speed - and the reason is not big vacuum - the reason is that when the air hits hard the windshield, most parts of the air bump upwards but some part of the air do not have "room" so they must bump downwards (that is some physics...) and thus heads inside...
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 02:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Vesa
the reason is that when the air hits hard the windshield, most parts of the air bump upwards but some part of the air do not have "room" so they must bump downwards (that is some physics...) and thus heads inside...

Couldn't that be offset by increased pressure in the engine compartment due to a air scoop/dam picking up air and forcing it into the engine compartment? That would increase engine bay pressure, forcing the hot air out the top, and not letting more air follow down?
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Vesa
So you dont have the frech air chamber under the hood. Even when you have it (like I do) the manouvers of the air is similar in speeds lets say over 40mph - the air goes in really high speed - and the reason is not big vacuum - the reason is that when the air hits hard the windshield, most parts of the air bump upwards but some part of the air do not have "room" so they must bump downwards (that is some physics...) and thus heads inside...
I just have what you see..the rear cowl opening...I actually took underhood temps at idle hood closed.(engine warmed up). They were at 150 F between firewall and air cleaner..then I road tested by driving 8 miles with oven thermometer installed under hood...underhood temps dropped to 125-130 F....I took Raytek readings to verify oven thermometer...

I think there is a "venturi" effect at cowl opening off windshield....???
Rich

Last edited by rihwoods; Aug 24, 2006 at 02:46 PM.
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Couldn't that be offset by increased pressure in the engine compartment due to a air scoop/dam picking up air and forcing it into the engine compartment? That would increase engine bay pressure, forcing the hot air out the top, and not letting more air follow down?
Maybe, if you just have that rear end of the hood open (I dont - well I do but that chamber is going tightly from that opening into carb so no air can go into or our from engine bay...
But if one makes holes back there then...but I do not wanna make holes because then that outcoming hot air would maybe be sucked into that frech air chamber and that steels horsepower
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by rihwoods
I think there is a "venturi" effect at cowl opening off windshield....???

You are right, I just think we can alter the conditions to change where the air comes from. I have an air dam/scoop under my nose, and when I pop the hood, the temp drops 5 - 10 on a spirited 35 - 45 MPH drive.
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Vesa
Maybe, if you just have that rear end of the hood open (I dont - well I do but that chamber is going tightly from that opening into carb so no air can go into or our from engine bay...
But if one makes holes back there then...but I do not wanna make holes because then that outcoming hot air would maybe be sucked into that frech air chamber and that steels horsepower

Yeah in your case it may not work the way I would think it'll work for open carb/air cleaner setups.
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 02:53 PM
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http://www.geocities.com/vesariihimaki/Photos.html

There you see my hood setup
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Old Aug 24, 2006 | 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Do you remember who it was? I'm gonna add holes, but no one will ever see them. They'll be on that leading edge rib on the underside of the hood that seals down on the top edge of the firewall.
I think it was Dr Jay....think best way to test this is getting underhood temps near firewall at idle(15 minutes)both ways..hood closed...then hood "popped" open..then road test and get temps again..on my 78 I can see where one could add holes (transverse support) but I;m reluctant to do that as I'm getting satisfactory results improving fan operation...
Rich
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