battery drain???
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,407
Likes: 2
From: Carmichael CA
Originally Posted by BC76
what will happen if I take the light timer out. Will the lights stillwork? Not even sure it works the lights go out as soon as I shut the door.
Your best shop for the meter is an electronics store such as Fry's Electronics. You can order one through their online shop at outpost.com. Here's a nice meter for $40...note that it can measure DC current upto 10A:
http://shop1.outpost.com/product/456...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG
The cheaper ones won't measure current any higher than like 1A which is not useful for automotive circuit testing where normal current draws on everything except lights and starter are at least 2 amps, and the lights will draw at least 20 amps and the starter like 600amp spikes. Which reminds me...don't turn your lights on or try to start the car with the meter attached.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 66
Likes: 1
From: Orlando Fl
can I just remove the timer, I don't drive the car at night so I really don't need the lights. Hopefully very soon this will move from my daily driver car to pampered fixed up vette 
for sunday drives.
for sunday drives.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by Rockn-Roll
76 didn't have a light timer or anything fancy like that on the lights. Going by the schematics the delay wasn't available until 79 with RPO C-94...I don't have a 78 schematic, but the 77 schematic or earlier doesn't show any delay circuit.
Your best shop for the meter is an electronics store such as Fry's Electronics. You can order one through their online shop at outpost.com. Here's a nice meter for $40...note that it can measure DC current upto 10A:
http://shop1.outpost.com/product/456...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG
The cheaper ones won't measure current any higher than like 1A which is not useful for automotive circuit testing where normal current draws on everything except lights and starter are at least 2 amps, and the lights will draw at least 20 amps and the starter like 600amp spikes. Which reminds me...don't turn your lights on or try to start the car with the meter attached.
Your best shop for the meter is an electronics store such as Fry's Electronics. You can order one through their online shop at outpost.com. Here's a nice meter for $40...note that it can measure DC current upto 10A:
http://shop1.outpost.com/product/456...H:MAIN_RSLT_PG
The cheaper ones won't measure current any higher than like 1A which is not useful for automotive circuit testing where normal current draws on everything except lights and starter are at least 2 amps, and the lights will draw at least 20 amps and the starter like 600amp spikes. Which reminds me...don't turn your lights on or try to start the car with the meter attached.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 66
Likes: 1
From: Orlando Fl
Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
BC76, where are you located? If your in the hurricane zone sounds like your down here close somewhere. If so I can help you out.
I am begining to wonder if the alt. just doesn't have a chance to charge the battery. I only drive a mile to work and then back. with the air running. I don't even get the car to 30mph.
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Racer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 366
Likes: 1
From: Houston Texas
Have you checked that the windshield wipers have gone completely through a cycle? I had this problem a few months ago. The wiper motor relay is energized when you flip the wiper swtich, but will complete the cycle even if the switch is immediately turned off.
I had intermittant control and ground wire connections at the motor and could flip the switch inside and hear the relay energize but the wipers didn't move. But the wiper motor has hot to the touch after turning off the key because it was trying to complete the cycle (and draining the battery at the same time).
I disconnected the wiper motor until I repaired it and no trouble since.
I had intermittant control and ground wire connections at the motor and could flip the switch inside and hear the relay energize but the wipers didn't move. But the wiper motor has hot to the touch after turning off the key because it was trying to complete the cycle (and draining the battery at the same time).
I disconnected the wiper motor until I repaired it and no trouble since.
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 66
Likes: 1
From: Orlando Fl
Progress: none 
Tried to pull the fuse, blew out a different fuse. can't get either one out. it;s 93 degrees out. I'm mad. Going to the parts store again to buy a fuse puller and spare fuses.
I checked the alt. volt. out to battery, none at all now. There was the other day though.
Started the car and made sure all swithces were off. Windshield wipers thru their cycle, radio, lights etc
still waiting on meter.
Tried to pull the fuse, blew out a different fuse. can't get either one out. it;s 93 degrees out. I'm mad. Going to the parts store again to buy a fuse puller and spare fuses.
I checked the alt. volt. out to battery, none at all now. There was the other day though.
Started the car and made sure all swithces were off. Windshield wipers thru their cycle, radio, lights etc
still waiting on meter.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 66
Likes: 1
From: Orlando Fl
Ok i finally get the meter and guess what happens on the way home. Yeah I,m driving the vette, the alt. burns up and just about caught on fire. It melted a vent tubing next to it
I believe this could be my problem.
Back to the parts store.
I believe this could be my problem.
Back to the parts store.