I am rebuilding my steering control valve using a kit from Paragon which came with a new ball joint. As I was putting it together I realized that the ball joint does not have a cotter pin hole in it. The one pictured in the catalog with the kit definitely has one so I am assuming this was not supposed to be that way.

Has anyone else ran into this before and, if so, what did you do? I'm nervous about trying to drill the hole myself. I don't know how hard of steel it is and I also don't have a drill press so would be doing it free hand. Would I be safe just using a lockwasher and regular nut rather than the castelated nut and cotter pin? Should I just call Paragon and see if they will replace it? I can't really send the whole kit back since I have already begun reassembly.

 

Call Paragon, but drilling it shouldn't be aq problrm either. Check around and see if there is a machine shop that can drill it for you.

 

Thanks -- the machine shop idea may be a good route at this point.

 

My PS control valve is leaking at the pitman arm ball stud. Last friday I bought a rebuilt unit from BAIRS Corvette parts. It arrived this Tuesday. I will install it Monday afternoon....along with the new tie rod ends and ball joints that I have had sitting in my garage for a little over a year.

 

I had the same reservations when I purchased a brand new GM control valve (at a cost of over $525) from my nearby Chevrolet Dealer. After dealing with a rebuilt control valve that never worked correctly I finally had enough and returned it to the rebuilder after about six weeks and bought the new one.

When I got the new contorl valve I also noticed rather quickly that there was no hole for the cotter pin. After placing a call to Chevrolet I was reassured that this is the way they are manufactured and that I would have to drill the hole.

Since I recently bought a new 1/2 variable speed Porter Cable drill, it really was not much of a problem. Actually it was no problem at all. I simply mounted the control valve on the steering linkage, attached the pitman arm, tightened down the attachment nut(backed it off a bit) and then using the nut as a guide, I proceeded to drill a small pilot hole for the cotter pin. Then I drilled out the hole so that the cotter pin could be inserted. Everything worked perfectly.

 

Mirrorfinishman -- thanks for that information. Maybe I'll give it a try. Sorry to hear the horror stories about rebuilt valves. I've heard others as well. I hope I have better luck. I take it the new valve from GM has been worry free (and leak free)?

 

You could also use a self locking nut or if you have enough threads showing just put two nuts on the ball joint shaft.

 

Once you have got the pitman arm attached, just snug down the control valve mounting nut and then back it off about a 1/16 of an inch. Just enough to free it up.

Then simply start out with a small drill bit, something smaller than the diameter of the cotter pin. Use a drop light to make sure you have got plenty of light in order to see what you are doing.

Use the the spacing indents in the top crown of the nut as a guide and make sure you line up the drill straight so you will come out on the other side of the pin in the opposite indent.

Once you have the pilot hole drilled, then drill that hole out using a drill bit that is about the size of the cotter pin. Personally, I would rather have the pin a bit tight when it is inserted, rather than loose. I guess it really does not matter, just as long as the pin goes thru.

About that new GM control valve. So far it has worked perfectly. Once I installed it, I only had to make a 1/4 turn centering adjustment to keep the steering straight. Other than that it has been just fine. The steering now operates like a brand new car. Very satisfied with the outcome.

A couple of things that I noticed with that rebuilt control valve was that the steering pulsated at low rpms while turning and that the car steered like jelly. Yes the steering was so loose that I could have probably steered the car with my little finger. It was like driving on ice. Way too loose compared to what would be considered normal steering.

 

These were also my first thoughts. However, I really did not like the idea of relying on either of these solutions. I feel a lot more confident knowing that there is a cotter pin holding that attachment nut in place. Especially when it comes to knowing how critical this part is in regard to being able to steer the car.