Get the white out!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
Get the white out!
Some of the horizontal surfaces on my 79 dark blue coupe are suffering the effects of PO neglect. They appear to be oxidized in a number of places - either that or the PO tried to do a job with a drill mounted buffer. I've tried all three steps of Meguire's, polishing compound, and z-bar clay - all with less than stellar results. The only next step (no, I can't afford to re-paint it) is to try rubbing compound. Any products you can think of that will remove those stubborn, hard to get out oxidation streaks? Thanks.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Have you ever wet sanded before? I'm assuming you still have a good layer of clear coat on the car.
Get yourself some wet sand paper, high grit, and very easily sand the areas with the streaks. Then, using a high speed buffer and a cutting compound, buff it well. Then, using a polisher and a polish pad, give it whirl and then microfiber it until it shines.
Get yourself some wet sand paper, high grit, and very easily sand the areas with the streaks. Then, using a high speed buffer and a cutting compound, buff it well. Then, using a polisher and a polish pad, give it whirl and then microfiber it until it shines.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
Nah, I think thats the easy part of paint work. Course, I try not to make any orange peel when I shoot...
<sniker>
<sniker>
Are you saying you can paint an entire car with NO orange peel?
You must have a PERFECTLY tuned gun.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,637
Likes: 27
From: Norwalk Ct
I would be very careful, GM had troubles with their paints in the late 70's.
It was in the heyday of emmisions crackdowns for paints etc etc and the paints had "durability" issues.
My 78 SA had the same issues as yours, the upper surfaces where badly bleached and "mottled" and it is something you cannot get out with wet sanding.
Using a paint buffer is a tricky business, even on older paint, it is very easy to burn through edges.
I would take it to a good paint shop first, let them look at it and see what they say.
Nick
It was in the heyday of emmisions crackdowns for paints etc etc and the paints had "durability" issues.
My 78 SA had the same issues as yours, the upper surfaces where badly bleached and "mottled" and it is something you cannot get out with wet sanding.
Using a paint buffer is a tricky business, even on older paint, it is very easy to burn through edges.
I would take it to a good paint shop first, let them look at it and see what they say.
Nick
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Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 3,637
Likes: 27
From: Norwalk Ct
You don't have to let them do the work, just take your car to them to look at and see if they think it can be buffed out, get professional opinion.
If they say it can be done...then grab a bucket, some 1200, 1500 wet'n'dry and go for it.
If they say it can be done...then grab a bucket, some 1200, 1500 wet'n'dry and go for it.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 1
From: AL
not to discourage you cmac72, but proceed carefully unless you have much experience doing this; as lvrpool32 eluded, your experience may not even matter. Otherwise, if you don't presently have the resources for a new paint job, just be prepared to view a paint job that may appear much worse than what you're seeing now.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Are you saying you can paint an entire car with NO orange peel?
You must have a PERFECTLY tuned gun.
You must have a PERFECTLY tuned gun.
I always get some orange peel, but have never had trouble with a lot of it. Painted more motorcycles than cars but done some of them too.
Usually use lacqer and shoot a coat of thinner over the final coat, melts the overspray in and minimises the orange peel. Don't think you can do that with the new paints, haven't done one in 5 or 6 yrs.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
LOL, actually I have 2 very good guns, a Binks and a Sharp. New nozzles on them a couple yrs ago made such a difference it felt like a new gun. I don't remember where I got the Binks but the sharp was my dads, I neglected to return it about 20 yrs ago, don't tell him.
I always get some orange peel, but have never had trouble with a lot of it. Painted more motorcycles than cars but done some of them too.
Usually use lacqer and shoot a coat of thinner over the final coat, melts the overspray in and minimises the orange peel. Don't think you can do that with the new paints, haven't done one in 5 or 6 yrs.
I always get some orange peel, but have never had trouble with a lot of it. Painted more motorcycles than cars but done some of them too.
Usually use lacqer and shoot a coat of thinner over the final coat, melts the overspray in and minimises the orange peel. Don't think you can do that with the new paints, haven't done one in 5 or 6 yrs.
I'm still saving up for some VERY expensive guns. Right now I use a pair of IR guns, Lowe's Best. I have one for primer and paint with a good set of nozzles and the other is for clear with a huge can. I'm still learning but have done my fair share of painting.
I get the orange peel but not real bad. My biggest problem and I can't figure out why, is a massive solvent pop, or tiny bubbles trapped in the clear. They never occur on vert surfaces, just horizontal ones. I have tried new nozzles, needles, and guns. I have two big water seps on the tank, and I drain the water and air before every coat. I just can't figure out the solvent pop.