Rear hubs suck !
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Rear hubs suck !
Can anyone give me the easy short answer...when trying to remove the rear hubs. I want to change the bearings and install longer wheel studs on my 1977. How does this hub come off? Do the axle half shafts have to come off?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville Tennessee
Good luck! The half shafts have to come off. But do you have the tools to press off the bearing and press a new one on and properly shim it? If not you need to let someone like Van Steel do it. If I had it to do over again I would install offset t-arms as well. You might have to pull your trailing arms anyway if you can't get the shock stud out.
Bernie
Bernie
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
I strongly believe is slip fitting the inner bearing. I know alot argue about this but alot of us run them this way. It really helps setting up the proper clearances.
Wait a minute I run custom axles with a solid interial shim custom machined but when I was running stock axles I ran them slip fit. With my custom axles both inner and out are slip fit with the interial shim being part of the axle itself.
Wait a minute I run custom axles with a solid interial shim custom machined but when I was running stock axles I ran them slip fit. With my custom axles both inner and out are slip fit with the interial shim being part of the axle itself.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by BerniesVette
Good luck! The half shafts have to come off. But do you have the tools to press off the bearing and press a new one on and properly shim it? If not you need to let someone like Van Steel do it. If I had it to do over again I would install offset t-arms as well. You might have to pull your trailing arms anyway if you can't get the shock stud out.
Bernie
Bernie
The shock went easily. I just finished taking them out. Now, back to the hub. I'm really not even sure I need to replace the bearings. They don't have much play, if any at all. I just don't think they have ever been done and I want to look at them. Also, if they are okay, I'll just re-pack them with grease and put the hub back on. Can I remove the hubs without needing to press anything back in? The main goal here is the studs. I can't change them without removing the hub. What's the proceedure? Take down the half shafts? And then what? Can I unbolt only the outer side of the half shaft or doe sthe whole thing need to come down?
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
The shock went easily. I just finished taking them out. Now, back to the hub. I'm really not even sure I need to replace the bearings. They don't have much play, if any at all. I just don't think they have ever been done and I want to look at them. Also, if they are okay, I'll just re-pack them with grease and put the hub back on. Can I remove the hubs without needing to press anything back in? The main goal here is the studs. I can't change them without removing the hub. What's the proceedure? Take down the half shafts? And then what? Can I unbolt only the outer side of the half shaft or doe sthe whole thing need to come down?
Gary is by far the most qualified to answer this question. He has a rebuild service that is second to none.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
You are getting yourself into a bigger job then you might expect. It does require alot of effort to remove the inner bearing since the inner one is press fit on the axle.
Gary is by far the most qualified to answer this question. He has a rebuild service that is second to none.
Gary is by far the most qualified to answer this question. He has a rebuild service that is second to none.
So the hub cannot be removed withough pulling a bearing off the shaft and having to press it back on?
If that's the case I do have a good shop here locally that I can just drive the car to and have them do it.
Norval, with your slip fit bearings, is it the housing that is machined larger so the bearing just slips in, or do you machine the bearings down so they are smaller?
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
I strongly believe is slip fitting the inner bearing. I know alot argue about this but alot of us run them this way. It really helps setting up the proper clearances.
Wait a minute I run custom axles with a solid interial shim custom machined but when I was running stock axles I ran them slip fit. With my custom axles both inner and out are slip fit with the interial shim being part of the axle itself.
Wait a minute I run custom axles with a solid interial shim custom machined but when I was running stock axles I ran them slip fit. With my custom axles both inner and out are slip fit with the interial shim being part of the axle itself.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
Yes, you can remove the whole bearing assembly by just taking off the drive flange (after removing halfshaft) and separating the hub from the trailing arm (after removal of other components obviously)
Just clean out the open bearing side as good as you can, put some new grease in there but don't overpakc and retorque the nut.
Just clean out the open bearing side as good as you can, put some new grease in there but don't overpakc and retorque the nut.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Yes, you can remove the whole bearing assembly by just taking off the drive flange (after removing halfshaft) and separating the hub from the trailing arm (after removal of other components obviously)
Just clean out the open bearing side as good as you can, put some new grease in there but don't overpakc and retorque the nut.
Just clean out the open bearing side as good as you can, put some new grease in there but don't overpakc and retorque the nut.
Okay, TT, good advice. Let me make sure I have this right, because I'm not sure what you mean by 'other components.'
I have removed the wheel, caliper, and rotor. This leaves the trailing arm in position, the hub, and the half shaft bolted to it's posterior.
You're saying that if I unbolt the half shaft flange from the back of the hub, I can slide it outward without ecountering any press fits?
Racer
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 309
Likes: 0
From: Ocean City MD
It is a big job. I just had mine apart to straighten a bent trailing arm. You can pull the axle, the nut and flange, remove the caliper, remove the e-brake cable, remove the rotor(drill rivits), remove the e-brake shoes, remove the shock mount bolt, remove the 4 nuts and lock washers, pull the hub assembly out. That is how I did it. I then used a press to disassemble. Not an easy job and does require some special tools.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by windsoreight
It is a big job. I just had mine apart to straighten a bent trailing arm. You can pull the axle, the nut and flange, remove the caliper, remove the e-brake cable, remove the rotor(drill rivits), remove the e-brake shoes, remove the shock mount bolt, remove the 4 nuts and lock washers, pull the hub assembly out. That is how I did it. I then used a press to disassemble. Not an easy job and does require some special tools.
Crap I've already done all of that but remove the half shafts and anything behind them.
Shocks were original by the way, same with the front. Not much has EVER been done to this car suspension wise. Everything is still stock except the front lower ball joints. Breaks were even original when I got it.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Can anyone give me the easy short answer...when trying to remove the rear hubs. I want to change the bearings and install longer wheel studs on my 1977. How does this hub come off? Do the axle half shafts have to come off?
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Okay, TT, good advice. Let me make sure I have this right, because I'm not sure what you mean by 'other components.'
I have removed the wheel, caliper, and rotor. This leaves the trailing arm in position, the hub, and the half shaft bolted to it's posterior.
You're saying that if I unbolt the half shaft flange from the back of the hub, I can slide it outward without ecountering any press fits?
I have removed the wheel, caliper, and rotor. This leaves the trailing arm in position, the hub, and the half shaft bolted to it's posterior.
You're saying that if I unbolt the half shaft flange from the back of the hub, I can slide it outward without ecountering any press fits?
Instructor
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 223
Likes: 1
From: Kennesaw GA
Durrango_boy,
I think folks are hitting all around what you want to know. And basically you will have to remove the spindle from the trailing arm to replace the studs. The hard part is getting the spindle pressed out while on the car. Some have done it with a BFH (Large Hammer) from under the car, but this can/will damage the threads of the spindle. Most likely you will have to remove the entire trailing arm assembly and put the whole assembly into a press to get the spindle out. At this point you are almost better off sending the trailing arms to someone else and have the bearings replaced and your longer studs installed. I just did mine, and after thinking I could do it myself 'cheap', I went ahead and bought some new ones and moved on.
This is too important of a part to do it wrong in my opinion.
I think folks are hitting all around what you want to know. And basically you will have to remove the spindle from the trailing arm to replace the studs. The hard part is getting the spindle pressed out while on the car. Some have done it with a BFH (Large Hammer) from under the car, but this can/will damage the threads of the spindle. Most likely you will have to remove the entire trailing arm assembly and put the whole assembly into a press to get the spindle out. At this point you are almost better off sending the trailing arms to someone else and have the bearings replaced and your longer studs installed. I just did mine, and after thinking I could do it myself 'cheap', I went ahead and bought some new ones and moved on.
This is too important of a part to do it wrong in my opinion.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by dwncchs
You cant put longer studs in unless you remove the axle.
Yeah, I've accepted that harsh reality. Like I said it's not an emergency since the bearings and yokes feel okay. Not much play if any. I just am not comfortable with the thread/lugnut contact being only three or four threads at best.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
You do not have to remove the spindle to replace the studs, in fact you can install longer studs with the whole shebang on the car, just have to drill a hole in the brake shield to allow you to feed the stud through the hole.
Although far from stock you can see you can feed a stud through on the left side in this pic, the hub assembly alone will give even more room.
Although far from stock you can see you can feed a stud through on the left side in this pic, the hub assembly alone will give even more room.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Looking at everything usin gthat into TT, I con't see that it'll clear and I can't get a drill back there to get the hole bored. Other thing, being new studs...wouldn't it be hard on the nut and studs if I were to crank them down by tightening the lugs? I can't forsee that being good for either component. Batman has a press now, and I think together we'd have no problem removing the trailing arms and getting the bearings pressed off and on again.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
When I had my spindle pressed out, it ended up taking 6 hours because he had to cut new throat plates for the press out of 3/4" steel to fit around everything. I'm going to take a stab at setting up and installing my bearings, but I don't know if my little press will handle removal.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 232
Likes: 0
From: Henrietta New York
Just removed my spindles from my arms yesterday. On a bench. I made up a fixture like the ones in the books out of 1/2 steel plate I had lying around. Drilled 3 holes in it. 2 for mounting long bolts thru the caliper mount holes and 1 for the pressing screw to go thru. I took the pusher screw out of my gear puller and bought a nut at the hardware store that fit it. (5/8-18 thread) Welded that nut to the plate to screw the pusher into. Then bolted two plates on each side of the spindle arm where the shock bolt mounts. Welded a steel plate from the top plate (of the two bolted together) to the 1/2 pusher plate. Total time to fab up....2 hrs. with a $1.85 invested in the nut. Steel was free. Could have taken them to get pressed out but like fabing stuff up and I am showing my son how to do some of this. It's crude I guess but worked like a charm.