Electric Door Locks (HELP!)
Thread Starter
"Rodstoration &am p;quot; In Progres
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,397
Likes: 1
From: Frisco TX
Electric Door Locks (HELP!)
During reassembly of my 80 (after paint) the shop put on new pigtails on both door switches. Ever since then the driver door will work but the pass will blow the fuse when the switch is pushed down.
Believe it is a pigtail wiring issue...
Does anyone have a diagram of the specific pins on the pigtail and what they should be hooked to? Would like for both sides if possible.
Thanks
Ed
Believe it is a pigtail wiring issue...
Does anyone have a diagram of the specific pins on the pigtail and what they should be hooked to? Would like for both sides if possible.
Thanks
Ed
Thread Starter
"Rodstoration &am p;quot; In Progres
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,397
Likes: 1
From: Frisco TX
Thank Ben... But what I need is the Driver side pigtail pins (A thru E) and the color wire that attaches to each. The schematic doesn't give me the pin letters for the switch. Makes troubleshooting this difficult.
Blue and Black are the specific Pins letters I need... Believe they are reversed on mine.
Thanks again.. Ed
Blue and Black are the specific Pins letters I need... Believe they are reversed on mine.
Thanks again.. Ed
Thread Starter
"Rodstoration &am p;quot; In Progres
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,397
Likes: 1
From: Frisco TX
One additional question... should both door lock switches be "momentary" contact switches or should they "make contact until the opposite direction is switched"?
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 1,266
Likes: 0
From: Allen, TX, USA
Switches should be momentary. Push up/down and you complete the circuit to fire the solenoid to open/close the lock.
If you have an Ohm meter, you can take the switch and ohm it out to see which pins connect when the switch is moved. Just hold the switch in one position and have someone probe the pins until you find a connection. THen do the other way.
If you have an Ohm meter, you can take the switch and ohm it out to see which pins connect when the switch is moved. Just hold the switch in one position and have someone probe the pins until you find a connection. THen do the other way.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Originally Posted by 80TexasC3
Thank Ben... But what I need is the Driver side pigtail pins (A thru E) and the color wire that attaches to each. The schematic doesn't give me the pin letters for the switch. Makes troubleshooting this difficult.
Blue and Black are the specific Pins letters I need... Believe they are reversed on mine.
Thanks again.. Ed
Blue and Black are the specific Pins letters I need... Believe they are reversed on mine.
Thanks again.. Ed
B=black
C=gray
D=tan
E=blue
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Thread Starter
"Rodstoration &am p;quot; In Progres
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,397
Likes: 1
From: Frisco TX
SUCCESS!!!!!!
And a warning to anyone who purchases new door lock switches... I had two bad ones that just arrived from a well known parts house. Didn't want to wait until new units arrived so I took them apart and found that it is a very simply contact mechanism. Turned out that the B and D terminals should be in contact when the switch is at rest (center position)....they were not. Simply had to bend th internal contact a little to make it work... well it took "lots" of trying to get it right...but they are now working great!
Thanks again everyone!
Ed
And a warning to anyone who purchases new door lock switches... I had two bad ones that just arrived from a well known parts house. Didn't want to wait until new units arrived so I took them apart and found that it is a very simply contact mechanism. Turned out that the B and D terminals should be in contact when the switch is at rest (center position)....they were not. Simply had to bend th internal contact a little to make it work... well it took "lots" of trying to get it right...but they are now working great!
Thanks again everyone!
Ed
Thread Starter
"Rodstoration &am p;quot; In Progres
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,397
Likes: 1
From: Frisco TX
I created the following drawings (attached) from the information several of you provided via this thread and private messages. Hope these help someone someday...or probably myself the next time one of the switches goes bad.
Thanks Again Everyone! Ed
Thanks Again Everyone! Ed