High Torque Mini-Starters
In general, I tend to agree ... much of the doo-dads are just that ... fluff. However, in reference to the starter type I suggested above, what I suggested is simply an inexpensive resource for GM/Delco OE replacement late starter. Compared to OE C3 starter, it is "new" ... but I know GM's been installing them in OE serial production for at least last 10 years ... seems they may've appeared in mid-production C4. Two known examples of reliability: my 97 Sonoma w/ what's right at 9.1:1CR vortec 4.3 ... nearly 200K miles and only one minor bendix issue. My bud's 96 Z71 w/ what's right at 9.1:1CR vortec 5.7 ... also nearly 200K miles but never an issue. In addition to the two PU examples ... I know many regional circle trackers running GM/Delco PM starters ... because they don't heat soak & because they're light & because they're reliable ... those motors have high CR & run HOT ... many w/ locked ignition advance. Also, another friend (retired certified pro auto, aviation & marine engine builder ... same retiree I got my flowbench & dist machine from) ... he had recurring heat soak in his 33 hiboy roadster w/ sbc ... he'd tried everything & this gent sure ain't no dummy nor tightwad ... I sent him to local alt/starter shop that sells the GM/Delco PM starters for $80 ... that solved his problem. GM/Delco PM starters are not true "gear reduction" in the mopar sense ... instead they have an internal true "planetary reduction" which is generally very stable & quiet ... not like the stack of gears at drive end we see on typical race car minis. Suggest newer manufacturing techniques permit lower-cost permanent magnet production while GM sought weight reduction. Every now & then something comes along that's a real improvement over tried & true ... and, like the Rochester 4 barrel the Qjet replaced ... GM/Delco's permanent magnet starter w/ planetary is such. If you're pleased w/ the OE C3 starter then there's no sense changing ... but an OE-type late GM/Delco PM should be considered if you find yourself trying to solve a heat soak or reliability or header-fit problem.
Take it to a local starter/alternator repair guy in your area and have him rebuild it.
I had the starter from my '65 rebuilt over the winter, works good as new, and it took only 2 days and $45.00. NO problem at all turning the motor over and my stock original motor is 11:1 CR so your 10:1 CR shouldn't be a problem at all. The original starter lasted you 35 years so after a good rebuild it should last you another 35 years.
Personally, I just don't see the need to swap out OEM factory parts for the latest "hot-rod doo-dads" when original or original style parts work just fine for the application.












