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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 08:43 AM
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Default High Torque Mini-Starters

My starter is beginning to fade, actually almost has completely faded. Carry a pair of channel locks just to hit it a couple of times every now and then. I've been looking at the high torque mini-starters. Have any of you changed to these? I think it would work a little better for my 10:1 CR engine. How do you like them and could you recommend any brand names? Thanks guys.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 08:47 AM
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I am using the GM starter that is used on many applications. It is the gear reduction starter that is used on the 502 motors so it has plenty to turn over my motor. Much smaller and lighter than the original ones.

I think this is the part no. 10465385

Last edited by Gordonm; Sep 6, 2006 at 08:51 AM.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 08:47 AM
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I switched to a mini starter several years ago-no problems and it seems to have plenty of power to crank the engine. It's from GMPP.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 09:06 AM
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ditto on the GM mini starter.
Nice fit, no worries...
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Fubba
My starter is beginning to fade, actually almost has completely faded. Carry a pair of channel locks just to hit it a couple of times every now and then. I've been looking at the high torque mini-starters. Have any of you changed to these? I think it would work a little better for my 10:1 CR engine. How do you like them and could you recommend any brand names? Thanks guys.
The OE late model GM starters are great, light & inexpensive. BUT ... If your 71 still has points ... then it probably still has the separate "Start circuit" that runs from the "R Terminal" on solenoid cap to coil +. FYI, most aftermarket mini & all OE GM late DO NOT have the "R Terminal" on cap ... but a cap with an "R Terminal" can be installed.

The reason the mini & OE late work so well is because they are "permanent magnet" motors. PM in lieu of old-style "field coil windings" that are heavy & become inefficient when hot.

Star Performance has a nice late Delco PM for $100 ... right column .. mid-page ... P/N REN.PM1106
http://starperf.com/tabloid/page_55.htm
If needed, a local starter/alt shop can put the right cap on it.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 11:28 AM
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If you go with a later model OEM GM starter, the bolt holes are for metric bolts and thus a few thousandths bigger than SAE bolts. GM makes "conversion" bolts with a larger shank but correct threads. I don't have the part # in front of me, but the parts guy should be able to figure it out.
The standard 95-99 full size GM pick-up truck starter turns over my mild 9.75:1 engine with no problem.
I have an MSD distributor with 6A box, and just folded the coil wire to the starter back and did not use it as the coil is powered by the 6A box. On the starter I only used the main battery and the solenoid wires, as it only has two posts as jackson alluded to above.
The starter sounds a little "Chryslerish" compared to the old Fred Flintstone unit but you get used to it.

John
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 11:52 AM
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why switch to a different type starter. The original factory OEM starters are just fine, plenty powerful enough, and reliable.
Take it to a local starter/alternator repair guy in your area and have him rebuild it.
I had the starter from my '65 rebuilt over the winter, works good as new, and it took only 2 days and $45.00. NO problem at all turning the motor over and my stock original motor is 11:1 CR so your 10:1 CR shouldn't be a problem at all. The original starter lasted you 35 years so after a good rebuild it should last you another 35 years.

Personally, I just don't see the need to swap out OEM factory parts for the latest "hot-rod doo-dads" when original or original style parts work just fine for the application.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by BarryK
why switch to a different type starter. The original factory OEM starters are just fine, plenty powerful enough, and reliable.
Mine WASN'T reliable, it heat-soaked like crazy. Never would start when the engine was warm. The BB502 starter was specifically designed to reduce or eliminate heat soak. I'm happy with it, and it's still a GM part.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by BarryK
why switch to a different type starter. The original factory OEM starters are just fine, plenty powerful enough, and reliable.
Take it to a local starter/alternator repair guy in your area and have him rebuild it.
I had the starter from my '65 rebuilt over the winter, works good as new, and it took only 2 days and $45.00. NO problem at all turning the motor over and my stock original motor is 11:1 CR so your 10:1 CR shouldn't be a problem at all. The original starter lasted you 35 years so after a good rebuild it should last you another 35 years.

Personally, I just don't see the need to swap out OEM factory parts for the latest "hot-rod doo-dads" when original or original style parts work just fine for the application.
I struggled with heat soak for 20 years with mine. Replaced starters, replaced springs, wrapped the starter, wrapped the headers, installed a really cool heat shield. NOTHING worked. I installed a gear reduction starter after trying one on my Porsche. ALWAYS works. Summit has them, get it with multiple mounting hole positions, so you can make it work with your headers, oil pan, etc.
I highly recommend this mod if you are having starter issues.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 01:11 PM
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My original was not working, heat soak and it barely fit. I had to remove the header to get it out. If a stock motor is what your after a stock starter is OK. I like the latest stuff!
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 01:15 PM
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geez, these cars ran for decades with original starters without issues........ my '65 never had heat soak issues and some previous owner even neglected to reinstall the heat shield on it at some point in it's life so even without a heatshield it's never given me problems until last winter (41 years old) when it started to intermittently grind a bit so I had it rebuilt.
LOTS and LOTS of these cars still run original starters with nary a problem.

I'm not saying you guys didn't experience heatsoak problems but typically that is more the exception than the rule.
Besides, the original poster didn't seem to complain of heatsoak issues, just that his starter was beginning to die which is not unexpected after 35 years.
just keep in mind that the problems some of you may have experienced therefore dicating a particular solution may not always be the same issue or proper solution for everyone else.

BTW, I also still have the original starter on my '78 L82 with no problems and it has plenty of starting power for the motor.

Personally I don't care what kind of starter he buys to use, it's his money and his car so he is free to do what he wants. My point was simply that to swapp out to the latest whiz-bang gismo just for the sake of it being the "latest, greatest" isn't always an actual improvement and original parts or original type parts in many, many cases work just as well (and in also many cases even work better).

That was my only point, no more, no less

Last edited by BarryK; Sep 6, 2006 at 01:19 PM.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by BarryK
That was my only point, no more, no less
Someday we will agree on something.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 02:34 PM
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Chevy did two fixes for my heat soak under warranty. Back then, it was only 12 months or 12,000 miles. They actually had a bulletin out to the dealers telling them how to pursue the problem. Like I said, the gear reduction starter, new tech whizo, works great for me. Those with no starter problems ever is probably the exception.
Peace.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
Someday we will agree on something.
it would be nice......

oh wait we DO agree on something. We both love Corvettes. That's a start anyway
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by BarryK
geez, these cars ran for decades with original starters without issues........
For 15 years my 77 was great if you went somewhere and stayed there for a while. A stop of under an hour, and it was a dice-roll whether or not it would start when you hopped back in.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 08:34 PM
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I'm gonna agree with BarryK on this one... original parts that have lasted so very long on cars can often be repaired to thier original performance....my 78 had no starter issues for the 110k miles that the original motor was in the car...problem now days is finding someone who is capable of rebuilding it to original quality levels.

BTW, I have a gee-whiz-bang-gizmo starter on my new motor, not because there was anything wrong with the old one, but because I happen to like gee-whiz-bang-gizmo's (call it a weakness) and the price was right.

I still have the original starter mounted to the L-82 sitting in the garage, its ugly and weighs a ton, but it works.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 09:25 PM
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Originally Posted by BarryK
it would be nice......

oh wait we DO agree on something. We both love Corvettes. That's a start anyway
Yep, you're right there Barry. Even with all of the starter issues, after 27 years, I'm still keeping, and love this car. Been with me longer than either of my wives or kids.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 09:32 PM
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My factory starter was going on my 79 so I went with the GM mini for a 97 Tahoe. 1 shim and it works great.It turns out all that was wrong with the factory one was a loose nut on the solenoid.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 10:40 PM
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I agree with Barry, I still have the original in mine with headers and never had an issue. I would rather spend the dough on something that would make a differece and rebuild the original one.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by I'm Batman
Mine WASN'T reliable, it heat-soaked like crazy. Never would start when the engine was warm. The BB502 starter was specifically designed to reduce or eliminate heat soak. I'm happy with it, and it's still a GM part.
went to a mini high speed starter. turn the key & bam the engine turns fast. To answer BarryK and I think he knows alot. but why not upgrade to a high tech light weight starter that is not effected by heat and starts the engine faster and is more reliable then a 30 plus year old starter. I think it even take less power from the battery to turn the motor.
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