well, your choice to believe or not believe what you wish but by disregarding the facts as presented and they were presently clearly in the links to other threads I posted than you are simply dismissing them for no logical reason.
spend yourt money on whatever aftermarket additives you want but the best thing for your motor is staring you in the face whether you choose to accept it or not.

Why post a question if you aren't going to believe the answers given to you?
Oh sorry, I guess you are only looking to have someone confirm what you were already thinking rather than give you the actual correct answer.

 

This subject has been debated on here time after time and the facts are the facts. I would recommend Rotella. If you think 15-40 is too thick use the 10-30 version. Corvettes seem to generate higher underhood tempatures and be subjected to harder use than your average daily driver. They are also have larger clearances than modern engines and are usually not driven in winter but in the heat of summer so 15-40 Rotella would be the best choice. It has the proper additives and viscosity for your application. Dump a bottle af EOS in with whatever else you want to use as oil if it trips your trigger but it is not your best option.

 

I noticed that you are in Austin TEXAS. So believe me when I say this 15-40 Rot is NOT too thick. 15-40 means the oil will act as if it is a 15 weight when cold and get to 40 when hot that is why it is called a multi viscosity oil. I agree with many that going to Rot is the way to go in this day and age. But as with everything else it is up to the individual to make up there own mind. As the old saying goes in TEXAS you can lead a horse to water but that does not mean you can make him drink.

 

EOS with every oil change?

I hate to bring this up again but, to put it simply, won't EOS plug your filter (therfore NOT be something you would want to use)?

 

I think it will and the bottle even says it is not an oil additive. Maybe 4 oz at a time would be OK but don't see the need when we have the HD 15W-40 oils, they are perfect for these engines.

 

I'm not 'ignoring' any facts.

If you wish to believe oils are universal and there's a brand that's designed for Mack truck diesel engines that is also best for your Vette, go-man-go!

But you are ignoring the 2nd sentence in my original post.

 

Wes there has been allot of good information on this thread along with references to other threads with more information as well on this topic. Please read through it and research what you will through other avenues that may be available to you. As the people on this great site have many years of experience. I will tell you from my perspective on this subject is the fact that I have been messing with HP engines since 1968 and it was also hard at first to accept the fact that today's engine oils are not what they once were since they have taken out many of the ingredients needed for long life in our old design engines and found that the Diesel engine oils of today such as Rot have these ingredients in the oil that will help our old engines live a longer and happier life.

 

I don't think anyone was ignoring that 2nd sentence - I think they were just telling you that it was wrong. I don't have a horse in this race...Mobil 1 is my oil.

 

Comments on adding Lucas I use 4 quarts oil and one qt Lucas. It was good stuff in the Desert in 91!

 

Do a search on EOS and Moutainmotor.

Brett

 

I don't see any facts posted based on manufacturer's data, only opinions from users. This is an important topic and misusing these products can cause irreversible damage.

GM EOS is an assembly lube and engine break-in additive only, it's not designed for long term use as an oil additive. Automotive oils will have the additive package you need.

Rotella Oil is designed for diesel engines and the additives are designed for combustion properties of deisel engines such as soot control. Ask the Shell Guy yourselves and you will receive an answer similar to this one:

The Shell Guy says:
I am a little nervous saying anying about Rotella in this application mostly because the last few folks I tried to help were not so receptive.

If you are truly interested in what ROTELLA can do for your high performance application, read up on the literature both on this site and others, understand your application requirments, understand that Shell ROTELLA is developed with the diesel engine in mind, and if you are comfortable, give it a shot.

Don't hang the farm on this experiment, though. Run oil analysis. See if the oil is performing as you need it to. If it is not, understand that Shell is not responsible and makes no such claims of responsibility for any application.

If it does perform for you then GREAT! You have probably found a canned solution to your specializd needs at a resonable cost.

Now, regarding HIGH PERFORMANCE engines, gas or otherwise one must remember that ROTELLA is designed for deisel engine oils. It _is_ a universal oil that meets many gasoline specs (http://www.rotella.com/products/), but the instant one starts moving away from the main sequence of lubrication requirements and into custom land, one must start making one's own informed descisions regarding proper maintenance.

Either way, works for you or not, I bet this forum would be interested in the results. I know I would. So let us know how it goes for you!

--ShellGuy

 

I believe Dark Blue is looking for an additive not an alternative oil. Some of you like Rotella and that is fine, but not the answer to his question. I also am mildly frustrated with the seemingly lack of DOCUMENTED information on this subject. How about one of us contact Crane & Comp and get their take on the subject. I believe someone said to use their assembly additive regularly to address this issue.

 

Comp recommends diesel oils.
Look at the "pro-tip" in the middle of the page.
http://www.compcams.com/Community/Ar...ID=-1578676008

 

The primary focus of the Comp article is on camshaft break in and racing applications. It suggests that Comp did research on engine oils and how well oils protect camshafts during break in. They found that many oils failed their test, but better diesel oils have friction inhibitors as good or better than any automotive oils.

But all Comp is measuring is break in wear, not long term wear on all engine components.

 

Thanks for the reference, this is what I've been looking for. If you look at the bottom of page 70, left side it says "Comp breakin additive has also been shown to provide additional protection with no harm in long-term use." As I said before, I'm looking an additive not an alternative oil. Again thanks!!

 

Here is a quote from the article:

 

Just read a few things about GM's E.O.S. I have yet to see where it is bad as an additive for flat tappet engines. Prolonged use may damage the catalytic converter; however, many older cars do not have the converter. It contain very high level of zinc and phosporus.

"Available from GM dealers for about $10 per bottle, Engine Oil Supple-ment (E.O.S.) carries PN 1052367 and is a highly concentra-ted mixture of several key oil additives. It is designed to protect against piston scuffing and camshaft wear during the break-in period. But because of its heavy zinc and phosphorus content--which is advertised at no more than 5 percent by weight--and the increased risk of catalyst failure from it, GM officially advises that E.O.S. is not intended for long-term use."

"ZDDP is found in all engine oils at a fairly low level. ZDP is also very expensive as an oil additive package. EOS contains about 12 times the amount of ZDDP that is normally found in conventional engine oil. That is the express reason it was developed...to prevent wear in select situations where required by being fortified with high levels of the anti-wear additive ZDDP"

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Zinc_di...thio_phosphate

 

Sounds like a good product to use on a new engine during the break-in period. Good to know. I will probably go with this during my break in.

 

Pretty sure EOS also has a fair dollop of sulfur or sulfide in it (? "thio" ?) ... sure smells like it. If you slather some parts with it you'll stink for a bit.

 

Now we're getting somewhere. EOS has 12x the ZDDP of today's oils (thanks Mandm1200 for the info).

So if I wish to double my ZDDP content in my big blocks which hold 6 quarts, then adding one 16 oz. bottle of EOS, which has 12x the ZDDP of today's oil (pint for pint) would accomplish my goal (12 pints = 6 quarts).

Or put another way, if today's oils have zinc levels of 1000~ parts per million (or 1/1000 or .001%) and the pint EOS has 12/1000 PPM (being 12x) or .012% then by adding the pint of EOS I've met my goal of doubling my ZDDP.

(BTW, all my fun cars are 1973 and earlier,..no cats).

Does my rudementary math add up?

If so, I've not heard any downsides other than clogged filters but nothing to support this notion. Clogged with what? Please expound if possible. Some racing oils have higher ZDDP levels than we're talking here (but not enough detergents for street use).