solid T-arm bushings
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Make damn sure your upper rods are compliant with the lowers AND the halfshaft when it comes to geometry, hinge points and sharing the same instantaneous center. If you don't do this your stub axle may move in and out of the diff an excessive amount. Get it spot on and it won't move at all.
Norval, do you have everything parallel, no camber change?? Do the rod ends and u joints all line up? (as in draw a line through the outer 2 rod ends and it should intersect the hub side u joint, same for the inboard set)???
Norval, do you have everything parallel, no camber change?? Do the rod ends and u joints all line up? (as in draw a line through the outer 2 rod ends and it should intersect the hub side u joint, same for the inboard set)???
Yes Camber stays right on zero throughout all travel but sadly toe really changes alot.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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both the in and outboard sets need to line up otherwise yiou don't have a trapezoid shape between all the points and links.
The upper rod length depends on how high you moutn it and at what angle depending on inner and outer mounts.
Why did you go for 0 camber change? Surely you too have body roll so you need neg. camber gain to keep as much tire planted as possible. You did that on the front, why did you do it differently in the back?
The upper rod length depends on how high you moutn it and at what angle depending on inner and outer mounts.
Why did you go for 0 camber change? Surely you too have body roll so you need neg. camber gain to keep as much tire planted as possible. You did that on the front, why did you do it differently in the back?
Race Director
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 18,126
Likes: 174
From: WI
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
Why do you think redvetracr is interested? He knows what is good stuff and what's not..I'm willing to bet he doesn't have poly bushigns in that spot.
.....redvetracr
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,266
Likes: 156
From: Galloway Twp. NJ
Cruise-In VII Veteran
from what I remember, the hole in the trailing arm does not need to be enlarged for these bushings, they just need to be welded into the existing hole.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 581
Likes: 60
From: USA
I bought a set of these way back when. welded them into my T-arm. that was pretty straight-forward, since the sleeves are sized to fit just right. the reason I ended up not using this set-up is because you have to figure a way to be able to grease the spherical joint. it comes with a zerk fitting. I couldn't figure a clean elegant way to do that. they do provide good freedom of movement though.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by rpoL98
I bought a set of these way back when. welded them into my T-arm. that was pretty straight-forward, since the sleeves are sized to fit just right. the reason I ended up not using this set-up is because you have to figure a way to be able to grease the spherical joint. it comes with a zerk fitting. I couldn't figure a clean elegant way to do that. they do provide good freedom of movement though.
What would the ride be like on the street with joints like this?
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
both the in and outboard sets need to line up otherwise yiou don't have a trapezoid shape between all the points and links.
.?
.?
While building mine I researched everything I could find on the subject and a short upper rod is defenitely part of the design.
On the inner joints align, not the outer
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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a trapezoid has 1 long and 1 short side ???? Because you have the struts and halfshaft level that's what you have...a trapezoid
a & b are the struts, m is roughly the halfshaft and the u joints and rod ends should be on lines c & d
It's the same when having non parallel struts, a & b will just not be parallel..the rest is the same
That is the only way to share the instantaneous center and keep the stub axle from walking in and out of the diff...if you don't do it the stub may move in and out quite a bit and the only way to be able to run it like that (other than just leaving the clip off and just hoping the stub doesn't wear out) is using telescopic halfshafts like the viper has...and the oimsa wide body guy here has them on his car also (and so will I when I'm done)
a & b are the struts, m is roughly the halfshaft and the u joints and rod ends should be on lines c & d
It's the same when having non parallel struts, a & b will just not be parallel..the rest is the same
That is the only way to share the instantaneous center and keep the stub axle from walking in and out of the diff...if you don't do it the stub may move in and out quite a bit and the only way to be able to run it like that (other than just leaving the clip off and just hoping the stub doesn't wear out) is using telescopic halfshafts like the viper has...and the oimsa wide body guy here has them on his car also (and so will I when I'm done)
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Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Marck I don't/can't find my file on the 6 link but I have a hard copy in front of me. The inside upper and lower strut line up with the U joint.
For the outside the lower strut does NOT line up with the outer u joint, the lower strut rod is longer then the 1/2 shaft.
You draw a line through the lower outer strut rod pivot point, through the outer universal joint and this goes through the new upper out strut rod pivot point. Since this outer line is at an angle the upper rod is much shorter then either the lower strut rod and the 1/2 shaft.
13.5 center to center of the upper rod gets you in the ball park
For the outside the lower strut does NOT line up with the outer u joint, the lower strut rod is longer then the 1/2 shaft.
You draw a line through the lower outer strut rod pivot point, through the outer universal joint and this goes through the new upper out strut rod pivot point. Since this outer line is at an angle the upper rod is much shorter then either the lower strut rod and the 1/2 shaft.
13.5 center to center of the upper rod gets you in the ball park
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
marck you are right. I miss read what you were saying. I just got it now from your little drawing. We are saying the same thing. I was looking at length of upper and lower strut and you were talking about alignment. My inners and outs align too.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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Norval, how much does yours move? If you have it dead on it won't move, the more you're "off" the more the stub will move. Since your stuff is parallel you don't have an instantaneous center but otherwise it's all the same.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,266
Likes: 156
From: Galloway Twp. NJ
Cruise-In VII Veteran
lots of interesting information here!
but back to my original question.
what are they worth?
I think I remember paying around $180.00 for these (probably less) way back when I bought them.
since Herb Adams is no longer around, I don't know how much they sold for.
I can't use them.
what should I be asking for these bushings?
but back to my original question.
what are they worth?
I think I remember paying around $180.00 for these (probably less) way back when I bought them.
since Herb Adams is no longer around, I don't know how much they sold for.
I can't use them.
what should I be asking for these bushings?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
Likes: 54
From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by RPOZ4Z
I can't use them.
what should I be asking for these bushings?
Hmmm.... I'd take them for $20
If they are not sold anywhere I'd put them on ebay for $300 starting bid and see what happens......
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 4
St. Jude Donor '03,'11
Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
a trapezoid has 1 long and 1 short side ???? Because you have the struts and halfshaft level that's what you have...a trapezoid
a & b are the struts, m is roughly the halfshaft and the u joints and rod ends should be on lines c & d
It's the same when having non parallel struts, a & b will just not be parallel..the rest is the same
That is the only way to share the instantaneous center and keep the stub axle from walking in and out of the diff...if you don't do it the stub may move in and out quite a bit and the only way to be able to run it like that (other than just leaving the clip off and just hoping the stub doesn't wear out) is using telescopic halfshafts like the viper has...and the oimsa wide body guy here has them on his car also (and so will I when I'm done)
a & b are the struts, m is roughly the halfshaft and the u joints and rod ends should be on lines c & d
It's the same when having non parallel struts, a & b will just not be parallel..the rest is the same
That is the only way to share the instantaneous center and keep the stub axle from walking in and out of the diff...if you don't do it the stub may move in and out quite a bit and the only way to be able to run it like that (other than just leaving the clip off and just hoping the stub doesn't wear out) is using telescopic halfshafts like the viper has...and the oimsa wide body guy here has them on his car also (and so will I when I'm done)
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 23,831
Likes: 10
From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by turtlevette
The ride on the track or the ride on the way to the show n' shine?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,053
Likes: 4
St. Jude Donor '03,'11
Originally Posted by I'm Batman
Just spirited street/highway driving. I hate rubber bushings, and I'm afraid the poly will be too limiting.
I will go with solid the next time i take the trailing arms off.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,266
Likes: 156
From: Galloway Twp. NJ
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Originally Posted by RedBad1979
Hmmm.... I'd take them for $20
If they are not sold anywhere I'd put them on ebay for $300 starting bid and see what happens......
If they are not sold anywhere I'd put them on ebay for $300 starting bid and see what happens......
Damm........... $300.00 starting bid!
that sounds
