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if you make one yourself out of metal something to consider is the possibilty of an exposed wire shorting out against the metal.
i don't know about the chrome C3 shielding pieces, but on the C2 chrome shields there was a plastic liner attached to the top of the shield on the inside to prevent this from happening.
Just to be on the safe side, if you fabricate a shield out of metal you might want to line the inside of it with something - mabe cut up a rubber inner tube and line it or something similar.
if you make one yourself out of metal something to consider is the possibilty of an exposed wire shorting out against the metal.
i don't know about the chrome C3 shielding pieces, but on the C2 chrome shields there was a plastic liner attached to the top of the shield on the inside to prevent this from happening.
Just to be on the safe side, if you fabricate a shield out of metal you might want to line the inside of it with something - mabe cut up a rubber inner tube and line it or something similar.
Just to be on the safe side, if you fabricate a shield out of metal you might want to line the inside of it with something - mabe cut up a rubber inner tube and line it or something similar.
Good Point! I work on some high temp heaters (600 to 700C ). To protect the terminals we have SS covers with red high temp rubber, as if you goobered a bunch of high temp Red RTV on the inside of them. This is to protect against shorts. Then make sure you have a fire extinguisher too.
I have a MSD setup so it is noisy as hell in my stereo. It doesn't mess with my old analog/mechanical gauges. If it was my daily driver I'd think about shielding. Since I don't drive it that much it's bearable. AM is a great indicator on how well my ignition system is working though.
Good Point! I work on some high temp heaters (600 to 700C ). To protect the terminals we have SS covers with red high temp rubber, as if you goobered a bunch of high temp Red RTV on the inside of them. This is to protect against shorts. Then make sure you have a fire extinguisher too.
I have a MSD setup so it is noisy as hell in my stereo. It doesn't mess with my old analog/mechanical gauges. If it was my daily driver I'd think about shielding. Since I don't drive it that much it's bearable. AM is a great indicator on how well my ignition system is working though.
Funny I have no issues with noise thru the stereo, wonder why it effects the gauges and not the stereo?
ESU
Possibly because the guage wires are closer to the ingnition wires/shield than the antenna wire does?? Don't know, but just a thought. My '71 distributor cover has a plastic liner BTW.
I believe the only purpose of the shield was to avoid AM radio
interference. Remember, FM radio in those years was background
music. I have a '70 with no shielding at all - everything works great.
Would the MSD box itself need to be shielded also or just the distributor? It's mounted on the firewall right inside the engine compartment in front of the speedo and tach housing.
ESU
Would the MSD box itself need to be shielded also or just the distributor? It's mounted on the firewall right inside the engine compartment in front of the speedo and tach housing.
Try relocating box inside passenger front wheel well opening ... just in front of and below HVAC box.
I believe the only purpose of the shield was to avoid AM radio
interference. Remember, FM radio in those years was background
music. I have a '70 with no shielding at all - everything works great.
Remember that the plug wires are also shielded. Kinda makes one wonder, huh?
The shields are used to prevent the ignition from interfearing with the radio. There are lower shields (the evil finger-slicing "boomerangs") that cover the wires all the way to the plugs and the upper shields that go from the boomerangs all the way up and over the distributor.
One trivial clarification to what Paul said, The front of the plastic late C-3 Upper Ignition Shield cover does not snap into the air cleaner lid, it actualy snaps over a round ignition wire retainer that snaps on top of the distributor cap. This "wire retainer" is usualy tossed in the trash when you replace the ignition wires as the replacement wire sets do not have a nipple on the top of the distributor end boot. No nipples means no need for the retainer so it gets tossed and the ignition cover tang just hangs in the breeze. Doc Rebuild sells the wire retainer for those NCRS types who want it all to go together right.
I don't want to hijack this thread, but I have a question in line with the subject. On the factory ignition shields for the early C3, were they chrome plated & polished or merely chromed? I have a 72 vert with a base 350 and what I think may be an aftermarket replacement. I believe this because the top piece, although chromed, is rather rough looking (appears to be poor quality plating). I'm really just trying to confirm my suspicion.
My thinking is that GM would have put a smooth chrome finish on the ignition shield, similar to the chrome air cleaner covers. Does anyone have experience with this?
The GM shielding is "flash chromed" so the finish is not as slick as you might expect. It can be hard to find anyone to rechrome it right as most plating shops want to polish it and plate it which is a NCRS point deduct. The repro pieces are typicaly better plating quality but technicaly wrong because of the shiny smooth surface.
I have the factory sheilding fo 81 it does ground to the engine, Its at my house in Maine Ill be up there in the next week or so, If you want it send me a pm or email me at bruced267@hotmail.com shipping and it yours I have no use for it. Bruce
The one on my 76 looks just like that one it needs 2 legs about 8in tall that support it above the dist. cap and bolt to each side of the intake.
The poor finnish everyone is talking about is a clear coat it washed off in mom's dishwasher that and a little brake clean. Now you know why I stay in trouble