Brake rotor replacement
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Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2002
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From: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
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Brake rotor replacement
What holds the rotor in place when you replace them? pressure from mounting the wheel?
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 2,897
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From: Moon Township PA
Originally Posted by Guru_4_hire
Is that safe?
Yes, you can't remove the rotor unless the rivets are drilled out. I would center punch the rivet and then drill with a small bit. Increase the size of the bit until the entire rivet has been removed. In addition, mark the position of the rotor, relative to a specific position on the axle stub. I marked a lug with a spot of paint and a corresponding dab of it on the rotor. That way, you can replace the rotor in the original position. That should give you the best chance for having a balanced rotor and axle assembly. Gary
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Team Owner
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From: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
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I have new VBP rotors.
I am more concerned about the nuts holding the tire, holding the rotor too.
Oh well. If it works it works.
I am more concerned about the nuts holding the tire, holding the rotor too.
Oh well. If it works it works.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
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From: Boca Raton Florida
The reason hey are rivited in the first place is because the frame is upside down when they get installed on the frame, when it gets flipped over the rotors would fall off.
I think I also saw somewhere in here that the rotors were trued on the hub, which would mean they have to stay together and same orientation to keep from losing setup
I think I also saw somewhere in here that the rotors were trued on the hub, which would mean they have to stay together and same orientation to keep from losing setup
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
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St. Jude Donor '03,'11
Originally Posted by GaryS
I would center punch the rivet and then drill with a small bit. Increase the size of the bit until the entire rivet has been removed.
if i had it to do over again i'd burn them out with a toch or electric welder or even use a grinding wheel.
i just don't have endless time to screw with this car anymore.
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From: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
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Originally Posted by clutchdust
you planning on the wheel falling off? rotor can't go anywhere with the wheel in place. even with the wheel off the caliper holds it on the rotor, albeit loosely.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
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From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
Originally Posted by Guru_4_hire
I was thinking more along the lines of sheering.
As the rotor is pressed into place, the center of the wheel contacts and fits tightly on the center of the hub. All weight of the car on each wheel is born by the hub at its center. The lugs and lug nuts just keep the rotor held firmly against the hub. The lugs themselves are not load bearing.
Note: if you purchase an incorrect wheel that does not fit the hub correctly, then the weight is placed on the lugs. Somewhere along the line your wheel will fall off...
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Springfield MO
St. Jude Donor '07
Originally Posted by Z-man
Here's how Vette wheels work:
As the rotor is pressed into place, the center of the wheel contacts and fits tightly on the center of the hub. All weight of the car on each wheel is born by the hub at its center. The lugs and lug nuts just keep the rotor held firmly against the hub. The lugs themselves are not load bearing.
Note: if you purchase an incorrect wheel that does not fit the hub correctly, then the weight is placed on the lugs. Somewhere along the line your wheel will fall off...
As the rotor is pressed into place, the center of the wheel contacts and fits tightly on the center of the hub. All weight of the car on each wheel is born by the hub at its center. The lugs and lug nuts just keep the rotor held firmly against the hub. The lugs themselves are not load bearing.
Note: if you purchase an incorrect wheel that does not fit the hub correctly, then the weight is placed on the lugs. Somewhere along the line your wheel will fall off...
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,175
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From: Connecticut, USA
Well this has been discussed here many times but this is how I do them. It takes more time but it's a better job. Dan is correct the runout is the issue. I've measured the runout by just bolting the rotors on with the lug nuts and it changes everytime. Sometimes by only a few thousands other times much more.
The hubs and spindles were riveted then faced so the brake surface is perpendicular to the spindle center and runout in under .001"
If you have a lathe larger then 12" then you can do this with the rears, the fronts can be done on a properly setup brake lathe.
I prefer to bolt them on then shim to correct the runout and be done with them. If you break the flat heads loose then you'll have to recheck the runout.
Here's my car with 300 miles on them.Runout was set to .002" Endplay at .0015-.002" Brakes work great- no O rings.
Right Front
Left rear
The hubs and spindles were riveted then faced so the brake surface is perpendicular to the spindle center and runout in under .001"
If you have a lathe larger then 12" then you can do this with the rears, the fronts can be done on a properly setup brake lathe.
I prefer to bolt them on then shim to correct the runout and be done with them. If you break the flat heads loose then you'll have to recheck the runout.
Here's my car with 300 miles on them.Runout was set to .002" Endplay at .0015-.002" Brakes work great- no O rings.
Right Front
Left rear
