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I'm running the Petronix kits (#1181) and their FlameThrower coil in four cars,..no problems, ever. Their coil needs 12v so you'll have to bypass the resistor wire (the white cotton insulated wire to your existing coil's positive terminal) with a 12-14g twisted copper wire.
may I ask why you want to switch to an electronic conversion kit?
Others may disagree but I firmly believe that there is no advantage to an electronic conversion kit over an CORRECTLY operating and set up points system.
There is no increase in spark activity for higher performance and overall points are more reliable than electronics. Plus if your points fail on you (very rare) you can swap them out with another $9.95 spare you keep in the car and be driving again. Unless you keep another $159 spare conversion module with you and your conversion kit fails you are stuck waiting for a flatbed.
Ok, the conversion kits will save you the 2 minutes adjusting dwell about once a year though.....
going to something like an HEI system can show some improvements as they do have higher spark voltages over points but the conversion kits are simply swapping out an electro-mechanical switch (points) for an electronic switch (conversion kit). That's really all it does.
may I ask why you want to switch to an electronic conversion kit?
Barry...Even though I have been running an Accel Point eliminator setup for about six months I have to agree with you.
Somewhere in the back of my mind I simply dont trust it.
I also diddnt see any increase in performance.
Im pretty sure I got it in a trade for something and it was new in the box so I installed it....... guess I just wanted to try it out..... I have had no problems with it though...
As Barry said, a well tuned points type distributor is just as reliable and efficient as the conversion kits. Also, if you are like me and drive your car to a various locations around the US, should you find yourself in need of a set of points in an "emergency," you can purchase replacement parts just about anywhere in the US, every auto parts store has them in stock, not so with the conversion kits.
Keep the points and spend that money on something else that you will enjoy!
dammit, just when i thought i had everything figured out u guys come and make it hard on me . but what im getting a HEI one for is for the rev limiter option and the ability to keep hotter sparks at higher rpms without worrying about the points floating, or somethin like that, lol. I should have made this a poll.
there is no advantage to an electronic conversion kit over an CORRECTLY operating and set up points system.
What is your source of information to get to the 'correctly' set up - set-up?? I used to be one of the ol' shade tree mechanics, but that was back when I had HAIR on my head! (LOOng time ago)
Several reasons to ditch the points:
More accurate dwell and timing.
No chance of corrosion on point contacts from oxidation
No periodic adjustments.
No "point bounce" at high rpm's.
No burned up coil if you leave the ignition on by accident.
The one I posted has a built-in rev. limiter.
Several reasons to ditch the points:
More accurate dwell and timing.
No chance of corrosion on point contacts from oxidation
No periodic adjustments.
No "point bounce" at high rpm's.
No burned up coil if you leave the ignition on by accident.
The one I posted has a built-in rev. limiter.
If points were that great and reliable GM and everybody else would still be using them, I for one was very happy when the auto manufactures got rid of points and went to electronic ignition. I had many problems with points in cars (every 6 to 8 thousand you had to replace them and your car would run crappy when they started to burn out. I had a Ford that wouldn't start in the rain, tried a new cap, rotor, points everything, finally I just started carring a little propane torch in the trunk and when it rained I'd fire it up, pop the dist. cap dry out the points and it would fire right up) stock points can bounce at high RPM, they can slip out of adjustment. I know newer isn't always better but in this case in my opinion its a lot better (kinda like that one Ronco commercial for that rotisserie oven, JUST SET IT AND FORGET IT.)
If points were that great and reliable GM and everybody else would still be using them, I for one was very happy when the auto manufactures got rid of points and went to electronic ignition. I had many problems with points in cars (every 6 to 8 thousand you had to replace them and your car would run crappy when they started to burn out. I had a Ford that wouldn't start in the rain, tried a new cap, rotor, points everything, finally I just started carring a little propane torch in the trunk and when it rained I'd fire it up, pop the dist. cap dry out the points and it would fire right up) stock points can bounce at high RPM, they can slip out of adjustment. I know newer isn't always better but in this case in my opinion its a lot better (kinda like that one Ronco commercial for that rotisserie oven, JUST SET IT AND FORGET IT.)
One of the happiest days of my life was back in 74 or 75 when you could go out at 6:00 am on a 10° morning and have the vehicle start immediately.
Usually didn't happen with points no matter how well they were set up.
Hei got a bad rep in the early days because of module failure but that has long since been cured. Have had work trucks with hei run for 10 years plus with no replacement parts and still going. Not to mention mileage improvements.
Hei parts are available everywhere and cheap, points are not even carried anymore by some parts stores.
Can't see a downside to hei unless you just need to be original.
we use the M&H Breakerless SE points replacement for the stock distributor and have found it a very good and reliable unit. the advantages a electronic ignition has over points is beter ignition output, better timing control and no points to wear out and if it goes bad since it ses the original primary/points lead you can just put points the back in with out rewiring the car.
From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Ignition is one of those items where everyone has their own opinion (most are valid, some are BS), and unless you look at each system very closely it's hard to discern the performance differences, unlike headers or a carb. I've been running a system on my cars for about 20 years that I'm very pleased with. I bought (part of) a conversion kit that contains a variable reluctance pick-up coil that installs in place of the points (I declined the purchase of the amplifier/switching box). This pick-up coil fit nicely inside the stock tach-drive distributor. I measured the waveform coming off the pick-up coil, found that it is almost identical to the HEI signal, so I wired it up to an HEI module I had laying around. The system is inexpensive, and so far bulletproof.
There's always lots of suggestions when it comes to ignitions. Go with what you feel comfortable.
What is your source of information to get to the 'correctly' set up - set-up?? I used to be one of the ol' shade tree mechanics, but that was back when I had HAIR on my head! (LOOng time ago)
HUH??
what i mean is the distributor all set and shimmed at proper tolerances to avoid dwell fluctuations, correct curve dialed in, and a good set of points.