After seeing those pics of the c-3 on fire floating around here I've decided to possibly nix the idea of using the -8AN stainless braided rubber fuel lines and consider hard lines.
Since I'm pulling the body this week its a good time to install hard lines.

Any suggestions on where to buy these prebent for my 68 vert?
I've heard even prebent ones need tweaking, any company more accurate than another? I would like -8an.

Am I looking for something that does not exist and will have to make my own?

Any arguments for stainless braided rubber fuel hoses?

 

Just about any large Corvette supply source can provide steel hardlines.

As far as stainless braided, the only braided wrapped hose I would consider for fuel delivery would be the Teflon lined variety from Aeroquip. The arguments for braided hose would be the need for a flexible link connecting the hardlines from the engine to the frame using the Teflon lined variety, or for plumbing of anything other than volatiles. Some folks use braided hose from tank to engine, not a good idea to me. Aluminum hardline is another point of debate for me because it is vulnerable to rupture in the event of a nasty accident.

 

I'm still having trouble understanding why people are against the [good i.e. Aeroquip] braided line setups. People have been using S/S braided lines for fuel for ages and I have NEVER heard of problems like you can have with rubber hose. I wouldn't use the cheap stuff, for sure.

I am still planning on using it unless someone can provide proof that there is a risk.

 

I would call In Line tubing I ordered mine fron Zip and thats where they came from! They were bent in half in a big box with a sticker telling you were hold them and straighten them out. Also want some thing similar #8 An, look for a local hydralic shop they have SS braided over a hard teflon plastinc[im guessing on the plastic] they crimp the fittings on like hydraulic, they also call them JIC not An atleast in the hydraulic world.

 

Good info, if I went with the hard lines, what AN fittings would you use to connect the SS braided hose to the hard lines? (SS braided hose would be needed to connect hard lines to tank and fuel pump) Would you use those AN fittings that clamp to the flare on the hard line?

Anyone know the life expectancy for a teflon lined fuel hose? Would it last 5 years without showing signs of corrosion from the fuel? Thing I like about the SS braided hose is the ease of replacement and of course the look. but my car wouldn't look to cool on fire

Comments? thoughts? preferences? opinions? experiences? random snapple facts?

 

I have a complete tech how-to paper available on hard line fabrication. It has tools, parts, and techniques needed to build your own, along with photos of the process. If you want a copy, send me an e-mail request to:
V8FastCars@msn.com
Lars

 

No idea on their life rating.

The fuel lines on the frame are not under pressure, so unless you want it for looks, you can just go with hard line and make your connections with good quality rated fuel hose and stainless klamps. An fittings are overkill at the tank area.

Use tube nut and sleeve for tubing, then just an hose ends on braided stainless hose.

All depends on the money spent and the look desired.

Here are 4 pages of fittings for reference.
http://www.performanceplumbing.com/AN_Adapters.html
ope that helps

 

If you pull the body anyways I'd install SS hard lines, one piece from tank to pump (with hose to make the connections as original).

SS braided hose and hard lines cost about the same.... the hose is a lot easier to install if you do NOT pull the body....

The lines between pump and tank are not pressurized so it really doesn't matter...

Only between pump and carb you need hard lines, quality stuff (flares and connectors)...

 

Braided "line" as you call it is nothing more than rubber hose covered with stainless braid for abrasion resistance, pressure retention and appearance. There are different qualities and materials available within the rubber hose, but at the end of the day you still have a rubber hose and the same maintenance issues associated with it such as abrasion wear, chemical resistance properties, heat, and age. Rubber hose requires more maintenance than hard lines and it is more difficult to visually check the condition of the hose when it's covered with braid. As long as you set a maintenance schedule for replacement, you minimize the chance for hose failure.

Hard lines require little maintenance other than periodic visual inspection and will out live rubber hose. But hard lines will eventually need replacement as well, just not as often as rubber hose.

 

There are many stories of burned up Vettes and burned down houses due to the rubber tank lines rotting and sprouting a leak when the owner was not home. Some fumes... water heater pilot flame... kaboom.

I wouldn't say it doesn't matter... I would keep it in the back of my mind that there is a potential fire hazard with any rubber fuel line.

Having said that, I use rubber everywhere. I just replace them often as they are supposed to be replaced.

Edit... okay, not everywhere... but in lots of places.

 

I agree they are dangerous, and looking at the hardlines on my car before i ripped them off they were never replaced. So from 1968 till 2005 was a damn good run for those fuel lines. 38 yrs.
If is correct, how often? considering you use Stainless. If we're talking less than 10 years then I'd much rather install SS rubber with teflon and replace every 5 yrs then have to pull the body again 10yrs to replace the hard lines. I've heard too many people want to beat themselves with a peice of firewood trying to snake and rebend hardlines without pulling the body.
If they'll last another 38 yrs then my decision has been made

 

Those 38 year old lines were steel, OEM's never used stainless in production. In theory stainless will last longer than steel.

 

To those who say rubber is dangerous:

The factory fuel lines have rubber sections at the frame to fuel pump connection and at the tank pickup.

You have the rubber aging, cracking and rotting problems anyways, no matter what you install.

The SS braided hose is fuel resistant and good for many years. Unless you're pulling the body I'd go with hose, replace it every 5 years if you think the rubber is too old...... still better than pulling the body....

 

Tuff decision.
I'd like to install -8AN lines instead of stock -6an 3/8th lines for more fuel capacity & flow.
But I'm only seeing 3/8 lines available.
Anyone know of -8an hard SS lines available?
http://www.inlinetube.com/CX-CAT-03.htm
http://www.ecklers.com/product.asp?p...dept%5Fid=1818

 

This company offers stainless tubing from .0125" - 4"

http://www.trent-tube.com/products/aircraft.cfm

Search with google - there are hundreds of companies that sell stainless tubing

 

It's not difficult to make your own stainless tube lines.
You just need a bender, and good flaring tool besides other tools you probably own.
Hand benders for 1/2" and flare tools come in several price ranges and are available at many industrial supply houses.
Here is an example, but not necessarilly the best tool or price:
http://www.inlinetube.com/

Here is a tubing supply, but it can be found cheaper:
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=18&step=2

The line does not have to be installed in one piece and thus could be installed with the body on the vehicle. It also does not have to go on the top of the frame for ease of installation. A flared union can be used to join.

Braided rubber is much more expensive than this route and doesn't last nearly as long.

 

I think you could fairly easily install new hard lines if you used a 90 degree inverted flare splice at the rear frame riser.

 

These cars came from the factory with hard lines and hard lines is the way to go. I fabbed mine using Lar's paper with the sprial armor and all.

 

I couldn't recommend what i would do to someone else. Installing tubing used to be part of my job and i know what i want.

For a moderate hp BB 3/8" hard line (coated brake line) would be adequate. For hi-hp BB you may need 1/2" line from tank to pump. I would never consider a long run of rubber or flex hose. For areas that see snow and salted road SS would be preferred but man, waite until you try to just flare let alone double flair 1/2" SS tubing.
I definetly would insulate this line against heat and road debre. Who would care where u route it under the car as long as its away from heat/exh. Sometimes u can find rubber coated/insulated tubing and carbon steel would be fine covered like this but stay away from copper tubing. Just a thought, if one 3/8" line ain't enough u could run 2 instead of a single 1/2" line. Connections to pump is going to be rubber to isolate vibration so keep away from heat and use smoothbends only. I got rid of my 90* fittings at the pump - too restrictive - and use only 45* fittings. Most specialty hardware stores will have inverted flare fittings for the pump.

Keep that 1/4" return line to the tank and run some recirc through a tiny orifice to maintian constant pressure at the carb and prevent boil inside the fuel lines.

I found a good tubing bender made by General (HomeDepot/Lowes) and bent my own hard lines to the carb. Just use brake line to practice and size things up - cheap tubing. Brake line already has a double flare on each end and a flare nut installed when you buy it. Also use only double flares. Well, you will have to practice this many times to get it right and this maybe why so many install the flex line with -AN fittings, so they don't have to make the double flares.

Once u get into it tubing is fun as u get to customize your fuel system the way u want it and hard lines behave much better with very little support needed than floppy flex lines. And how often do we replace fuel lines?

Good luck.
cardo0

 

I started with a couple of lengths of 1/2 inch stainless tubing and a tube bender. I also used compression fittings to joint the splices I made.
On my mustang I used the roll of aluminum tubing in 1/2 inch that summit racing sells and again used the compression fits for joints here also.