Made my first attempt at brake work on Sunday and I paid alot of tuition, which I expected. Everything took longer than it should have and of course will take 1/4 of the time next time around, but I had one problem I couldn't solve.

I bought the "American Bleeder Kit" which has both the round and rectangular tops. I obviously used the rectangular for the C3 (I have a C6 as well so I bought the combo) but for the life of me I couldn't get the darned thing to seal off the master cylinder! It kept leaking from the end towards the rear of the car.

I thought at first maybe I had torqued down too hard on those J bolts and caused the cap to bow down the center, which allowed it to leak. But reducing the tension on the chains just made for air leaking that I could hear. I will freely admit I was at the end of my patience at the point where I tried actually bleeding as it was getting DARNED close to kickoff and that I likely just screwed up, but if anyone has tips to help me out I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks!

 

Yup, that part sux.

You need a piece of 2x4 wood over the top of the adapter and a large C-clamp to clamp it down tight on top of the M/C. Should be included with the kit IMHO.

After that it is the shizzle!

-Mark.

 

Ya know, I was thinking about C clamps. In the back of my brain I have a vague memory of a review that complained about the clamping included and the guy using a c clamp. But I don't trust my memory.

Thanks

 

I use a couple of c-clamps.

 

I use 1 C clamp and have never used those J straps. Be sure to crack the cap when done to so you depressurize it. I pump it up to 12 psi and watch the gauge, it should hold steady.

 

yeah the j-bolt are a waste of effort - a c-clamp and something to spread the load and you are good to go.

 

C-Clamp and a 2x4 scrap. Only way to go.

 

GRAVITY BLEED and return that brake fluid spraying bomb !!! Not "needed" on the C3 or older models.
The "gravity tool" is free it never wears out always works and doesnt take up any room in your shop or tool box.

 

Nonsense! Power bleeders are excellent aids and speed up the process significantly.

I agree, gravity bleeding works (for most who have the patience), but you shouldn't s*&t on a guy who is looking for help with what a LOT of people have great success with.

The C-clamps are the way to go!

 

I have used them,all or most of them.They take extra time and that is what you were speaking of -time.If he would have gravity bled it would have been done by now.Right? And I wasnt s*&ting on him I was trying to give him some help.There are times when speed shouldnt be the number one priority.This is one of them.

 

i ended up getting a diaphragm type to bleed dot 5. the motive may be okay for dot 3/4 but only works 5 up into a froth. once i had the diaghragm bleeder, it was twice around the car (once got it, twice confirmed it). you can flame me for dropping too much $$$, but i'll never have to fight it again!!!

 

I didn't buy it for speed, I bought it for convenience. Gravity bleeding brakes on your own is a major PITA and I don't always have somebody handy to play pedal presser. While I certainly appreciate your point and your method works the Motive bleeder and the C clamps will get the job done for ME. Let's not turn this into a gravity/power bleeding ranting thread please.

Thanks to all who replied about the C clamp. It makes a lot of sense and I have no doubt will work like a charm.

 

OK I'll shut up-but I would like to add -I gravity bleed by myself and never touch the brake pedal during the bleeding.

 

i've bled brakes for years like many here using the pedal method with success mostly, but learned a few new tricks after getting a pressure bleeder:

a - i felt i needed a diaphragm pressure bleeder for the vette brake system to bleed dot 5; no other method worked for me
b - while pressure bleeding, you can push each piston back into its bore fully to expel trapped air behind the seals, the pressure bleeder will then extend the piston to the back of the pad with fluid, do this several times as you watch air escape the bleeder (using a clear viton hose helps to see the escaping stream); something that I couldn't get done gravity or pedal bleeding. this little trick was worth the price of admission for me!
c - if you have o-ring seals and/or weak return springs, the piston will pull back into the cylinder slightly if pedal bleeding, making the pedal bleeding method very difficult; you have to pay attention to see this one!
d - during pressure bleeding (with bleeder valves closed) you can always step on the pedal to feel the progress; the additional pressure on the MS makes only a slight difference in feel. if you wanted, you could even pedal bleed with the pressure bleeder connected for comparison (you'd only do this once!).

nothing to with bleeding method:
d - you can heat the fluid and drive off some air before adding to your system. with dot 5, this really helps, some say necessary. if you buy the hygroscopic fluids, buy that which has been sitting on the shelf the least amount of time - buy in cans not plastic if possible (i haven't seen any cans around this location in a long time; they may not make any more, not sure)
f - the only way to completely flush a system is to take it completely apart and install clean

these are just my observations, not meant to put out there as the only way, or to convert anyone, just first hand oberservations.
and just because i have a pressure bleeder, depending on the car, i would use the method i thought best for the particular car, gravity, pedal, or pressure

nothing new here for many . . . hope this helps
thanks

 

I have found that some sleeved M/C will not gravity bleed and was told the sleeve covers some hole that allows gravity bleeding. Anyone know any more on this?

 

doesn't sound right, sleeve should have no effect if installed properly; maybe others will know more

 

I used the gravity bleed many times and it worked fine. I started using M/C from autozone that said they were sleeved and no fluid would run out so my old method would not work and the car had all new lines, callipers and hoses.