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Yeah, and until I see that beast I ain't gonna believe it. I"ve seen several of those old boys and they are always plagued with rust and rot. The fact that you found one in that condition is amazing. Do you think Bubba ever owned it too?
I don't know how it stayed so rust free, but I've been all over it and it only has two little holes, and one shattered cab brace. Must have been garaged until the past few years.
My '54 panel truck looks like swiss cheese.
Originally Posted by gmg1977
yeah about 3 to 4 hrs it depends which way you go. I think it is faster to go down past the lake of the ozarks to Lebanon, then I-44 to Jo Mo.
That's how I get to Springfield - 63 to 54, 54 to 5 at Camdenton, 5 to I-44 at Lebanon. It's almost exactly 3 hours to Springfield, so four to Joplin sounds about right.
Another question is who installed the pistons to the rods? The rods also have a "front" and "back"-this needs to be verified as well. There has been more than one piston installed backwards on more than one rod-trust me on this one. And by the way asking the question here is anything but stupid-there are alot of talented willing to help people on this site.
Yeah I think that's how I did it last time. Have you ever heard of 'John Meyer Truck and Salvage?'
Yeah I have I think they are on 7th St out towards Kansas. That is where most of them are. Its a good time to come this way its what I like to call "redneck weekend" (sorry if I offended anyone) because Saturday is the 38 Special/Lynyrd Skynyrd concert at the casino about 15 miles away in Miami, OK and Sunday its NASCAR in KC. Its fun times.
Another question is who installed the pistons to the rods? The rods also have a "front" and "back"-this needs to be verified as well. There has been more than one piston installed backwards on more than one rod-trust me on this one. And by the way asking the question here is anything but stupid-there are alot of talented willing to help people on this site.
ltlevil
Thanks for the feedback. I had a local machine shop install the pistons to the rods. I am trying to do most of the build myself so I can learn how it works. But some stuff its easier to pay someone $20 to save myself time to devote to other projects. Besides installing pins in new rods are a PITA. Besides I work next door to the machine shop. I dropped off before work and picked up when I left.
Yeah I have I think they are on 7th St out towards Kansas. That is where most of them are.
That's where my trans is. I can't decide if I want to drive out to get it or have them FedEx Freight it to me. Almost same money, but time wise it'd be easier to have it delivered, and I wouldn't have to deal with all the Nascar stuff...
just use care when start up time comes...I wiped out the cam on my first big block build...not a heck of alot of expense but pain in the ^$&$ to fix. plus time lost while excitement at first start turned to horror.
just use care when start up time comes...I wiped out the cam on my first big block build...not a heck of alot of expense but pain in the ^$&$ to fix. plus time lost while excitement at first start turned to horror.
Use lots and lots of a QUALITY break in lube. The cam, lifters, and all rod and crank bearings are what will need the most protection. Cover those bases and make sure evey other moving part in a fresh buld gts a good helping of break in lube.
Also, a priming tip. Find an old dist. Cut most of the body off, leaving the shaft that seats down in the manifold surface. Make sure you keep an access to the inner shaft that mates with the oil pump shaft. Use a drill on this shaft to prime the engine. If it's confusing just ask me to elaborate more, but basically you're spinning the oil pump with a drill to prime the engine of oil before ever turning the starter.
Use lots and lots of a QUALITY break in lube. The cam, lifters, and all rod and crank bearings are what will need the most protection. Cover those bases and make sure evey other moving part in a fresh buld gts a good helping of break in lube.
Also, a priming tip. Find an old dist. Cut most of the body off, leaving the shaft that seats down in the manifold surface. Make sure you keep an access to the inner shaft that mates with the oil pump shaft. Use a drill on this shaft to prime the engine. If it's confusing just ask me to elaborate more, but basically you're spinning the oil pump with a drill to prime the engine of oil before ever turning the starter.
Autozone or Advance Auto Parts will loan you a priming tool for no charge (You have to pay a deposit, but you get it back when you turn in the tool). That is what I did on my last rebuild.
I spun that poor drill until I started to see oil coming out of the heads.
I also used some GM Engine Oil Supplement in the oil for the startup and first two oil changes. First oil change was 100 miles.
Autozone or Advance Auto Parts will loan you a priming tool for no charge (You have to pay a deposit, but you get it back when you turn in the tool). That is what I did on my last rebuild.
Did they have a priming tool for the big blocks too or justt he small blocks. I'm wondering for a Cad 472 I'm rebuilding.
Same tool-Same distributor for small and big blocks. Same oil pump as well-volume and pressure difference but a big block pump works pretty good on a small block.
I found a oil primer from Jeg's for about $15 that should work. My goal is to have everything assembled this weekend except for the top end. Since it is starting to get colder out I plan to take a few days off from work next week so I can knock some of the projects out on the car if I want to drive it this year.
I found a oil primer from Jeg's for about $15 that should work. My goal is to have everything assembled this weekend except for the top end. Since it is starting to get colder out I plan to take a few days off from work next week so I can knock some of the projects out on the car if I want to drive it this year.
Great. Remember to take a few minutes every step to snap some pics. You can post them for us to see, and you can look back on them later. I've wished I took better documentation of some of the engines I've built before.
Use lots and lots of a QUALITY break in lube. The cam, lifters, and all rod and crank bearings are what will need the most protection. Cover those bases and make sure evey other moving part in a fresh buld gts a good helping of break in lube.
Also, a priming tip. Find an old dist. Cut most of the body off, leaving the shaft that seats down in the manifold surface. Make sure you keep an access to the inner shaft that mates with the oil pump shaft. Use a drill on this shaft to prime the engine. If it's confusing just ask me to elaborate more, but basically you're spinning the oil pump with a drill to prime the engine of oil before ever turning the starter.
One of the first "specialty tools" I fabricated was a distributor shaft priming tool. 1st motor was 32 years ago when I was 17 and a drag racer neighbor in Indianapolis told me about the priming tool. It has helped me through every motor since and sits in my tool box to this day. If you cut a straight groove in the top of it, it also helps you line up oil pump to distributor. My distributors drop in 1st time every time.
Dave