BFowlkes

Thanks to all the help on the forum in the last two months I've added Vintage AC, dyed and repaired the interior, recovered the leather seats and replaced the 4 speed with a TKO-600.

My next project is to replace the suspension with VB&P Perfomance Plus system. While I'm doing that I want to verify that the differential, half shafts and bearings assemblies are in good condintion. I don't notice any excess movement in the wheel or any noises. But while I have the suspension out what can I do to verify those components are in good condition.

It's a 1969 Coupe 350/350 with TKO-600 and about 80,000 miles

tracdogg2

Grab each rear wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock and wiggle. Any play you feel will be in the bearings. Put you hands at 12 o'clock and push hard and steady like you are trying to tip over a big heavy box. Any movement will be in the stub axles in the diff. If you have a lot of movemnet look for the stub axles grinding into the case.
To be really sure about the wheel bearings remove the caliper, rotor and halfshaft. Spin the spindle listening for any noise and check for play. They should spin smooth, quiet, and a very small about of endplay.

Mike

Scott Marzahl

Is there any way to remove the spindles without screwing up the backing plates? I'd prefer to press them out but I think I'll ruin the plates and I'd like to salvage them.

GTR1999

Mike is correct in his checks. If the bearing spin smooth and have no endplay they're probably still good. If the side yoke have under .040 endplay you're ok. If the rear end wasn't howling the bearings are probably ok too. Thing is, if you're going to rebuild the whole car why stop at the rear bearings or differential. Do them now, the costs to rebuild are only going to go up with part increases and labor.

Removing a spindle with that spindle press may work unless things are not too rusted then you may break the caliper bracket. A spindle knocker may be better. I usually replace the plates so I press them out. If they are original they may be very tight so be prepared.

BFowlkes

gtr, You're probabbly right. But I don't feel comfortable doing the rear end. how muhc show I expect to pay to the rear end re-done?

tracdogg2

If you use the spindle press (the kind that bolts on) there's a very good chance you'll bend the caliper bracket. It they have never been removed before I can almost garantee you'll bend something. I always use a knocker, hasn't failed me yet.
The problem with saving the backing plates is you can't see the wear until you get them apart. The parking lever slides across and is supported by the backing plate. Usually they are nearly worn thru. New backing plates are nice quality and if you are going for points you can still buy them with the Delco Moraine stamp.
Mike

79vetter

Listen to Mike: He knows this subject really well.

I am going to have him do my trailing arms and rear end here shortly.
Just a reference in case you decide to outsource the job.

Scott Marzahl

Thanks Mike, well now I know what to look for when I tear them down.

No points here, it's just a driver.

BFowlkes

79, Thanks for the reference. I'm definately leaning to just pulling it all out and having it redone while I put in the suspension.

GTR1999

Read through this post first.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1236684

Then you can decide what you want to do and how.

In answer to your question on cost, they really depends on how you want the job done. Typical rebuilds I see advertised are just a master kit and clutches set up stock. They run about $600-800 depending who does them. My custom jobs run more but involve a lot more.
Keep in mind shipping cost too, these are heavy(100 lbs) and you need to ship them in wood crates( more$$) When I ship UPS I extend my UPS discount to my customers, most places add to it for hidden profit.

Example:
Guy shipped me a diff from FL to CT his cost was $130 from the UPS store. I returned it UPS and the cost was $85.

Mike is close to you so you shipping cost would certainly be less if you decided to use him. This is something a lot of guys don't realize when quoting a job. Steering boxes and trailing arms aren't too bad but differentials and 4 speeds add up quick.

I hope this helps you.

Good luck,
Gary

tracdogg2

I have to agree with Gary on shipping. 99 lbs gets expensive. I'm sure the company built differentials are of decent quality even though I have seen some tooth contact patterns that were less than desireable. But you just can't beat a hand built unit. Setting up the posi unit and spider gear backlash, pinion and carrier preload, and optimum tooth contact is very time consuming. It easily adds several hours to a rebuild. Deburring and polishing is vital to adding strength and preventing cracks. It also adds time and expense. I take a lot of pride in my rebuilds and I know Gary does too.
Gary, I can't believe it has been almost a year since you did that rear end.
Mike