How did you verify that you were on the copression stroke? If you don't want to remove the valve cover, just remove #1 spark plug and hold your finger over it. When the comp. pushes against your finger you know for sure you are on compression stroke. Line up timing marks and stab the dist again. Good luck.

 

During each complete cycle, two revolutions, the pistons will be at TDC twice. That is the reason for looking at the valves. Crank the engine over with starter and watch for the exhaust valve to open. Then keep bumping the starter. You'll see the intake valve open just after the exhaust valve is closing. After the intake valve closes, bump the starter and try and get the mark on the damper to line up with the timing tab. It's tough to get it exactly at that point. I would happy if it was within 10*-15*. If the mark is to far off, repeat the process. Then look at the rotor on the distributor. It should be pointing in the vicinity of the #1 plug wire. If not, estimate off far off it is. Pull the distributor and turn it a distance that you estimated it was off by. At this point you should either have it right or possibly off by one tooth. If off by a tooth, pull it and turn it a little more. The reason for getting the distributor in at the proper location is it allows for maximum adjustment due to the vacuum advance can hitting an obstruction.

At this point the timing should be close enough to fire the engine. You may have to adjust it some. The original post mentioned the engine spitting fuel out the carb. If it still does that, I would then recheck the valve lash. There are numerous threads about how to do it.

 

don't know if this will help or not, but here's some more advice...

1. check for vacuum leaks. for instance, missing pipe plugs on the carb somewhere, something not hooked up, etc. you need to have all the holes plugged to get a good vacuum signal to the carb.

2. as everyone else has said, double check the timing. when I start an engine for the first time, I'll go through it like this... rocker adjustment 1/8 crank turn at a time until the rockers are all seated, then find compression stroke and set TDC on crank. with timing mark still at TDC, drop your dist. in according to proper alignment procedures.

next, with the dist in approximate 0deg position, turn the crank until the timing mark lines up with your desired initial timing (14-18deg depending on setup). now, pull the cap off the dist and set the dist body position so that the tiny triangle things line up. i don't know what they're actually called. get this as close as possible, tighten the dist. clamp down so the body is snug, but you can still turn the body if you need to adjust during startup. reassemble the cap.

what you should have at this point, is the engine on compression stroke, lined up 14-18 deg before TDC. the dist is in a position to where if the coil had charge, it would be firing at #1 cyl.

from there, as long as you have all the parts in your dist (you said HEI, right?) you should be able to get the thing started, with or without your vac. adv. can attached. besides, you're going to be revving it up during cam break in so you don't need the vac can for idle behavior (yet).

this is of course assuming you have fuel delivery. what sort of initial settings do you have on the carburetor?

good luck man, first starts are always nerve racking... the more you do, the more easy it becomes.

the blonde weasel

 

Just as long as you are in the compression stroke.

If I remember correctly....The distributor rotates past the number one position twice; once during the compresssion stroke and once when the piston is at Bottom Dead Center.

But if you are certain that you are at TDP, then there is something else causing your problem, which other members have alluded to, such as cam sprockets not lining up, or timing way off.....

However; I hope that you have solved your problem by now