suspension advice
NO PROBLEMS, except, when I drove it over some ruff road, it bounced around like a pong ball.
Feeling the need to jack it back up, what can I do initially to keep the tires where they belong? Springs, shocks, rear sway bar, strut rod, etc.? Can shocks alone give it a better ride?? If so, what works best on a weekend cruiser? Does it all have to be done at one time??? Would like to enjoy the fall rides.
How many mles, all that stuff.
Realize this thing even when the suspension is "Tuned" it will still be like a brick straped to a roller skate


thats funny, Yes the 68 is a beast , I have one too
I agree the best way to help would be to know the condition of the car now.
I have done rear suspension, gonna do front soon
just replacing the rear spring, and KYB shocks made a world of diff for me though, still waiting to put on the new strut rods I got from VBP...
front susspension goodies will include
springs
bushings, upper and lower
idler arm
pitman arm
tie rods
larger sway bar
best investment so far..... new seats
( i put a set of 80 seats with leather dyed to match )welcome to the 68 club, there are a lot of us here
cheers
I took mine around watkins glen with just the new shocks and springs and it was great, a littel too much body roll though, then I found out later that the end links on the front sway bar were missing

a quick stop at autozone and it was much improved
tim
Last edited by sweethence; Oct 3, 2006 at 09:13 AM.
My car rode ok accept for a small lean on drivers side. So I changed the weary spring to a VBP fiberglass unit. OMG, rode like damnit on a stick. I bought QA1 adjustable shocks and life is good. Changed the fronts too and added Dragvette kit. Better control and ride.
PS, Still got the &^$#@ lean on drivers side.
-Patrick
-Patrick
I would bet your problem is the a-arms. If the rubber bushings slipped around the bar, they would hold tension that way until forced upon in a another direction.
Have you ever swapped out the a-arm bushings?
If yes, this could still be your problem. The new bushings will move on the center bar until the outer washers and bolts are tightened and the bushings are mushroomed. You don't do this until the suspension is all back together and resting onitself. Then, tighten the end bolts, and that's the defauls position.
Original poster...I can't stress how much work is involved with doing a full suspension re-do, and re-doing the brakes again...but it's worth it. I cut my springs while I was in there, and it sits a lot better now. I replaced every bushing and greasable joint I could get my hands on. It's hard but is a WAAAAAY better than the 30 year old suspension I had.
.....everything appears to be original stuff in the rear, but the front suspension looks like it's been worked a bit. New seats sound interesting but I wonder if it's possible to change the foam cushions (more padding) and keep the stock look.
.....everything appears to be original stuff in the rear, but the front suspension looks like it's been worked a bit. New seats sound interesting but I wonder if it's possible to change the foam cushions (more padding) and keep the stock look.Check with a forum Vendor, Willcox, and see what he has for seat foam and new covers. I think you can get an easy install kit supplying new hog rings and hardware needed for the change. That would probably help your ride a lot.


.....everything appears to be original stuff in the rear, but the front suspension looks like it's been worked a bit. New seats sound interesting but I wonder if it's possible to change the foam cushions (more padding) and keep the stock look.You can restore your original seats with new foam, and springs as required, and I have done this before, and it does help, the thing with the 68 seats in no head/ neck support and no lateral support which is fine for around town stuff....
Me i like to drive my car on road trips, so i pulled the originals ( which ill restore later) and put these in , turns a 6-8 hour drive from torture to a nice ride


cheers
tim
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
How much coil did you cut, and did you cut the tight coiled end? Since our small block car has 245x60X15s on it, I need to drop it about 1" to 1 1/4". I'm thinking of starting with 1/2 coil on the tight end to start with.
How much coil did you cut, and did you cut the tight coiled end? Since our small block car has 245x60X15s on it, I need to drop it about 1" to 1 1/4". I'm thinking of starting with 1/2 coil on the tight end to start with.
I have a small block '77. If they are the stock springs...cutting one full coil will net you almost 1.5" dop, which looks great to me. It didn't affect the toe, but it will need to be re-aigned.
Also, cutting half a coil creates a problem with the spring not seating correctly in the cups. Stick with a full ring cut and you'll be happy. Check first about the spring you have and how similar they are to '77 springs.
I like composite springs but many on the CF like steel springs. Your choice may depend on your budget.
Install speader bar in front.
Don't skimp on shocks. Spend the $ on Bilstein HD's.
Install the correct anti roll bar sizes.
Set ride height properly
Adjust your steering box
Replace steering rag joint
Get a good four wheel alignment.
This will be $1000+ (depending on how much work you do yourself) but you must do this to get the most out of your Vette.
You will be amazed at how much better your Vette will perform. Next step is 17" wheels and 255/50/17 tires.
If you want different seats, find a good set of late c3s. Inexpensive, very light and very comfortable.
I do have an AIM again for my '77 but I'm not at home. I can look later today and let you know. I was VERY happy with my new front ride height.
K...I just looke din my AIM, but I can't seem to find a spring part number. Maybe someone else with a '77 can look that up.
FWIW, I only cut a half coil from my 550's and it hasn't created any problems.
FWIW, I only cut a half coil from my 550's and it hasn't created any problems.
Well, in my car's defense...it has not been driven since the cut. I put the wheels back on, and used my body weight to compress the suspension to a load. After doing this, the toe seemed fine. Maybe it was a little over the other way before I started and this corrected it. I just never noticed a toe in/out problem.
Yeah, this one's first trip out of the garage will be to a shop for alignment and inspection.













