Anyone have any idea what would cause the turn signals on my 1969 coupe to work on one side and not the other? I've checked the bulbs and they are good; I flip the turn signal to the right and the lights work normally; I flip it to the left and the lights get brighter but, they don't blink. Any ideas?

 

Replace the signal stat.(flasher)

 

Signal stat isn't an item, it's a company that makes aftermarket turn signal assemblies, turn signal lights, taillights, etc.

 

I understood what you were speaking of Sly and I would imagine most of the forum understood your post as well since you included the word "flasher"..........

 

Just trying to keep the confusion down.

 

This is just a guess on my part. I would think that the flasher doesn't have a discrete right or left turn circuit. So if one side works and the other side doesn't, the problem might be electrical grounds on one side or in the turn signal switch itself.

The shop manual says to disconnect the signal switch connector from the body harness at the steering column. Connect a spare turn signal switch to the body harness and see if the problem is fixed. (Of course this assumes you have access to a spare switch.) BTW, virtually any GM switch (standard column, tilt, T&T, etc) with the same connector could be used.
Jim

 

Jim,

I think you might be on the right track since I just changed the flasher and it did not fix the problem. Since the turn signals worked fine up until last week can I assume that the switch went bad? I think it would be odd that a ground suddenly goes bad creating thhis sort of problem or am I wrong in making that assumption?

 

Classic symptoms of bad ground.

Could be ground wires or internally in the sockets.
Check with 4 way hazard switch or brake lites. Both use the same wiring, bulb and ground.
If any of these work, then you test for the switch.

 

I've already checked the brake lights and they work; would that suggest a bad switch? If so, does that require disassembly of the steering column? I have a Tilt / Telescopic wheel and would not be looking forward to that.

 

There is probably as much chance of a grounding wire suddenly going bad as there is for a turn signal switch suddenly going bad.

I would suggest that you try and beg, borrow, or steal a spare turn signal switch so you can connect it to your cars electrical circuit to check for a bad switch. Removing and replacing a switch from a T&T column is not all that bad, but I can think of better things to do with about 3 or 4 hours time.

The turn signal switch can be removed and replaced without removing the steering column from the car. However, it is my opinion that working on the steering column is far easier if it is out of the car. I have complete instructions on removing the turn signal switch as well as removing the steering column from the car. You only need two special tools. You need a steering wheel hub puller and you need a locking plate compressor tool so that the locking plate can be depressed a short distance while you remove the C-clip that holds the locking plate in place. These tools can usually be borrowed from your local Autozone or other automotive retailers.

Go to this websight:
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/

Click on: Corvette Steering Papers in the right column

Scroll down to the the bottom and click on the following:
Tilt & Telescoping Column 69-82 Disassembly & Repair Papers #1 and #2
Tilt & Telescoping Column 69-82 Disassembly & Repair Pics #1

Oh, by the way, you will most likely find that after removing the steering wheel and hub that there is a plastic retainer that is down on the steering column shaft. When you try and pry it up and off of the steering shaft, (this is just before you use the locking plate compressor tool) it will most likely crumble into many pieces.
It can be purchased from GM dealers part #7808385 - Retainer
Or from the Zip Store part #SC-517 Cancelling Cam Plastic Retainer

Without the retainer the big spring that is attached to your steering wheel hub will touch metal column parts and your horn will blow continuously. So even though they only call it a retainer, it is also an insulator.

Good luck,
Don't forget that additional help is only a computor click away!
Jim

 

You have a bad light bulb somewhere. If the directional in the dash stays lit, you have a bad bulb. Check each bulb with a ohm meter or take a nine volt battery and see if it lights. Sometimes a bulb looks good but the filamint is broken.

 

Or just replace 'em all. Bulbs are cheap.

 

I've already changed the bulbs and the flasher; I have a feeling it's much mmore involved like Jim is suggesting.

 

my '79 sat in storage a number of years, when i got it out and up and running my right signal worked normally but my left would blink like once every 4 seconds. I sprayed WD-40 into the blinker switch and worked the blinker switch in both left & right directions a number of times as i continually sprayed.Turned the key on, hit my left blinker, it has worked perfectly ever since

 

Exactly where did you spray the WD-40? My car was rarely driven until I bought it. The blinkers worked fine up until a week ago but, I'm willing to try anything that will help me avoid taking the steering column out to change the switch.

 

I sprayed it inside the steering column at the blinker switch the handle ties into, above and below the switch handle as i switched it. I'd put a rag down on the floor overnight, my car didn't have any interior in it at the time.

 

Thanks Thriller; I'll have to give that a try. If that doesn't work I'm afraid I'll be installing a new switch.

 

Here's the latest update:

1) Sprayed WD-40; no change
2) turned hazards on; all lights flashed except the driver's side front. This bulb was the one that gave me so much trouble when I tried to remove the bulb. I eventually had to break the bulb and remove the metal end with needle nose pliers.
3) When I turn the parking lights on the driver's side bulbs seem to be brighter than the pass. side.
4) If I manually blink the driver's side bulbs by switching the turn signal lever; the rear tail light gets brighter like normal but, the front bulb just stays bright.

Now what?

 

With the bulbs out on the problem side, test with a test lite all the functions directly to the contacts in the socket.
Do it 2 ways
1- by grounding to the socket ground.
2- by grounding to the battery or known good ground.

Not common but, these sockets do go bad internally and it only takes one on a side.

 

Turns out that the light socket was bad. I have successfully changed out the socket but, am unsure about the proper steps that I need to take in order to swap the fiber optics into the new socket. I was able to push the entire amber glass piece out the back of the old turn signal but the new signal socket came with an amber piece as well.

Any suggestions would be appreciated; I don't want to damage the fiber optics by getting too impatient or trying something stupid.

Thanks