Is this stuff as good as they say it is? Does it ever chip...or is that all just a hoax? is it worth the money?


1) After i sandblast the frame, do I have to use any chemicals to prep it before using your product? What about the areas that I used rust converter on...can I just sandblast those and paint over them afterwards...or do I have to prep the metal after sandblasting?

2) Can I do the frame in sections over a week or two ...or do you recommend painting it all at once. I was thinking that I could possibly sandblast one section of the frame, coat it once with por15 and do the same the following day with a new section, until the whole frame was totally coated once. I would probably coat the entire frame again the next day for a total of two coats. Would this affect its bonding characteristics?

3) Can I apply por15 to previously rusted surfaces that have been sandblasted to a clean metal surface? what surface preparation is required here?

4) After I sandblast the frame, do I have to keep my hands off of it until it is coated with por15? I'm referring to oils on your skin. Do you recommend painting the frame quickly after you sandblast it...or can I touch the frame without any worries of removing por15's bonding capabilities? This is a hobby to me and I have a limited amount of time I can work on it each day of the week...I'm very busy.


Thanks in advance for all of the help guys!

 

If you are sandblasting, you are better off just using automotive paint. The por will get chalky. After blasting, it's best to not tough the bare metal. Blow off any sand or dust, etch prime, seal, and paint. You don't need to wipe the frame down before you paint, or the rough metal will hold fuzz from your rags.

 

you will get differing opinions, but i reccomend the stuff as long as it used and prepped right.

in you case since you are blastine the fram you can do one of two things

POR 15 is not meant to go on bare metal witout prep, you can either use thier metal ready product, or use a self etching primer

you can do the frame in sections with no problem , just remeber to prep the bare metal before applying the POR 15.

if you are brushing the stuff on , it goes one pretty thick,and a second coat may not be required. If spaying, be sure to thin it some then wait 30 min between coats, but either way, dont wait more than an hour or so between coats.

for question 4, same rules apply....metal ready then apply the POR as per the directions.


I am not sure about appying POR over rust converter, best to call them and ask...

also POR is UV sensitive, and while on the frame its not an issue since it wont see sun, a top coat over doent hurt.

The way I did it was to blast the frame, applied a self etching primer then applyied the POR, and the results were great...

other wise apply directly to the rusted areas, thought the fished product wont be as nice.

good luck and remeber this....

after use, make sure the seal the canister TIGHT... if you dont, the stuff will turn into a lumpy goo that is totally useless, and the stuff is pricey....


overall i say its a good product when used as directed( naysayers welcome to disagree )

also, Eastwood makes a simlar product that is not UV sensitive, you may also want to consider......
cheers

tim

 

Is it extremely hard to chip por15? I'm going to drive my vette after the restoration, cars need exercise.

 

In my experience, it's extremely tough. I've done parts of my frame and it work very well. The only reason you would need to remove rust is for appearance purposes because the POR15 is intended to adhere to the rust. If you get down to bare metal, I'd use their etcher.

 

I would disagree with this, having sandblasted all of my parts and then applied POR 15 over the bare metal. The company states that sandblasted metal is actually one of the best surfaces for application. POR 15 likes metal with "bite", and that's exactly what you get from sandblasting.



Steve

 

I just por15'd my 73 frame a few months ago. First sanblasting, then as a precaution I etched the frame (inside and out 2 quarts). I used a siphon gun to spray inside the frame and all seams and welds and then 2 coats of por 15 followed by 1 coat of por 15 gloss black topcoat all with a paint brush. It came out great. It took 2 quarts of por 15 and 1 quart of top coat.

 

You might try Rust Encapsulator from Eastwood, I have a PDF of a comparison that was done by Auto Restorer magazine. This is a magazine that takes no advertising, but has a lot of good information on restoration. Send me a note if you want a copy.
gbryning@comcast.net

 

Good timing, I just finished the rest of the '76s components last night after doing the frame last weekend. I sandblasted everything and then etched it all with a phosphoric acid wash. I used the POR 15 and then topcoated with their Chassis Black. I brushed it on pretty thick and the stuff flows out great. The only bummer is that it takes about 5 days to totally cure.

When it is dry it is tough as nails, you can hit it with a hammer and it won't chip.

 

I've used both POR-15 and the Eastwood product (rust encapsulator) and in both cases what sweethence has posted is true. Simply put, read the manufacturers recommendations, and follow them... exactly.

As for which I think is better... I guess I'd say the Eastwood product only because it's less expensive. They're both tough as hell when applied properly.

Eastwood keeps burying me in catalogs and I think they have widened their product line for R.E.. I don't know about POR-15. My use of both these products dates back about 2 years.

Oh, and if you spray any of these products get a mask on. You do not want this stuff in your lungs... or on your skin unless you really like the color.

But most importantly PREP AND APPLY EXACTLY THE WAY THEY TELL YOU."

 

I have used both the POR and Eastwoods products. I like the POR metal ready and balck paint but use Eastwoods paints for top coats.

I glass bead all my jobs, use POR15 Metal Ready for 30 minutes, rinse, dry, and then POR15 black, when just about dry I'll shoot the top coat and then let dry and harden a few days.

If I paint over rust it will peel in time. If fact it fails pretty bad, coming off in strips. If prepped then it stays on. I've have steering box that was exposed to high heat and the top caot cracked but the POR15 base didn't.

 

[QUOTE=sweethence]

also POR is UV sensitive, and while on the frame its not an issue since it wont see sun, a top coat over doent hurt.


I put por on my truck frame where it's out of the sun, and it still got chalky. If your metal is blasted clean, use an automotive paint. Por 15 has it's place, but so many people think it's magic.