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Second thoughts on a cam choice.

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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 04:00 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Little Mouse
As long as you have a flex plate for a 400 small block they are external
balance if you are taking one off a 350 they are internal balance and
wont work. factory 400 cranks are external balanced at both the
balancer and flexplate/flywheel.

Yeah, I was gonna grind the factory crank, re-use the flex plate, and use a new balancer.
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 07:06 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by I'm Batman
Stupid 400 SBC question: I have a forged steel racing crank that is supposed to be set up for 5.7" rods. Do I still need to use 5.7" pistons, or should I use regular 400 pistons?
NOT stupid Q! ... when a crank spec reads "5.7 rod" ... it usually implies MINIMUM 5.7" rod ... that the counterweight OD is small enough to fit most 5.7" rods & 5.7" pistons' skirt when cylinder is at BDC ... that the cw OD is too large for 5.565" OE 400 rod & 400 piston combo @ BDC. In all likelyhood, your "5.7 rod" crank can easily use 6" rod & piston for 6" rod. Also, typically a 6" rod-piston combo is lighter than same rod-piston in 5.7". With sbc 3.75" stroke, typical pistons with 5.7" rods measure about 1.425" from center of pin hole to top of edge of piston ("compression distance or height") ... w/ 6" rods typical cd about 1.125" ... w/OE 400 rods (5.565") cd about 1.560".
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 08:19 PM
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So say I build this motor as I have panned thus far. Will the Hot Cam work well for my motor...which I plan for lower RPMs and lots of torque and cruising...?

Even with the shorter rod, will I suffer cyl bore problems if I don't abuse the motor and play int he highest of RPMs too often?

When I first designed this engine a few people, mostly Third Gen Camaro guys, all said this was a good build and I wouldn't have problems with it.
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 08:37 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Okay, so reading this, all I need to do is buy some 5.7" rods, and the crank I have and the piston heads I have will work? Will this put the compression over 10.0:1, and will I have to get a different than stock head gasket?

Yes, I plan on having the crank ground down and get oversized bearings. I have never had an assembly balanced...how is this done?
The crank will work. If you have 400 20 over pistons for a stock 400 rod 5.565 they will not work with a 5.7 rod. So you need new pistons and new rods to go with a 5.7 rod. If you are buying new pistons and new rods anyway why not go with 6" rods and matching pistons? Or use what you got and don't push the motor. Now we are back to my original response. Sell your pistons and crank (Ebay). Buy a Balanced, Matched , Forged Rotating assembly for $1100 bucks. Includes pistons, pins, rods, crank, rings, bearings, all new, all matched, all balanced, all forged. It will be better in the long run to go this route. No crank grinding, no undersized bearings, no balancing costs, no mis matched parts, stronger by far and a more correct ratio. A good strong foundation to build on for future upgrades. DO IT ONCE, DO IT RIGHT! You are looking at saving a couple hundred bucks to do it the other way. Is it worth it? Your call. I know I am repeating myself but have been down this road quite a few times and this is the lesson I have learned. DO IT ONCE, DO IT RIGHT! You posted this question to get opinions. This is mine and a lot of others as well! You push that stock 5.565 rod motor much it won't last like the forged 6" rod motor.

Last edited by 63mako; Oct 8, 2006 at 09:03 PM.
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 08:38 PM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by 63mako
The crank will work. If you have 400 20 over pistons for a stock 400 rod 5.565 they will not work with a 5.7 rod. So you need new pistons and new rods. If you are buying new pistons and new rods anyway why not go with 6" rods and matching pistons? Or use what you got and don't push the motor.

I'm good at restraining myself or at least being carefull with my RPMs.
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 09:24 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
I'm good at restraining myself or at least being carefull with my RPMs.
I"m not
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 09:26 PM
  #67  
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How much will it cost for a machine shop to grind the crank
redo the rods with new rod bolts and rebalance. by the time you
do that the cost may be half what a new balanced 6.0 rod
assembly will cost.
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 09:52 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
I have never had an assembly balanced...how is this done?
To internally ballance an assembly, the machine shop weighs the pistons & rods and matches them usually within + or - 2 grams of each other. Removes material or adds material to get it there. The crank is spun at a specific RPM on a machine to get perfect truness...then they add or remove material from the counter weights to get it there. Your pressure plate (4-speed) and crank dampner is also done to turn true. Don't know what they do for an automatic trans?????
My Wisco forged pistons & Eagle forged rods were within spec out of the box, but my Scatt crank had to be done over again when I switched from hyperutectic to forged pistons.
Good luck
Eddie
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Old Oct 8, 2006 | 10:02 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Little Mouse
How much will it cost for a machine shop to grind the crank
redo the rods with new rod bolts and rebalance. by the time you
do that the cost may be half what a new balanced 6.0 rod
assembly will cost.
Get a piece of paper. Go through all the posts and add up what the actual costs will be to have a machine shop do all the work to make what you have work correctly. Don't forget to also add in reconditioning the rod ends, buying and having new pin bushings installed and purchasing undersized bearings. Then subtract what you can sell your pistons, rods and crank for on Ebay. Do the math before you make the decision. The weak link in the chain always breaks. Really hate to be the one to say "I told you so" on one of your posts next year! Then figure out what it would cost to redo it if you do have a problem. That $1100 FORGED rotating assembly might look a little better when you add it all up. Saving a couple hundred now could cost a couple thousand later plus labor and inconveniance to remove and replace engine.

Last edited by 63mako; Oct 8, 2006 at 10:19 PM.
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 09:28 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by 63mako
That $1100 FORGED rotating assembly might look a little better when you add it all up. Saving a couple hundred now could cost a couple thousand later plus labor and inconveniance to remove and replace engine.

Well, you would think so except I have already bought EVERYTHING but the main and rod bearings and I have not had the crank ground yet. I have purchased EVERYTHING else, and I doubt it's worth a lot to anyone on Ebay. I think this motor will get built the way I had originally planned. Now, back to the cam qustion. Will a Hot Cam do me well. I know a better one exists, but will I suffer from things like fall-off idle and low vacuum?

That's all I really need, because I'm at the point in it's build where I need to change the cam now or hold my peace.
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 09:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Well, you would think so except I have already bought EVERYTHING but the main and rod bearings and I have not had the crank ground yet. I have purchased EVERYTHING else, and I doubt it's worth a lot to anyone on Ebay. I think this motor will get built the way I had originally planned. Now, back to the cam qustion. Will a Hot Cam do me well. I know a better one exists, but will I suffer from things like fall-off idle and low vacuum?

That's all I really need, because I'm at the point in it's build where I need to change the cam now or hold my peace.
You should have a great idle with the hot cam. You are not running much duration for a 400 cube motor so your vacuum will be very good at idle. The hot cam will be real stump puller from idle to about 5000 rpm. Should do just what you want it for.
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Gordonm
You should have a great idle with the hot cam. You are not running much duration for a 400 cube motor so your vacuum will be very good at idle. The hot cam will be real stump puller from idle to about 5000 rpm. Should do just what you want it for.

Perfect. Thanks Gord. That's exactly what I wanted to hear.
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 11:27 AM
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Imagine young Mr. Nimrod flies he & I in his light private aircraft to a Saturday AM show at a strip 200 miles from home. We've planned to begin return flight early-evening. We have good weather en route and a great get together. Lotsa coffee, BS & friendship. But as we're preparing to return ... the weather radio & (someone else's) radar indicates an ominous, slow-moving front has blanketed most of our return route with thunderstorms, hail & gale winds imbedded w/tornadoes. The other pilots (many more experienced than Mr. N) tell us we'd better not fly. When Mr. N replies that we're gonna fly and we'll probably be OK, most of the those same pilots tell us we're nuts but it was nice knowing us.

Do you think we should fly then? ... or ... go get a rental car and bear the added expense of retrieving aircraft later?

No doubt in my mind ... if Mr. N flies, he'll do it solo ... I've arranged a rental car. As Mr. N lifts off, I'm hoping he makes it home OK ... but my gut tells me I'll spend Monday evening at the visitation ... w/ the widow Nimrod.

The analogy differs mostly in that a hot street motor with crappy internals probably won't draw blood ... only $, time & lotsa face. That's my tale & I'm sittin' on it. G'Luck DB!
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 11:30 AM
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Well, you would think so except I have already bought EVERYTHING but the main and rod bearings and I have not had the crank ground yet. I have purchased EVERYTHING else, and I doubt it's worth a lot to anyone on Ebay. I think this motor will get built the way I had originally planned. Now, back to the cam qustion. Will a Hot Cam do me well. I know a better one exists, but will I suffer from things like fall-off idle and low vacuum?

That's all I really need, because I'm at the point in it's build where I need to change the cam now or hold my peace.
Ok. Take it your not reconditioning the rods ends, installing new pin bushings or balancing the assembly and still got to have the crank ground. Good luck on your flight home son. Cam should work great for as long as she stays together!

Last edited by 63mako; Oct 9, 2006 at 08:37 PM.
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by jackson
Imagine young Mr. Nimrod flies he & I in his light private aircraft to a Saturday AM show at a strip 200 miles from home. We've planned to begin return flight early-evening. We have good weather en route and a great get together. Lotsa coffee, BS & friendship. But as we're preparing to return ... the weather radio & (someone else's) radar indicates an ominous, slow-moving front has blanketed most of our return route with thunderstorms, hail & gale winds imbedded w/tornadoes. The other pilots (many more experienced than Mr. N) tell us we'd better not fly. When Mr. N replies that we're gonna fly and we'll probably be OK, most of the those same pilots tell us we're nuts but it was nice knowing us.

Do you think we should fly then? ... or ... go get a rental car and bear the added expense of retrieving aircraft later?

No doubt in my mind ... if Mr. N flies, he'll do it solo ... I've arranged a rental car. As Mr. N lifts off, I'm hoping he makes it home OK ... but my gut tells me I'll spend Monday evening at the visitation ... w/ the widow Nimrod.

The analogy differs mostly in that a hot street motor with crappy internals probably won't draw blood ... only $, time & lotsa face. That's my tale & I'm sittin' on it. G'Luck DB!
Hey Jackson, comfort young Mrs. Nimrod for me!
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 08:58 PM
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Don't say we didn't warn ya

Let me see now if I have this correct. 406ci with stock 5.565" rods and pistons, 350ci cam and 180cc heads ?
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by MotorHead
Don't say we didn't warn ya

Let me see now if I have this correct. 406ci with stock 5.565" rods and pistons, 350ci cam and 180cc heads ?
Think the heads are 165 CC If anyone knows it would be you, that the key to a sucessful engine build is well matched components carb to pan!

Last edited by 63mako; Oct 9, 2006 at 09:07 PM.
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Old Oct 9, 2006 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by 63mako
Ok. Take it your not reconditioning the rods ends, installing new pin bushings or balancing the assembly and still got to have the crank ground. Good luck on your flight home son. Cam should work great for as long as she stays together!

The new pistons came with new pins, and they are getting conditioned when the pistons are swapped.
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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Durango_boy
The new pistons came with new pins, and they are getting conditioned when the pistons are swapped.
The big end of used rods need to be reconditioned before being reused. The small end of the rod needs new bushings installed and fitted for the new pins before being reused. 2 seperate things. Both cost $. Rotating assembly must also be balanced, more $. Grinding crank More $. Do what you want. Sounds like you will anyway. Don't mean to be a smart a**, Just trying to help.
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