Bleeding brakes
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 1
From: San Diego CA
Bleeding brakes
My manual brakes went from firm to all the way to the floor after 2 months of sitting in the garage. I started with bleeding the left rear and the bleeder valve broke straight off inside the caliper. Next week I'll attempt to remove the remainder to the beeder valve with an easy out but until then a few questions:
1. What is the order of bleeding the calipers? ie, LR, RR, RF, LF
2. Is the only way to figure out if the master cylinder is bad is to first try to bleed all the calipers?
3. If the master cylinder is bad and I I have to replace I'll go to power brakes. With a Demon 750 the intake vacuum port is plugged becuase the rear fuel bowl sits so close to the intake it's impossible to have a tee. If I use a carb spacer than I have to buy an entire new hood so screw that idea. If I go power brakes where can I tie off for the brakes? Usually the brakes have a dedicted vacuum source and my only vacuum connection on the Demon feeds the headlight/ window wiper door as well as the left PCV.
(update) I bought the entire CC power brake conversion kit with everything. Please someone post the instructions to bench bleeding a master cylinder.. Thanks,
David
1. What is the order of bleeding the calipers? ie, LR, RR, RF, LF
2. Is the only way to figure out if the master cylinder is bad is to first try to bleed all the calipers?
3. If the master cylinder is bad and I I have to replace I'll go to power brakes. With a Demon 750 the intake vacuum port is plugged becuase the rear fuel bowl sits so close to the intake it's impossible to have a tee. If I use a carb spacer than I have to buy an entire new hood so screw that idea. If I go power brakes where can I tie off for the brakes? Usually the brakes have a dedicted vacuum source and my only vacuum connection on the Demon feeds the headlight/ window wiper door as well as the left PCV.
(update) I bought the entire CC power brake conversion kit with everything. Please someone post the instructions to bench bleeding a master cylinder.. Thanks,
David
Last edited by Cali,68,L-79; Oct 9, 2006 at 01:20 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 10,362
Likes: 5
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
hey buddy how are ya? Have'nt seen you around here much.
Rear calipers have inside AND outside bleeders. In order: right rear INNER, left rear INNER, right rear OUTER, left rear OUTER, right front and left front.
If the master is in question pull it off, and look behind it. If it's wet behind it then it's bad. If you cannot get pressure from the bleeders, then it may be bad but no guarantees. I have a suction brake bleeder if you want to borrow it.
Call me tomorrow if you do want it, because Monday we leave for Europe til the end of the month. You're more than welcome to the bleeder if you need it.
--Paul
Rear calipers have inside AND outside bleeders. In order: right rear INNER, left rear INNER, right rear OUTER, left rear OUTER, right front and left front.
If the master is in question pull it off, and look behind it. If it's wet behind it then it's bad. If you cannot get pressure from the bleeders, then it may be bad but no guarantees. I have a suction brake bleeder if you want to borrow it.
Call me tomorrow if you do want it, because Monday we leave for Europe til the end of the month. You're more than welcome to the bleeder if you need it.
--Paul
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,750
Likes: 1,391
I would recommend a pressure bleeder...
You can buy one or make one. Made my life a lot easier once I made one.
On my 68 the master cylinder had deterioriated within the cylinder walls. I would get them bled and a month later they'd be weak again. I replaced the master cylinder with new one from NAPA and it's all been good for about a year. It's not exactly as original, no bleeders on the master cylinder reservoir, but it works fine. I kept the old one so I can get it rebuilt someday (yeah right, I'll probably just store it the rest of my life).
On my 68 the master cylinder had deterioriated within the cylinder walls. I would get them bled and a month later they'd be weak again. I replaced the master cylinder with new one from NAPA and it's all been good for about a year. It's not exactly as original, no bleeders on the master cylinder reservoir, but it works fine. I kept the old one so I can get it rebuilt someday (yeah right, I'll probably just store it the rest of my life).
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 6,938
Likes: 1
From: San Diego CA
Well I have answers to everything except how to hook up the vaacum tee.
"With a Demon 750 the intake vacuum port is plugged becuase the rear fuel bowl sits so close to the intake it's impossible to have a tee. If I use a carb spacer than I have to buy an entire new hood so screw that idea. If I go power brakes where can I tie off for the brakes? Usually the brakes have a dedicted vacuum source and my only vacuum connection on the Demon feeds the headlight/ window wiper door as well as the left PCV."
The vacuum connection is off the rear right intake runner and the gap between the heat shield and the flush cap is 1/4" and the gap between the heat shield and fuel bowl is 1/2". I'd have to cut up the heat shield and the 90 degree tee and it still might not clear the rear fuel bowl.
"With a Demon 750 the intake vacuum port is plugged becuase the rear fuel bowl sits so close to the intake it's impossible to have a tee. If I use a carb spacer than I have to buy an entire new hood so screw that idea. If I go power brakes where can I tie off for the brakes? Usually the brakes have a dedicted vacuum source and my only vacuum connection on the Demon feeds the headlight/ window wiper door as well as the left PCV."
The vacuum connection is off the rear right intake runner and the gap between the heat shield and the flush cap is 1/4" and the gap between the heat shield and fuel bowl is 1/2". I'd have to cut up the heat shield and the 90 degree tee and it still might not clear the rear fuel bowl.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
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From: Forked River NJ
My Victor Jr intake had no port for vacuum at all. I have a hydroboost but I still needed a port for the headlights. I drilled and tapped the back of the intake and put in my own fitting. You can tap in anywhere you would like to get vacuum on the intake. There are veery flat vacuum tees that also work. A few people here have used them with the intake and carb you have.
