Hey TT, I have to admit you kinda lost me after the first post, not hijacking but what are your thoughts on my set up, a little education won't hurt me. You can send it to my email if you wish so we don't screw up this thread
David

 

http://www.flexusautomation.com/corvette.htm

 

I'll just reply here, I think your setup is the bomb That's why I built something that is very much alike, the double a arm suspension is the most refined of all and has the best suspension control, the only drawback is that it can't fit in tight spaces..nothing a little cutting won't fix I still am jealous of your telescopic halfshafts, they are what I need also my stub axles are not floating (removed the c-clip) and don't move in/out a lot, something like 3 mm max but I'd rather have the c-clips and a telescopic shaft so that there's full spline engagement and no wear from them sliding in and out. I think I found a source for those shafts, word has it that there's a car at the NCM...just have to bring some wrenches and I'm all set

This is my setup, see how alike it is? I have the toe setting in the lower arm, you have it in the upper one, your frame inner support structure is different but the idea is the same:




Hard to see...I'll have to shoot some pics on a lift some day




This is roughly what you have:


As for the 5 bar C4 type suspension, check out the guldstrand 5 bar or the greenwood one, the greenwood one is very similar to what I had built:
[mig]http://greenwoodcorvettes.com/Street%20Cars/GTO/suspension5%20link.jpg[/img]



this shows the rear toe control rods, you can see them also here, this is the 80-82 version, very close to the thing I built:

 

TT, you might be able to get what you need made by an off-road shop. Those guys make custom slip-center driveshafts all the time. All a halfshaft is is a short driveshaft that runs perpendicular to the direction of motion. Shipping to Europe might be pricey, though.

 

Dennys driveshaft will be able to do it, most off roaders use only 1310 or 1330 sliding shafts, dennys will proably do them for 1350s also...however, a set of used viper shafts is cheaper shrotening them is not that hard. Maybe I can even get it done locally, using 2 sections of 1350 halfshafts (can get those) and then arrange the sliding center piece.

 

What was the recent thread that photo of half shatft that "looked" very much like mine, they were stock pieces, Viper, Jag, I don't remember. It would be nice to use off the shelf item for ease of replacement. It's not easy or cheap when anything you break has to be custom made.
About half my set up is Greenwood, half is custom beefed up Greenwood clone pieces, due to rear suspension failures in 1977. Niether is readily available.

 

They apparently were DeTomaso Pantera parts...Pantera parts are crazy expensive

I don't mind custom, most everything on my car is custom, if something breaks I can't get it off the shelf anyway

 

TT is right in that the double A-arm rear setups are darn nice, and they don't fit in tight spaces. I wanted to updated my '69 suspension, but unless I want to cut out the rear storage boxes I simply don't have the space to mount A-arms. That's why I gravitated to an '84-87 rear suspension (the wheel bearing carriers/knuckles are narrower than the 88-96 carriers). This installation required a ton of cutting on the (spare) frame, but the body remains untouched.

 

Good thing my car and I both have wide a$$e$$ I guess

 

If anybody is interested I have a Greenwood 5-link New in the box for sale... Crash
crash_enterprises@yahoo.com

 

I have a 6 link. Have had it for years and I really like it.
It keeps the tires planted flat on the pavement. I run soft rear springs and yes the rearend squats on takeoff but I also have no camber change so the tires stay flat.
Yes there is a toe issue but I am not about to destroy my battery boxes and cut up the car to completely redesign the rearend.
I like the idea that my yokes are not longer hitting the pin, they have had the clips removed and the end ground down back to the groove so they completely float.
I like the idea that I can pull them in a few minutes to check spline condition or change a seal or bearing.
I like the upper strut rod keeping the twist out of the trailing arm due to me having coilovers offset to the inside of each arm.
I have also read good test reports on the 6 link.
Don't make a bracket, bolt it to the rearend and then bolt the rearend to the crossmember. Just weld a stud in the right location directly to the crossmember and be done with it.
Get a 13.5 inch upper strut rod, that dimension is center to center of the rod eyes.
Be very careful to align the lower strut rod, the universal and the upper strut rod pivit points.
I also run a big 1 1/4 rear sway bar and short arms.
Good luck.

 

From reviewing this thread and looking at the associated CAD diagrams; it appears that the stock setup (no smart camber) would be better for road racing/autocrossing or just turning in general. This would be due to negative camber gain and decreased toe change (at least through some part of upward suspension travel) during corning with the stock mounting locations.

Is this correct?

 

There are bunches of outfits that make gt40 shafts which are essentially the same as the pantera and widebody's. South Africa, US, Australia, and surprisingly the biggest source is probably England.
Like most things, if you find the right source, price should be reasonable.

Hollman Moody in the Carolina's revamped the first Pantera's that were shipped over and also worked on an original Leman's gt40. I know they can make the shafts.