Body prep question
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 10,189
Likes: 206
2018 Corvette of Year Finalist
2017 C3 of Year
Body prep question
Ran a search, and it seems everyone has a preference on how to strip the paint. My method of choice was to use a combination of the razor method along with Capt. Lee's chemical stripper. Now after removing the paint I found many areas that were filled, mainly bonding lines with some fiberglass repairs. Is there a product that should be used to remove any residual chemical, and is it nec. to remove all the filler? The searchs said that any stripper that was absorbed into the fiberglass or filler could haunt me in the future??? TIA WB
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 8,918
Likes: 27
From: New Hill NC
Looks like you stopped at the factory primer. Remove that by water sanding with 220-240 grit. Then grind out any old repairs and the seams. Re-surface those areas. If there are places that the stripper frayed up the fibers, it is a good idea to grind and fill those areas too.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
War Bonnet - Are those spacers on the front hubs?
As far as the stripping and prepping...you're on the right track. A clean water sand will make sure that nothing is absorbed into the filled spots but water, which will be dry after the surface is prepped. Once everything is sanded and cleaned, go back over and clean again with a "Paint Prep". It will get more than you thought was still on the surface.
Then, shoot a coat of primer. Wait until it dries. Go over it with a bottle of water, spraying here and there and looking for high/low spots. Mark them and continue.
Once you have them marked, sand down any high spots and fill any low spots. Re-coat with primer, and lightly sand the entire thing with a fine grit until smooth. You will be able to see ANY imperfections or high/low spots just by sanding this way. If you find more...tend to them as needed, and you're ready for a real coat of primer.
As far as the stripping and prepping...you're on the right track. A clean water sand will make sure that nothing is absorbed into the filled spots but water, which will be dry after the surface is prepped. Once everything is sanded and cleaned, go back over and clean again with a "Paint Prep". It will get more than you thought was still on the surface.
Then, shoot a coat of primer. Wait until it dries. Go over it with a bottle of water, spraying here and there and looking for high/low spots. Mark them and continue.
Once you have them marked, sand down any high spots and fill any low spots. Re-coat with primer, and lightly sand the entire thing with a fine grit until smooth. You will be able to see ANY imperfections or high/low spots just by sanding this way. If you find more...tend to them as needed, and you're ready for a real coat of primer.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 10,189
Likes: 206
2018 Corvette of Year Finalist
2017 C3 of Year
Originally Posted by wombvette
Looks like you stopped at the factory primer. Remove that by water sanding with 220-240 grit. Then grind out any old repairs and the seams. Re-surface those areas. If there are places that the stripper frayed up the fibers, it is a good idea to grind and fill those areas too.
Thanks WB
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 10,189
Likes: 206
2018 Corvette of Year Finalist
2017 C3 of Year
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
War Bonnet - Are those spacers on the front hubs?
As far as the stripping and prepping...you're on the right track. A clean water sand will make sure that nothing is absorbed into the filled spots but water, which will be dry after the surface is prepped. Once everything is sanded and cleaned, go back over and clean again with a "Paint Prep". It will get more than you thought was still on the surface.
As far as the stripping and prepping...you're on the right track. A clean water sand will make sure that nothing is absorbed into the filled spots but water, which will be dry after the surface is prepped. Once everything is sanded and cleaned, go back over and clean again with a "Paint Prep". It will get more than you thought was still on the surface.
Thanks for the above, thats about as far as I'll take it, then off to the pro's
WB
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by War Bonnet
Durango boy, Yes they are spacers sitting on the front, previous owner had these fat tires on the car I guess they hit!
Thanks for the above, thats about as far as I'll take it, then off to the pro's WB
Thanks for the above, thats about as far as I'll take it, then off to the pro's
WBOh come on. Nothing feels better than laying down the last coat of clear, and waiting for the surface to flash enough to wet sand. I hate wet sanding and buffing, but it means everything went smooth enough to not have to re-do it all...
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Racer
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 352
Likes: 0
From: Frisco, TX
Water does a great job of neutralizing the stripper. This is especially important to know if you get it on your skin. About two thirds of the way through stripping my project I switched to this new BioSafe stuff:
http://www.orisonmarketing.com/clean...t/biosafe.html
I was quite happy with the results. It is a bit more expensive than the standard stripper, but it seems to last longer. It doesn't dry out nearly as fast as the other stripper. It just seems to keep on working and stops at Gelcoat or factory fiberglass. It also cleans up with water.
I agree with using the scotch brite to finish of the last bit of primer, but make sure to stay away from the edges. You don't want to round off the beauty lines of the car as those can be a real PITA to put back.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 10,189
Likes: 206
2018 Corvette of Year Finalist
2017 C3 of Year
Originally Posted by bondoboy
After using paint stripper, wash the car with soap and water using a red scotch brite. Water neutralizes the stripper.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by War Bonnet
I read that you should not use soap as it is very difficult to remove it's residue? Most suggested just water. Thanks WB
Soap, if using the wrong kind, will leave residue, similar to an oily waxy feel. It's harder to clean it off than you think, and it's hard to get it all. I wash with water and an abrasive sponge. Then after it dries I use paint prep. It'll get anything that's left. Tack cloths really help to see if you have anything left ont he surface to clean.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 22
From: Yooperville MI
Water with a small amount of mild dish soap and a Scotchbrite pad is sufficient to remove the stripper residue. You'll be rinsing as you scrub, so there won't be any soap residue. After the big water bath I recommend letting the body sit for a week or so to ensure the fiberglass is dry in case water was absorbed into any areas and trapped. Prior to primer, use glass cleaner and paper towel to remove dirt and non-oily contaminates followed with wax and grease remover to remove oily and solvent based contaminates.
One of the best primers to seal glass bodies is PPG DPLF. Use your fillers and K36 sanding primer over the DPLF.
One of the best primers to seal glass bodies is PPG DPLF. Use your fillers and K36 sanding primer over the DPLF.
Instructor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 229
Likes: 0
From: Oreland PA
I use mild soap and a scotch brite (scuff pad)
I then finished stripping the factory primer with a DA sander and 180 grit paper. I gave each panel a coat of Evercoat then sanded them straight. (personal preference) I used Sherwin Williams Ultra fill. They call it Spectra Prime with Ure Flex. I primered, blocked with 220 dry and primered again.
Then I sanded with 400 the 500 and painted it with DuPont BC/CC. I haven't rubbed it yet. One of these days.
If you have any questions let me know. I think I saw your car at Wings Field....nice
I then finished stripping the factory primer with a DA sander and 180 grit paper. I gave each panel a coat of Evercoat then sanded them straight. (personal preference) I used Sherwin Williams Ultra fill. They call it Spectra Prime with Ure Flex. I primered, blocked with 220 dry and primered again.
Then I sanded with 400 the 500 and painted it with DuPont BC/CC. I haven't rubbed it yet. One of these days.
If you have any questions let me know. I think I saw your car at Wings Field....nice
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 10,189
Likes: 206
2018 Corvette of Year Finalist
2017 C3 of Year
Originally Posted by ajstr1265
I use mild soap and a scotch brite (scuff pad)
I then finished stripping the factory primer with a DA sander and 180 grit paper. I gave each panel a coat of Evercoat then sanded them straight. (personal preference) I used Sherwin Williams Ultra fill. They call it Spectra Prime with Ure Flex. I primered, blocked with 220 dry and primered again.
Then I sanded with 400 the 500 and painted it with DuPont BC/CC. I haven't rubbed it yet. One of these days.
If you have any questions let me know. I think I saw your car at Wings Field....nice
I then finished stripping the factory primer with a DA sander and 180 grit paper. I gave each panel a coat of Evercoat then sanded them straight. (personal preference) I used Sherwin Williams Ultra fill. They call it Spectra Prime with Ure Flex. I primered, blocked with 220 dry and primered again.
Then I sanded with 400 the 500 and painted it with DuPont BC/CC. I haven't rubbed it yet. One of these days.
If you have any questions let me know. I think I saw your car at Wings Field....nice
With all the remaining work that is needed on this project car, I feel my money will be well spent using a pro painter. Rebuilding the motor, installing the interior, finding a manual trans and installing it I can do. I've already fabricated new windshield pillars and welded them in, along with some rusted metal under the dash. Another reason for using a body shop for the paint work is that I have one within walking distance,and willing to do the job. Hopefully, the cost will be within reason as they haven't given me a price yet.Thanks for the compliment, and yes I had my 71 at Wings Field
Let me know the next time you will have your car out I'd like to see it.
A few shots of my handy work
WB
Instructor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 229
Likes: 0
From: Oreland PA
this is the best picture of my car that I have right now. Right now it's sitting in the garage with the engine apart. It started out as a simple detail of the motor and next thing you know i need a rad support, radiator blah blah blah. And since it's this far apart.....well you know the story. You may know the other car in the picture.
Instructor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 229
Likes: 0
From: Oreland PA
