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While removing the interior pillar posts and t-top trim on my 71', I found much to my dismay that the entire upper portion of the windshield has rusted away. The rust goes from corner to corner and approx. 6' downward on the pillar posts. The rust is centered on the front portion of the frame where the windshield would lay flat. There are several smaller holes in the base that don't look too serious. Absent the rust, the back portion of the posts appear to be very solid.
I would assume that I would have to cut frame out about halfway down on the pillars and a portion of the t-top to replace it with a new frame unless someone has a better idea. Can someone point me where I could get a replacement frame to weld in or offer any suggestions to repair the problem.
I think Paragon and probably others sell different sections of windshield frames that you can have welded in place of the rotten sections.
I bought a good frame off of a wrecked car and had the bad parts cut off of mine and had new welded on. I welded right above the VIN plate.
Make sure you get the correct angles registered before cutting off the old frame. You might lay an angle finder on the windshield before cutting off the frame, then laying it back in there to get the correct angle for welding the new one in.
Ol Blue
I had the same problem in my '79. I took all the chrome,visors,t-framing and other pieces off, used a buffing wheel and buffed all rusted areas to clean bare metal,used naval jelly "rust inhibitor" on the areas and then used a good exterior metal primer.Mine was so bad the top framework was gone and i could clean all the rust inside the framing.After i was satisfied with that i then taped the underside of the framing with duct tape. I then took fiberglas resin mixed it in stages and poured it into the framing from the top and the duct tape prevented it from pouring through the screw holes etc throughout the framework.The only problem i had was i couldn't fill it all the way up solid as planned because the resin flowed down the inside of the pillar frame parallel with front windshield and dripped out the bottom into my floorboard. I had interior completely out so it didn't ruin carpet or anything but other than that it worked out great.While you are at it go ahead and take the outer front framework from around the exterior windshield and clean that up too. Like mine your car was a daily driver left out in weather etc. Also before i screwed my screws in holding visors and plastic trim i predrilled the existing holes 1/8" so the screws would tap in without alot of problems. When i pulled the duct tape off i didn't even have to buff any excess resin off to fit the trim.I am secure in the thought that i will never have anymore rust problems in that area and it is as strong or stronger than original.I also must say nothing on my car is original so originality means nothing to me.You may have a different attitude towards originality.
I had the same problem in my '79. I took all the chrome,visors,t-framing and other pieces off, used a buffing wheel and buffed all rusted areas to clean bare metal,used naval jelly "rust inhibitor" on the areas and then used a good exterior metal primer.Mine was so bad the top framework was gone and i could clean all the rust inside the framing.After i was satisfied with that i then taped the underside of the framing with duct tape. I then took fiberglas resin mixed it in stages and poured it into the framing from the top and the duct tape prevented it from pouring through the screw holes etc throughout the framework.The only problem i had was i couldn't fill it all the way up solid as planned because the resin flowed down the inside of the pillar frame parallel with front windshield and dripped out the bottom into my floorboard. I had interior completely out so it didn't ruin carpet or anything but other than that it worked out great.While you are at it go ahead and take the outer front framework from around the exterior windshield and clean that up too. Like mine your car was a daily driver left out in weather etc. Also before i screwed my screws in holding visors and plastic trim i predrilled the existing holes 1/8" so the screws would tap in without alot of problems. When i pulled the duct tape off i didn't even have to buff any excess resin off to fit the trim.I am secure in the thought that i will never have anymore rust problems in that area and it is as strong or stronger than original.I also must say nothing on my car is original so originality means nothing to me.You may have a different attitude towards originality.
That sounds like a terrible idea. Please, for your own safty, cut out the bad and weld in the good.
i am the first to admit it was an alternative method less desirable but it really turned out well. I would do it again given the same circumstance this time i would fill the pillar posts with foam insulation to prevent the resin from draining.In this particular circumstance the rust and deterioration was between visor blades.This type of repair is perfectly safe at a cost of about 24 oz of resin rather than purchasing fitting,replacing,alignment,welding of everything by a high dollar professional.My car was junk yard material when i got it and i am proud of it now.all done by me except prep and paint.I am not by any means wealthy like most of you.Took me 8 yrs to see this dream. Every aspect of my car is better than new that i addressed. safety wasn't sacrificed. I actually thought i had the framing full of resin until the next day i saw it on my floorboard, only then did i realize it obviously tapered from center "where i poured" to pillar post instead of filling solid as planned.