Control Arm Removal
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,321
Likes: 0
From: Reno NV
St. Jude Donor '08
Originally Posted by scottw
I just finished my front end rebuild a couple weeks ago. My problem was with the rear bolt. It was rusted inside the control arm. I used PB Blaster for about a week 3-4 times a day and an airgun. It eventually broke loose. If you can't get an airgun, breaker bar with additional steel tubing to give you more leverage. I had one on the driver's side also that I used heat on and it came right out.
Good luck.
Good luck.
www.kanolabs.com Aero koril. PB Blaster is JUNK. When I rebuilt the front and rear suspention on my vette I started out using PB blaster and liquid wrench and I couldnt get anything to budge without severe force being applied. I got a can of Kroil from my dad, put it on the ones I had left. Litterly 10 minutes and the whole thing was apart. Even unseized the trailing arm bolts (i still cut them out because the fenders were in the way).
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by 88'Cubka
www.kanolabs.com Aero koril. PB Blaster is JUNK. When I rebuilt the front and rear suspention on my vette I started out using PB blaster and liquid wrench and I couldnt get anything to budge without severe force being applied. I got a can of Kroil from my dad, put it on the ones I had left. Litterly 10 minutes and the whole thing was apart. Even unseized the trailing arm bolts (i still cut them out because the fenders were in the way).
Koril rocks. I heard of something else called seafoam I think that works great too.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Originally Posted by RGVette
By the way when you torch it you torch the surrounding shaft, right?, and not the bolt itsself?
Right - heat and expand the shaft.
The bolt will get hot too - but apply direct flame to shaft.
Trouble with large breaker bar here is access.
You need to use a LONG extension to get down at the bolt.
The extension (at least mine) started to twist under the heavy torque.
Easier to do with engine out and body removed.
I think seafoam is for "fogging" a motor for long term storage ... often done with boat motors.
Ahhhh ... I see they have a product called "Deep Creep".
Last edited by NHvette; Oct 16, 2006 at 06:32 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by NHvette
I think seafoam is for "fogging" a motor for long term storage ... often done with boat motors.
I think Seafoam is a brand that makes a lot of products. One of which I seem to remember being a penetrent.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 62,198
Likes: 1
From: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
I had the same problem.
The 5/8s bolts on the front side of the cross-shaft wouldnt come out.
I used a craftsman 1/2 inch breakerbar with an 8 foot peice of tubing to turn them.
The 5/8s bolts on the front side of the cross-shaft wouldnt come out.
I used a craftsman 1/2 inch breakerbar with an 8 foot peice of tubing to turn them.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by Guru_4_hire
I had the same problem.
The 5/8s bolts on the front side of the cross-shaft wouldnt come out.
I used a craftsman 1/2 inch breakerbar with an 8 foot peice of tubing to turn them.
The 5/8s bolts on the front side of the cross-shaft wouldnt come out.
I used a craftsman 1/2 inch breakerbar with an 8 foot peice of tubing to turn them.
Many times this will break it loose then you can go the other way
Seafoam Deep Creep works very well, much better than PB in my experiences
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by Bob Onit
Seafoam Deep Creep works very well, much better than PB in my experiences
Yeah, that's the stuff I was thinking of...Deep Creep. It goes uphill like many of the other great penetrants.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 62,198
Likes: 1
From: All humans are vermin in the eyes of Guru VA
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
Originally Posted by Bob Onit
It never hurts to try and tighten it first...Give it a good yank.
Many times this will break it loose then you can go the other way
Seafoam Deep Creep works very well, much better than PB in my experiences
Many times this will break it loose then you can go the other way
Seafoam Deep Creep works very well, much better than PB in my experiences
I had to turn it with the lever for about the first 1/3 of the bolts.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by Bob Onit
Sometimes snapped bolts are a blessing 
Sure beats wrestling with the threads for hours
Sure beats wrestling with the threads for hours
Yeah, I've had a few borken bolts that helped the project out, but if threads are stuck, I hate removing broken studs out of threaded bores. Sometimes you can't get a drill in where you're working to start the removal process. But yeah, I see your point.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,342
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by Durango_boy
Yeah, I've had a few borken bolts that helped the project out, but if threads are stuck, I hate removing broken studs
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by Bob Onit
Studs are a whole different story..... nobody wants to play the stud removal game..
My step Dad has an old Ford truck...it's a mutant beast, mixed with parts of old dump trucks and Int. school buses. Anyway, the 360 he has in it has had exhaust leaks it's entire life, and in the process of fixing said leak, he snapped two bolts off in the heads. On those engines the exhaust bolts thread at an upward angle, and with the engine in the truck, it's VERY hard to drill out the studs and chase the threads. I helped him with the project as he just didn't have the strength to hold the drill up at that angle enough to get a bite with the bit. I HATE drilling broken bolts. Sorry...hijacked.
