I'm removing the control arms on my 72 vette, I got one out but the second one's main bolt (there are three and I've taken out two) appears to be rusted tight so I can't get it out. Considering I am right next to the fuel line and pump, I'm fearful of heating it up too much with a flame of any sort. I've put PB blaster on it, but the position it is in I don't believe the PB blaster is getting soaked into the space.

Any suggestions, I'd really like to get it out to do the work on the control arm while it's off the car.

RGVette

 

Have you tried an impact wrench on it?

 

I only have a wratchet attachment to my compressor, I've tried that and it doesn't budge the bolt.

By the way I searched the forum for "Removing Stuck Bolts" and there is great advise in there that I and many of you can use to remove a stuck bolt.

 

Worst case, you remove the fuel lines and pump. Then torch the nut. It's a good time to change the old and cracked rubber fuel lines.

 

Impact wrench with impact sockets. Air is good if you have a decent-sized compressor. I have an electric one to use in those non-air locations. Cost about $70 at Wal-Mart.

 

Batman's correct, air is a great resource, and a good air gun is easy to get at Lowes, Home Depot, Wal-Mart, Ace, and so forth. It's either impact or heat...

 

www.kanolabs.com Aero Kroil + Impact

 

Not sure an impact wrench can fit in the space but I'm going to check that out. I had another bolt from the steering knuckle that wouldn't come out and I took it to a friends shop (did it for free) and he said he applied around 700 fot pounds to get it out after heating the surrounding area. Sounds like a lot, will a compressor and impact wrench put that much out?

 

I had the same problem taking apart the suspension on my old 74. Solution was to use a half inch breaker bar with some good quality half inch drive Craftsman sockets.

 

I have a 12 inch bar that is a 1/2 inch drive. I've been using that, but it won't budge. Or is a breaker bar longer or different than what I have?

Also it just dawned on me that the female companion that the bolt is going through has no threads. Would that mean I could use a puller or a pusher?

 

12''= Regular sized 1/2 inch ratchet. breaker bar will be 18+''. Just find a nice heavy walled pipe to slip over your bar. Very possible you break the head off. I HIGHLY suggest www.kanolabs.com Aero kroil. Much much better than PB blaster or other oils. Expensive for a reason and it doesn't take very much of it to work.

PS: You live anywhere near I-80? In a couple-four weeks I'm heading that direction for a job. I'd like to check our your project! If ya don't mind having a punk kid over. lol

 

Explain this a little bit please. The three bolts that hold up the cross bar all have a companion. The two to the front have a rectangle block with threaded holes. The back side that has a single large bolt has a nut on the bottom when you;re looking up, and the bolts threads down from above with nothing to hold it from spinning.

What is it that doesn't have any threads?

 

I was rebuilding another member's front suspension one day, when
I ran into the same issue. The large bolt for the lower control arm shaft
was rust-seized to the shaft itself. We tried many methods:
breaker bar (bent extensions), brass hammer (not a budge), and heat (still no-go).
These are the methods I would try first (and sounds like you did or will).

See all the smoke here :
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/pra4sun_01.jpg
It was fairly safe if the torch was pointed properly:
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/pra4sun_02.jpg

Finally, I decided to try using a 2-jaw gear puller to push the bolt up.
Sadly, the edges of the bracket are rounded enough that the puller would not grab.

Well, Dennis had to leave his vette with me that weekend.
I took some time that eve and built a little tool to help make the puller work.
It is basically a small rectangle of 3/8" steel with a foot welded to one
end and a stud on the other end. You lay the tool over the bolt head,
with the stud fitting into the bracket hole and the foot sitting on the
trailing edge of the bracket. Then, a gear puller hooks onto the tool
and the treaded rod of the puller is used to push the bolt through.
It took lots of pressure and hammering on the puller to get it moving,
but then worked it out slowly.

Keep at it with the ideas already presented ... might work loose.
If you reach your wits-end, then send me an email dave@NHvette.com .
I will let you borrow the tool I made ... if you promise to send it right back.

Damn ... just realized that I will never be able to use it on my vette with frame gussets.
http://nhvette.homeunix.com/ftp/in/front_gusset_07.jpg

 

Torch...torch...torch...

 

Funny ... I actually had the same deal on one of the steering knuckle bolts.
I broke my nice Craftsman 6-point 5/8" socket when I slipped
the pipe over the ratchet for more torque. Finally got it with
an impact socket.

 

I think I'm going to try get a 6 point impact socket because the eight or sixteen or whatever it is socket I have doesn't seem to be grabbing well enough for me to apply the pressure and do the extension for more torque. If that doesn't work I may be sending an e-mail to get the tool that allows the puller to latch onto.

By the way when you torch it you torch the surrounding shaft, right?, and not the bolt itsself?

I really appreciate, I've said it before and probably will again, the suggestions you all give on this forum.

OK, off to get an impact socket

 

How you described it is correct. The one I have already taken out on the other side is just like that.

 

Buy an impact socket set and a long breaker bar. An 18" breaker bar is always handy, but you may want to get a 24" for this job. Chances are this will not be the only time you get to use it. The breaker bar does one job and does it much better than a rachet. The nice thing about the breaker bar is you don't have to exert has much body force to break something lose.
Of course for the real stubborn stuff, an impact gun is your best friend.

 

Impact sockets + very long breaker bar + 500 lbs of arm torque = END OF LIFE FOR STUBORN NUTS AND BOLTS.

 

I just finished my front end rebuild a couple weeks ago. My problem was with the rear bolt. It was rusted inside the control arm. I used PB Blaster for about a week 3-4 times a day and an airgun. It eventually broke loose. If you can't get an airgun, breaker bar with additional steel tubing to give you more leverage. I had one on the driver's side also that I used heat on and it came right out.
Good luck.