Changing a Auto to a Manual your help
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,876
Likes: 1
From: Jersey Shore Exit 98
Changing a Auto to a Manual your help
I know I read this before but could find the thread. How hard is it to chg an auto to a 4sp car. Other then buy the 4sp do I need a donna car to get the hardware out of like pedals, linkage etc. and is it a easy swap. What needs to be done to the engine, carb etc. Do I need a new bell housing? & last what kind of money are we talking about here?
Thanks
Jim
PS the reason is I see more good buys on old auto vette's then 4sp
vette's and I maybe buy a auto but would want to chg to 4sp
Thanks
Jim
PS the reason is I see more good buys on old auto vette's then 4sp
vette's and I maybe buy a auto but would want to chg to 4sp
Instructor
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 154
Likes: 0
From: NJ
Jim, I'm in the process of changing a 79 auto to a 4 speed. Bring your check book. Keisler and others sell complete kits with 5 and 6 speed options that are expensive. I picked up a completely rebuilt Saginaw from a circle track racing company in Wisconsin for under $500. You can specify the gearing and the internals are hardened and clearenced for racing purposes. That was the least of the cost. You then need all the other stuff that will run around another grand or so. Then's there is all the work. I think it's worth it.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,876
Likes: 1
From: Jersey Shore Exit 98
Originally Posted by problemenko
Jim, I'm in the process of changing a 79 auto to a 4 speed. Bring your check book. Keisler and others sell complete kits with 5 and 6 speed options that are expensive. I picked up a completely rebuilt Saginaw from a circle track racing company in Wisconsin for under $500. You can specify the gearing and the internals are hardened and clearenced for racing purposes. That was the least of the cost. You then need all the other stuff that will run around another grand or so. Then's there is all the work. I think it's worth it.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,841
Likes: 3
From: Halifax, NS, Canada
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Batman is changing his '77 auto to a manual, a T5 I think, and he just found his pedals on Ebay. He's getting it done pretty cheap minus the cost of the manual chosen. I think the car is already set up for it minus the linkages and pedals. Another cool idea when doing this swap is a hydraulic shift assist. Do a search and you'll find a lot of cool info on this.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 4,876
Likes: 1
From: Jersey Shore Exit 98
Originally Posted by Binnie77
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville Tennessee
I swapped my 79 auto to a T5 5 speed overdrive for $1,200.00. I went with a hydraulic clutch which is easier to install and a lot smoother and lighter than one with linkage. I would not hesitate to do it again! It is the best mod I have done to my 79!
Bernie
Bernie
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Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by BerniesVette
I swapped my 79 auto to a T5 5 speed overdrive for $1,200.00. I went with a hydraulic clutch which is easier to install and a lot smoother and lighter than one with linkage. I would not hesitate to do it again! It is the best mod I have done to my 79!
Bernie
Bernie
Thanks for all the info Bernie. I hope you don't mind me copying all the info, pics, and links. I have it all archived away for a future swap. I know using just the info from this thread that ANYONE can do a hyd clutch swap painlessly. Thanks so much man.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 2,116
Likes: 156
From: Mid West
Cruise-In III Veteran
I did it to my 76. If your car is after 75, you'll have to cut the steel tranny hump. I purchased the factory lower rubber boot that seals off the interior below the center console, and made a small patch panel to make it fit correct. Also, you'll have to install the clutch pedal. This can be done without removing the dash, but it's not fun ... you have to remove the steering column, several brackets, and remove the whole brake assembly out below the dash (took me a day to get it out and back in with the new pedals).
It definetely is worth the work, but if you go with the mechanical linkage here is a few tips that really helps the factory clutch linkage out: 1) get the Mr. Gasket chrome moly push rod #2478 2) install polyurethane motor mounts 3) if you want better pedal spacing, get good aftermarket pedals. The polyurethane mounts help because they have to react the force of the clutch on a mechanical linkage and the stiffer mounts improve the feel and reduce the movement in the linkage.
Other parts you'll need: bellhousing, center console plate, and you'll probably have to modify your crossmember.
It definetely is worth the work, but if you go with the mechanical linkage here is a few tips that really helps the factory clutch linkage out: 1) get the Mr. Gasket chrome moly push rod #2478 2) install polyurethane motor mounts 3) if you want better pedal spacing, get good aftermarket pedals. The polyurethane mounts help because they have to react the force of the clutch on a mechanical linkage and the stiffer mounts improve the feel and reduce the movement in the linkage.
Other parts you'll need: bellhousing, center console plate, and you'll probably have to modify your crossmember.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,125
Likes: 15
From: Columbia Missouri
Originally Posted by BerniesVette
Durango,
That is what the forum is for. If you have done it, help someone who hasn't. I'm just passing on all the help I have received!
Bernie
That is what the forum is for. If you have done it, help someone who hasn't. I'm just passing on all the help I have received!
Bernie
I know what you mean. I have about five papers I want to write, detailing all themods I have done and how I did it. Then when someone asks all I have to do is post the paper, and give them the help without a lot of searching and mistake making.