Help picking 383 engine parts!!!!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 407
Likes: 11
From: Freedom Pa
Help picking 383 engine parts!!!!
Hi, I am going to try to put a 383 sbc together. I have a unmolested 350 4 bolt block with a casting number 3970010. I am thinking of this stuff....what do you think?
Eagle 3.75 Forged Lightweight Crank #4350375057LW
Scat Pro Comp 6" I-beam Rods with 7/16" Cap screws
Calico CT-1 Treated Bearings
Childs & Alberts ZGS Rings
AFR Competition 195cc Heads
I am at a loss of what pistons to run, I just want to run Premium gas............any help?
Also, I don't know anything about Dampners, I think I want to go a little lighter than stock.
I'm going to run a smaller Solid Rollercam in the .225-.240 range.
This engine is going to be a street engine & I do understand the consequenses & maintance that goes into the Solid Roller. Thanks!
Eagle 3.75 Forged Lightweight Crank #4350375057LW
Scat Pro Comp 6" I-beam Rods with 7/16" Cap screws
Calico CT-1 Treated Bearings
Childs & Alberts ZGS Rings
AFR Competition 195cc Heads
I am at a loss of what pistons to run, I just want to run Premium gas............any help?
Also, I don't know anything about Dampners, I think I want to go a little lighter than stock.
I'm going to run a smaller Solid Rollercam in the .225-.240 range.
This engine is going to be a street engine & I do understand the consequenses & maintance that goes into the Solid Roller. Thanks!
Last edited by alnukem; Oct 15, 2006 at 09:03 AM.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,883
Likes: 124
From: Lubbock TX
SRP makes some good reverse dome pistons that should put your compression ratio where it needs to be.
Out of curiosity, why a solid roller? They're generally considered all-out and pretty extreme and the cam duration numbers you're looking at won't let the engine get to the operating range where a solid roller will really shine. I don't understand why you want to go thru the PITA of a solid roller while running duration numbers that are easily attainable with a good hydraulic roller with MUCH less trouble and maintenance.
Out of curiosity, why a solid roller? They're generally considered all-out and pretty extreme and the cam duration numbers you're looking at won't let the engine get to the operating range where a solid roller will really shine. I don't understand why you want to go thru the PITA of a solid roller while running duration numbers that are easily attainable with a good hydraulic roller with MUCH less trouble and maintenance.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 407
Likes: 11
From: Freedom Pa
I read about those & they said they use a alloy that doesn't expand that much, might be good for what I want. And, I don't know if it's smarter to run a small cc head & reverse domes or to run a larger cc head & flat tops. I think I can get away with flat tops. It seems like the solid roller give you a wider power range by about 500 rpm. I want something that runs a little better than normal. And, I don't mind checking it, I think sometimes I don't know until I have been there! Thanks.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,883
Likes: 124
From: Lubbock TX
Smaller chamber and a reverse dome is the better way to go.
You might think about a solid flat tappet cam as well - they rev very well and are less maintanenance than solid rollers and you still get that sewing machine clackety clack that tells the world you're running a solid tappet.
You might think about a solid flat tappet cam as well - they rev very well and are less maintanenance than solid rollers and you still get that sewing machine clackety clack that tells the world you're running a solid tappet.
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Originally Posted by L88Plus
Out of curiosity, why a solid roller? They're generally considered all-out and pretty extreme and the cam duration numbers you're looking at won't let the engine get to the operating range where a solid roller will really shine. I don't understand why you want to go thru the PITA of a solid roller while running duration numbers that are easily attainable with a good hydraulic roller with MUCH less trouble and maintenance.
Originally Posted by L88Plus
Smaller chamber and a reverse dome is the better way to go.
Last edited by 63mako; Oct 15, 2006 at 12:10 PM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 407
Likes: 11
From: Freedom Pa
Yeah, that sounds like the way. I could probably have the heads milled a little bit & get a little more compression. I wonder if the Mahle Pistons could be ceramic coated or would the finish they have on them be difficult to get off? Probably both things would not be worth it though?????
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Originally Posted by alnukem
Yeah, that sounds like the way. I could probably have the heads milled a little bit & get a little more compression. I wonder if the Mahle Pistons could be ceramic coated or would the finish they have on them be difficult to get off? Probably both things would not be worth it though?????
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Originally Posted by alnukem
So, your running a 383?
Last edited by 63mako; Oct 15, 2006 at 10:24 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,883
Likes: 124
From: Lubbock TX
That's the same train of thought I used - flat tops with larger chambers - but my engine builder did back-go-back tests and picked up about 12hp from going with the smaller chamber and reverse dome. He said something about the shallower chamber unshrouding the valves better. I don't think it's an item that's worth losing sleep over, though. Good luck, 383's can be made to increase the pucker factor many times over!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 2,529
Likes: 27
From: Auburndale Florida
2025 C2 of the Year ('64-'66) Finalist - Unmodified
St. Jude Donor '03-'05-'06-'07-'09
Have to rebuild my all original 108 K 72 Vert. Planning on a Scat or Eagle 383 rotating assembly....lots of torgue.....which is great for my TH400 and 308 rear grear.....
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 407
Likes: 11
From: Freedom Pa
Very Cool! 63 Mako, what's your machine shop bill going to be? Also, I think I know what deck height is, but, is "zero" deck height like a blueprinted number that production blocks are always over on?
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,883
Likes: 124
From: Lubbock TX
I used some 12cc or so dish pieces with 62cc chambers, hydraulic roller 230/238 with TFS heads. Pulled like a mule! The vette is getting a big block, though - 3.75" stroke, 4.600" bore for 499 cubes with a 264/270 @ .050 solid roller and 320cc Pro Topline aluminum heads. That's where the "L88Plus" comes from - same stroke, same .050 numbers on the cam and aluminum heads, all similar to what is arguably the most famous and revered engine ever dropped between the frame rails of any Chevy. Other than that, mine is an aftermarket monster all the way. BOOOOYAAAAAY!!!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 407
Likes: 11
From: Freedom Pa
Sounds like a big improvement! I'm kinda excited going from a 190 hp 350, I think it will be a major improvement, everybody seems to like the 383 on the street. Thanks for you're help.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,631
Likes: 293
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Modified
here's what i'm building right now........clearancing is pretty time consuming.....but i'm learning alot......hope this helps.......
scat 9000 crank
scat 5.7 forged rods
SP hypereu. pistons
clevite bearing
brodix IK200 aluminum heads
edelbrock RPM intake
750 holley carb
10.4:1 compression
-will be internally balanced
extreme energy comp cam
dur 284/296
lift .507/.510
2300-6500 rpm range
scat 9000 crank
scat 5.7 forged rods
SP hypereu. pistons
clevite bearing
brodix IK200 aluminum heads
edelbrock RPM intake
750 holley carb
10.4:1 compression
-will be internally balanced
extreme energy comp cam
dur 284/296
lift .507/.510
2300-6500 rpm range
Race Director
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 10,674
Likes: 122
From: Millington Illinois
St. Jude Donor '08-'09
Originally Posted by alnukem
Very Cool! 63 Mako, what's your machine shop bill going to be? Also, I think I know what deck height is, but, is "zero" deck height like a blueprinted number that production blocks are always over on?
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 161
Likes: 0
From: Yorkville IL
Some nice combos and good choices.
When I did the 383 in the camaro, I used the following:
Scat 9000 nod iron crank
scat 6" 7/16" capscrew I-Beam Rods
SRP FORGED d-dish pistons
Speed Pro 1/16 1/16 3/16 moly rings
The speed pro pistons are lil jewels at a great price. They only wieghed 404 grams, and use VERY tight clearances) for a forged piston.
This was all an internal balance type assembly which I had my machinist balance. VERY happy with the engine.
When I did the 383 in the camaro, I used the following:
Scat 9000 nod iron crank
scat 6" 7/16" capscrew I-Beam Rods
SRP FORGED d-dish pistons
Speed Pro 1/16 1/16 3/16 moly rings
The speed pro pistons are lil jewels at a great price. They only wieghed 404 grams, and use VERY tight clearances) for a forged piston.
This was all an internal balance type assembly which I had my machinist balance. VERY happy with the engine.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
My advice is to buy a rotating kit. That way you don't have to think about piston skirts clearing the crank throws. You don't have to think about cussing when your high ZUPE main or rod bearings don't fit the crank radius's.
It's also kind of stupid to build a 383 when a 396 cost the same. Out on the 1/4 mile equally built 383 vs 396 is generally about .2 seconds and 2-3 car lengths. At the all Vette drags hot street 383s are usually about 11.70's where the 396s are 11.50's
195cc heads other than the new higher CFM AFR are kind of smallish on 383+ ci motors.
You cam determines your compression ratio. Sub 232 degrees intake max of 10.7 with aluminum heads and SR cam. My present 383 is 11.24 compression and runs better than most peoples 383.
It's also kind of stupid to build a 383 when a 396 cost the same. Out on the 1/4 mile equally built 383 vs 396 is generally about .2 seconds and 2-3 car lengths. At the all Vette drags hot street 383s are usually about 11.70's where the 396s are 11.50's
195cc heads other than the new higher CFM AFR are kind of smallish on 383+ ci motors.
You cam determines your compression ratio. Sub 232 degrees intake max of 10.7 with aluminum heads and SR cam. My present 383 is 11.24 compression and runs better than most peoples 383.