nose sag
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
nose sag
I have a 1980 vette, the front end seems to be sagging at the nose. The back of the doors meet the rear of the car perfect, however at the front of the door and the fender the gap is wider at the top than at the bottom. At the hood and fender the gap is also excessive (about 1/16 of an inch). Can the bolts on the front frame section be loosed (and/ or shimmed) and a hydraulic jack used to raise the nose of the car to tighten these door and hood gaps?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
nose sag
I have checked the radiator core support, bird cage, and frame, there is no rust on my car. I am thinking that if I lift the front just a bit, I think every thing will fall into place because it is so close now. I just want it perfect. thanks guys
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Lifting the nose will do nothing to align the door edges.
The fenders are firmly bonded to the firewall/birdcage.
You CAN add some body shims at the #4 and #1 body mounts to try and close
the top of the door openning a bit, but not much.
The top door openning problems are usually caused by rust on the
windshield frame ... under the corner of the fender.
It is hidden and remains unseen until the fender is removed.
Perhaps yours is just in need of a door adjustment to split the difference front-to-rear.
The fenders are firmly bonded to the firewall/birdcage.
You CAN add some body shims at the #4 and #1 body mounts to try and close
the top of the door openning a bit, but not much.
The top door openning problems are usually caused by rust on the
windshield frame ... under the corner of the fender.
It is hidden and remains unseen until the fender is removed.
Perhaps yours is just in need of a door adjustment to split the difference front-to-rear.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,752
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
Originally Posted by NHvette
Lifting the nose will do nothing to align the door edges.
The fenders are firmly bonded to the firewall/birdcage.
You CAN add some body shims at the #4 and #1 body mounts to try and close
the top of the door openning a bit, but not much.
The top door openning problems are usually caused by rust on the
windshield frame ... under the corner of the fender.
It is hidden and remains unseen until the fender is removed.
Perhaps yours is just in need of a door adjustment to split the difference front-to-rear.
The fenders are firmly bonded to the firewall/birdcage.
You CAN add some body shims at the #4 and #1 body mounts to try and close
the top of the door openning a bit, but not much.
The top door openning problems are usually caused by rust on the
windshield frame ... under the corner of the fender.
It is hidden and remains unseen until the fender is removed.
Perhaps yours is just in need of a door adjustment to split the difference front-to-rear.
Over the years, the front end body/bumper supports may move, causing a big gap at the top of the door. Yes, the fenders bond indirectly to the bird-cage, through plenum extensions, etc. This ares will flex. Just jack up your 'Vette under the trans. X-member and watch the gap get bigger. If the fender was bonded directly to the steel bird-cage, this would not happen. We took over a restoration on a '69 that had the body off the frame for a year or so. The front had drooped 4 inches at the front, and you could get your fingers in between the door and the fender. Take your time, put the jack under the core support or front frame cross-bar. Loosen up all related hardware. Do small moves until you see progress, don't go crazy here.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Big (politely also),
The fenders are firmly bonded to the firewall, which is
firmly rivetted to the BC. Any movement here suggests
that the attachment of the fenders or firewall have been compromised.
You know as well as most here that if the body droops
when jacked on the frame, then there is rot in the frame and maybe BC.
Mine does not move a single millimeter when jacked up/down at any spot on the frame.
Well, good luck to the original poster that will attempt to bend his
fiberglass back into place.
The fenders are firmly bonded to the firewall, which is
firmly rivetted to the BC. Any movement here suggests
that the attachment of the fenders or firewall have been compromised.
You know as well as most here that if the body droops
when jacked on the frame, then there is rot in the frame and maybe BC.
Mine does not move a single millimeter when jacked up/down at any spot on the frame.
Well, good luck to the original poster that will attempt to bend his
fiberglass back into place.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 5,752
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
Originally Posted by NHvette
Big (politely also),
The fenders are firmly bonded to the firewall, which is
firmly rivetted to the BC. Any movement here suggests
that the attachment of the fenders or firewall have been compromised.
You know as well as most here that if the body droops
when jacked on the frame, then there is rot in the frame and maybe BC.
Mine does not move a single millimeter when jacked up/down at any spot on the frame.
Well, good luck to the original poster that will attempt to bend his
fiberglass back into place.
The fenders are firmly bonded to the firewall, which is
firmly rivetted to the BC. Any movement here suggests
that the attachment of the fenders or firewall have been compromised.
You know as well as most here that if the body droops
when jacked on the frame, then there is rot in the frame and maybe BC.
Mine does not move a single millimeter when jacked up/down at any spot on the frame.
Well, good luck to the original poster that will attempt to bend his
fiberglass back into place.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 187
Likes: 0
nose sag
i have raised all 4 corners many times and nothing changes. there are no rust or body mount damage metal or rubber. garadge kept. (past 2 owners as well). i am thinking that after 26 years gravity took its toll, my car is a 1980;4 spd;red on red. so far original. thanx guys.
