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You will not have problems or lack brake power.
With performance friction pads repeated stops from 100 mph are absolutely
No problem.
You do need hydroboost . It is the single best mod you can make to any stock setup.
100% Brakes are just about the most omportant system on the car, considerign it's what stops you. Changing one or even most of the system when it fails is just halfing it. To do it right, some of the suspension has to be changed, as Norval said, it can affect the braking and degrade it effectivness. I too am a fan of the stock caliper. Very advanced for a car of that era, and it's still better than todays stock braking systems. Re-new everything and keep the car safe for another 10 years.
Yeah, Ok I now I need the hydroboost, but it looks like a Pain to install
It's not as bad as it sounds. The hardest part is finding or making the lines. A full kit is available from Hydrtechbraking.com. Talk to Paul, he'll get you set up with the best there is...a full bolt on kit with all the lines and fittings and instructions and tech support you could want. There are a lot of threads here for doing the Hydro upgrade, and a lot of people that have done the conversion that will be glad to help you.
It's not as bad as it sounds. The hardest part is finding or making the lines. A full kit is available from Hydrtechbraking.com. Talk to Paul, he'll get you set up with the best there is...a full bolt on kit with all the lines and fittings and instructions and tech support you could want. There are a lot of threads here for doing the Hydro upgrade, and a lot of people that have done the conversion that will be glad to help you.
www.hydratechbraking.com will hook you up with a full bolt-in package that takes less than a weekend, maybe less than a day depending how many trips you make to the beer fridge.
I have an extra hydro unit from a junk yard that I got right before I found someone parting out a 69 with a hydro unit from hydratechbraking. The unit from the yunkyard will require some modifications to the firewall (cutting hole to drop unit 1 inch to bolt up) and I'm not sure about the clevis rod & if there is a spacer needed b/w the unit and the MC. Durango boy did the install with a junkyard hydro so he would have a better idea, plus there are tons of install instructions on this forum. My forum inbox is full so please e-mail doogie1101@hotmail.com. I'll probably post on flebay in the next few months as I start cleaning out my pile of parts. Good luck.
What else is in that parts pile that may be of interest?
Honestly I have no idea what is in that pile. Everything that I pulled off my car and have replaced. Upper & lower original A-arms, springs, sway bars (front & rear), calipers, original early 68 steering box, original manual brake master cylinder, 9 leaf rear spring (shot), 68 original chrome exhaust tips, lots of engine parts. Original numbers matching big block heads, 396 crank, 67 vette big block aluminum intake, aftermarket pistons w/ connecting rods (fit 454 bored .60 over) along with other things that have been covered in my garage after working on 2 other vettes over the years (74 & 78).
One day I'll go thru the pile, take inventory and casting #'s and list them in the "4 sale section".
But right now I gotta get the underneath and interior of the body coated in that lizardskin heat/sound insualation. Unfortunately it has to be 60 degrees and this saturday is my only chance probably for the rest of the year and prep needs to be done prior. TIME CRUNCH!
But right now I gotta get the underneath and interior of the body coated in that lizardskin heat/sound insualation. Unfortunately it has to be 60 degrees and this saturday is my only chance probably for the rest of the year and prep needs to be done prior. TIME CRUNCH!
Wish I were closer...I'd love to help on that one.