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I think you mean amps on your meter. Check the alternator at any auto parts store. The voltage should not exceed 14.5. If it does, it means your regulator is out. The regulator is internal to the alternator. You can buy a rebuild kit that includes the diode bridge, regulator and brushes- some even come with bearings. The basic kit without the bearings costs less than $20 or you can buy a rebuilt alternator.
I admit I'm no expert, but I'm pretty sure the voltmeter reads voltage output of the alternator when the engine is running and voltage output of the battery when the engine is off. In any case, thank you for confirming that the voltage regulator is internal to my alternator. In earlier year Vettes I believe it was external.
Thanks again,
Chris
The 73 will have a so called amp meter. It is common for it to indicate a high amp reading if the battery is low and is in good condition. When the engine is first started the alternator socks it to the battery until it is fully charged and then falls back. If your meter falls back after a while to more normal levels there is probably nothing wrong. As suggested you should check the real voltage with a VOM and see what that is. It should be in the 13.5 to 14.5 range.
The 73 will have a so called amp meter. It is common for it to indicate a high amp reading if the battery is low and is in good condition. When the engine is first started the alternator socks it to the battery until it is fully charged and then falls back. If your meter falls back after a while to more normal levels there is probably nothing wrong. As suggested you should check the real voltage with a VOM and see what that is. It should be in the 13.5 to 14.5 range.
Car starts up fine and initial reading is normal. With engine running and when load is put on the alternator, such as air conditioner or heater, meter is nearly pegged to +40 on the voltmeter. At idle (700 rpm) the needle is sporadic on the positive side of the voltmeter.
Does your gauge say Volts or AMPs? Big difference. If your alternator was actually putting out 40+ volts you would have fried lights, radio, all kind of stuff. You should have an amp meter in that car.
Car starts up fine and initial reading is normal. With engine running and when load is put on the alternator, such as air conditioner or heater, meter is nearly pegged to +40 on the voltmeter. At idle (700 rpm) the needle is sporadic on the positive side of the voltmeter.
'73 has a gauge that measures amps, not volts. If with no load on the system it reads zero or close to zero, then that is normal.
The sporadic jumps while at idle are also normal.
A +40 amp load from the blower fan sounds too high. What does it read when you put on the headlights instead?
'73 has a gauge that measures amps, not volts. If with no load on the system it reads zero or close to zero, then that is normal.
The sporadic jumps while at idle are also normal.
A +40 amp load from the blower fan sounds too high. What does it read when you put on the headlights instead?
Thanks for helping me understand the difference between a voltmeter and an amp meter. I thought it would be the same as my C5 that is definitely a voltmeter guage.
Headlights also cause the needle to peg out to nearly +40 on the guage. Radio causes only a minor change. Would you agree that the internal regulator in my alt has gone bad or is going bad?
Thanks,
Chris
Definitely sounds like alternator is not working properly.
Easy test is to use a digital volt meter ... measure battery voltage
with engine off and running. Shoud be about 12v off and 14.5v running.
If not over 14v while running, something's wrong with alternator.
I would remove and take to a parts store that will test it for you.
If handy at all with tools - I would attempt to rebuild if bad.
If not handy ... trade her in for a new one (if bad).
It could also be your meter ... or perhaps battery is bad.
Definitely sounds like alternator is not working properly.
Easy test is to use a digital volt meter ... measure battery voltage
with engine off and running. Shoud be about 12v off and 14.5v running.
If not over 14v while running, something's wrong with alternator.
I would remove and take to a parts store that will test it for you.
If handy at all with tools - I would attempt to rebuild if bad.
If not handy ... trade her in for a new one (if bad).
It could also be your meter ... or perhaps battery is bad.
Bat is good and gauge is good. Internal voltage regulator in the alt is bad, so I ordered a new (reman) alt from Ecklers. I'll have it in by Sat morning and she'll be back on the road this weekend.
Thanks