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The local Chevy dealer did the rear main in my 1980 a few months ago under warranty as some of you may remember. It only took 4 return trips for them to do it right! I think that they had Bubba from the lube dept doing the work. At least my new crate motor had 4 oil changes in the first few hundred miles...
I was able to find a one piece Oil pan gasket... it is teflon though. Is this good? Will it seal without using a sealer? The cork one is not one piece, and they didn't say anything about having a rubber one.
Additionally I am getting new valve covers... obviosly I will be replacing the Gaskets... Should I go with rubber or Cork??
Fellpro makes the 1 piece rubber oil pan gasket. I purchased mine from summit racing. I don't know anything about the teflon..who makes it?
I used cork my valve covers with not problems as long as the valve covers are strait. I have heard that the rubber valve cover gaskets are good, but I have no experience with them.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I don't know if it was mentioned during the discussion, but some recommend offsetting the ends of the seal just a little to help prevent leaks where the seal ends come together. My rear main seal is leaking and I am going to try and tackle this very project this winter. I know they make an offset seal for these engines but do they make one that has a double lip? That would seem to be even better to me. One more thing, when the seal goes in, do you need to lube the rubber to keep it from being damaged during the install?
I don't know if it was mentioned during the discussion, but some recommend offsetting the ends of the seal just a little to help prevent leaks where the seal ends come together. My rear main seal is leaking and I am going to try and tackle this very project this winter. I know they make an offset seal for these engines but do they make one that has a double lip? That would seem to be even better to me. One more thing, when the seal goes in, do you need to lube the rubber to keep it from being damaged during the install?
Good question... I was not able to find one that was "offset"... they didn't even know what I was talking about when I asked. So does anyone know where I can get this? I do believe that all rear main seals are double lipped though.
As for your second question... I think I can answer this... I read in the directions earlier in this Thread that you should use motor oil as the lub...
Yea I am only going to replace the seal... I will inpect stuff in there while I'm in there, but only make replacements if needed or if I see crap in the bottom of the oil plan.
How high do I need to get the Car?
And I plan on replacing the Oil Pan Gasket with a new one piece... should the Oil Pan Gasket go on Dry or should I be using some kind of Sealer?
I have a new (obviously) one pc felpro pan seal kit # OS 34510 T, see it at Summit.com for kit contents (75-85 small block) $25.00
NAPA for the seal. Most auto parts stores will have them.
Felpro for the one piece gasket sets. Sold at places like summit racing(order online). See previous replies to your post. I am sure that you can find them from other parts houses on line as well.
NAPA for the seal. Most auto parts stores will have them.
Felpro for the one piece gasket sets. Sold at places like summit racing(order online). See previous replies to your post. I am sure that you can find them from other parts houses on line as well.
Got my seal and felpro one piece gasket set from Autozone.
On page 62 of GM's 2003 Performance Parts book they have a rear oil seal that is for Chevy V8's that has the part number #10121044. It is a two piece seal designed to tolerate higher engine operating tempertures and has more face pressure than other seals for superior leak protection. This seal is used by most NASCAR teams. All this is from the parts book. This could solve your problem.
Lucky76 is correct. The mating ends of the seal is offset from the mating surfaces of the bearing caps. In other words they do not line up. Also be sure you do not install the seal backwards. From the pic you can see that the seal is not symmetrical.
I changed the rear main on my friend's 427 about 2 years ago. The half in the bearing main was no problem but the half in the block was stuck rather well. I used a narrow oil dipstick (extra laying around) to drive between the seal and the block (the seal has a metal frame). The seal rolled right out after that. After I had changed the seal he still had some leakage (very minor compared to before) and was given a tip to dab some sealant on the ends of the seal before installing the bearing cap.
Which one piece oil pan gasket did you get? I think felpro gaskets usually have a small piece of paper in the packaging that tell you how to install the gasket. If the paper doesn't say to use any, then don't. As someone mentioned, you might use a dab here or there to help hold it in place. I'm not sure if I'm familiar with the teflon gasket you have.
Which one piece oil pan gasket did you get? I think felpro gaskets usually have a small piece of paper in the packaging that tell you how to install the gasket. If the paper doesn't say to use any, then don't. As someone mentioned, you might use a dab here or there to help hold it in place. I'm not sure if I'm familiar with the teflon gasket you have.
I didn't get the teflon one... I got a one-piece rubber gasket. I don't want leaks, and I need to know whether or not I should use sealer.
I need help in locating the seal removal/instalation tool.... I can find one anywhere!
Also opinions on whether or not I should use a sealer with the one piece oil pn gasket.
Thanks!
The installation tool should have come with the new seal...It is used kind of like a shoehorn to guide the seal into the bearing cap so the the sharp edge of the bearing cap doesn't cut the seal.
Removal of the old seal is done by pushing up against the end of the seal with a punch or something like a punch. Once the seal starts to come out the other side of the bearing cap, then grap it with a pliers and pull it the rest of the way out. Be careful not to knick or scratch the bearing cap while pushing out the old seal.
Do you have a chiltons repair manual, or any repair manual for your vette? This is a pretty standard routine covered in them. they will even show the picture of the install tool(and how to make one if you don't have one).